Other KLX 650R No-start

should be able to run a fan. check the draw or hook one up to the pigtail powering the lights and see if the engine is still happy. you live where it is going to be needed would be my guess. maybe an inline fuse?
 
Some questions;

Okay, after getting the carb diaphragm and re-installing it all, I got it running. (Maybe I should start a new thread?)

1 - Do these things run really hot, like pistol hot? I had it idling in my garage for about 4-5 minutes trying to adjust the carb so it would stay running and just generally checking things over, and it was pouring into the overflow reservoir which at this point is just a bowl. I was also running the cooling fan at one point but it still filled the reservoir.
2 - So is it not recommended to let these things idle?
3 - How does one verify that the water pump is actually pumping?
4 - What is recommended for the air cleaner? This thing came with an aftermarket air filter with a bend, and a used O.E. one on eBay will run over $100.00.

If what is going on with the cooling system is normal, I will then have a bunch of questions about carb adjustments and tuning.

@ossagp - I ran the fan with an external power supply for the above - but the radiator has a thermo-switch, and I have a relay, wiring, and in-line fuse I can use. Just need to wire it up. Thanks for the response.

Attached is a photo of what I've got happening.
100_2588(2).JPG.
 

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I started my KLR today and it had been sitting for 5 days, it took just over 4mins for the fan to kick on, i idle about 1600 for warmups. it will do that all day, fan on without losing coolant. I am guessing a cap or other reason if your fan was on and it still boiled over.

So far it looks like a great deal for 400. just need to get it to where it is holding it's mud.
 
It's been a learning experience for sure.
Unfortunately I wasn't able to test the cap because I dont have an adapter that small, but she gets pistol hot. The coolant reservoir will be here in about a week so I probably wont do much with it until then except maybe get the fan wired in. I've got to order a few other things for it too, so I'll throw a radiator cap on the list as well.

I'm gonna see if I can get a video of it running though and post it here.
It's really noisy in the cam chain area and I would like to see what y'all think about it, see if it's 'normal' noisy...
 
Update:
Haven't gotten a video yet that I can show, but I measured the valve clearances today;
Spec : Intake .100 to .190 mm (.0039 to .0074 in.) Midpoint .145 mm / .0056 in.
Exhaust .150 to .240 mm (.0059 to .0094 in.) Midpoint .195 mm / .0076 in.

Actual : Intake (L) .004 (R) .009 in.
Exhaust (L) .005 (R) .010 in.

As you can see the left side intake is very close to the minimum tolerance, the right side intake is .002+ beyond the max tolerance.
The left side exhaust is below the minimum tolerance, and the right side is exhaust is just beyond the max tolerance.

Does anybody have any thoughts on these numbers? Would they cause excessive noise?

Attached is a pic of the cam chain as it sits currently.
Does it look weird, strange, or not right to anybody?
It doesn't look right to me. It doesn't look like it's fully sitting on the cam gears.
It makes me wonder if it has stretched, or if maybe it's a cheap Chinese after-market chain, or possibly the all-together wrong chain for the bike?
It is noisy, and when I installed the tensioner I used a screwdriver to push the ratcheting thing in 1 notch more than it did under it's own spring power, just to tighten it up.
I figured I would rather have a chain that was a bit to tight, than have it skip a tooth, which I have seen this thing do.

Also - I tested the cooling fan; it pulls approx. 3.3 amps at around 13.7 volts.
 

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Yeah those clearances are kind of all over the place alright. Seems it should not sag between cam gears and from what I can see in the pic that bolt head looks like it has taken a beating from something

kinda lines up with that gouge in the valve cover mating surface?
 
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The more I read this thread the more I'm convinced that the PO was just trying to throw it together as cheap as possible. If it were me I would strip it down and start from scratch.
 
Ah you've given your actual clearance values in .00" now I have to do math. From the looks of them you could do a little swapping around and get em more near the middle?
 
Didn't mean to make no-one do no math or nothin :-)
Shim thickness, inches;
LF Exh = .100
RF Exh =.093
LR Int = .098
RR Int = .093
 
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No matter which way I look at it those shims are just too big of increments to work with in any configuration. I guess you got that figured out already.
 
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