[like finding a pubic hair in your coke[/QUOTE]
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Whats your take on Forged vs. Cast Pistons
- Thread starter hondacr500af
- Start date
[/QUOTE]
Ok so that was a reference to The Anita Hill ,Clarence Thomas thing, that I twisted to make a point.....you should remember, we earlier established your not that much younger than me.
Ok so that was a reference to The Anita Hill ,Clarence Thomas thing, that I twisted to make a point.....you should remember, we earlier established your not that much younger than me.[/QUOTE]
I have a wiseco forged in my RM, i also have a sleeved cylinder. I have never had any issues with this setup. I also know someone who has the opposite setup in their rm250, coated cylinder and cast piston, the setup is not what matters, you can have cast or forged and sleeved or coated.
no bike will ever cold seize if your piston to wall clearance is set properly, and there needs to be different clearances for cast and forged pistons.
On another note: do not trust any shop when i comes to setting the clearances properly, always take the time to properly measure with a bore gauge after any cylinder service.
no bike will ever cold seize if your piston to wall clearance is set properly, and there needs to be different clearances for cast and forged pistons.
On another note: do not trust any shop when i comes to setting the clearances properly, always take the time to properly measure with a bore gauge after any cylinder service.
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Not everyone...
1) Has a bore gage at their disposal
2) Knows how to use it
3) Knows how to read it
If "your shop" can't be trusted then they ought not be in business...
you can rent them at autozone and oreilly, there are instructions on how to use them in the box. Its not always about trusting your shop, its a measure twice cut once thing. I know of 2 people who got their cylinders back from the shop, and the first run their engines cold seized, one of them use to be on this forum, but he has disappeared.
That's when you go back to that shop and show them the results of their work... again, if they don't stand behind their work they don't belong in business.
As for using a bore gage, it's not a pick up and read the directions and use it with positive results by anyone... that is a precision inspection tool that (if used incorrectly) can cause problems ... the same as what was experienced from the shop... Could be THEY TOO didn't know how to use the tool, misread it, didn't have it centered, left right/up down... "0", etc... now if the bore gage you are speaking of is the same as what I am familiar with, you have to have a standard for setting it to so you know how many revolutions it dial needs to go and where to set zero.
Trust me, I've been in the mfg biz a long time and know of machinists who "SAY" they know what they're doing but really don't... and they have years of experience. So Joe Public, renting a tool having never used it before NOR trained on it (to me) is LESS trustworthy than letting a shop do it... at least you "should" have some type of gauranty from the shop. if you falk up measuring it then you have yourself to blame and cost to burden!
JMHO... !
i dont know if the shops stood by their work or not, i was just saying that in both cases the shop made mistakes causing the bike to seize. thats allThat's when you go back to that shop and show them the results of their work... again, if they don't stand behind their work they don't belong in business.
As for using a bore gage, it's not a pick up and read the directions and use it with positive results by anyone... that is a precision inspection tool that (if used incorrectly) can cause problems ... the same as what was experienced from the shop... Could be THEY TOO didn't know how to use the tool, misread it, didn't have it centered, left right/up down... "0", etc... now if the bore gage you are speaking of is the same as what I am familiar with, you have to have a standard for setting it to so you know how many revolutions it dial needs to go and where to set zero.
Trust me, I've been in the mfg biz a long time and know of machinists who "SAY" they know what they're doing but really don't... and they have years of experience. So Joe Public, renting a tool having never used it before NOR trained on it (to me) is LESS trustworthy than letting a shop do it... at least you "should" have some type of gauranty from the shop. if you falk up measuring it then you have yourself to blame and cost to burden!
JMHO... !
I agree with what your saying, the only thing I would add though is, as I've said before in other threads, if you dont know how to do something, you can send it to a shop,and pay them for they're experience and knowledge, or you can do it your self and build your own knowledge base,because the ones who call them selves experts didn't know how to do what they do at one time. nothing wrong with doing it yourself, making mistakes and learning so you don't have to depend on someone else the next time, as long as your willing to pay for your own mistakes, when(not if) you make them.That's when you go back to that shop and show them the results of their work... again, if they don't stand behind their work they don't belong in business.
As for using a bore gage, it's not a pick up and read the directions and use it with positive results by anyone... that is a precision inspection tool that (if used incorrectly) can cause problems ... the same as what was experienced from the shop... Could be THEY TOO didn't know how to use the tool, misread it, didn't have it centered, left right/up down... "0", etc... now if the bore gage you are speaking of is the same as what I am familiar with, you have to have a standard for setting it to so you know how many revolutions it dial needs to go and where to set zero.
Trust me, I've been in the mfg biz a long time and know of machinists who "SAY" they know what they're doing but really don't... and they have years of experience. So Joe Public, renting a tool having never used it before NOR trained on it (to me) is LESS trustworthy than letting a shop do it... at least you "should" have some type of gauranty from the shop. if you falk up measuring it then you have yourself to blame and cost to burden!
JMHO... !
I believe you are wrong. If you are that confident in your piston to cylinder clearances. The next time you ride don't warm up the engine. Just start and go. Rest assured it will cold seize even if you have perfect clearances.
i do all the time, i start, less than 30 seconds of run time and im going full blast..I believe you are wrong. If you are that confident in your piston to cylinder clearances. The next time you ride don't warm up the engine. Just start and go. Rest assured it will cold seize even if you have perfect clearances.
Are you sure you have a forged piston? Or maybe your clearances are so far out it wouldn't matter.
My bike does not get as hot or rev as far as you bike. I have had two cold seizures. Both with wiseco's. I thought the bike was ready well it was not.
It's a wiseco .20 over piston, putting my bore at 54.5 mm, clearances are still tight, bike makes good compression.
well maybe you should verify that your clearances are actually in spec before you go do stuff like that?
and FYI https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/content/threads/87-88-rm125.3372/