I miss read the title on the KLX
It's only been run long enough to verify a couple things then shut down, and I was probably being very generous when I said 3 minutes. And I've already been in contact with Krieger's Cam Chain Tensioners and may order their manual unit if this thing doesn't quiet down. I'll know more later today after I put the radiators and some coolant in. If I shortened the life of my water pump yesterday then...I'll live and learn and fork out the $$$ for a new pump.
Yep
I got my klr dirt cheap because a guy was convinced that his with 7200 on it was about to blow up because he didnt have the upgrade on it.
I'm not used to working on vehicles that use a liquid coolant and radiator without having either a gauge or idiot light to alert the operator of a too-hot condition. And this is an A-1 version. So how does one go about determining whether this bike is operating under normal temperature conditions?
When I had it running this past weekend for 2-3 minutes (after I installed the radiators and filled it with water), it puked all of the coolant out the radiator cap. Many times, in my years of automotive experience, this would indicate a head gasket failure, but I am fairly certain that this is not the case here because it appears the previous owner had installed a new one. So in this case I assumed this was due to air pockets since it had recently been all apart by the previous owner.
After letting it cool down and the above-mentioned 15 minutes of kicking it to try and re-start without success, I pulled the carb, and as of right now (and after a thorough and needed carb cleaning) I am awaiting a used eBay air cut-off diaphragm to be delivered so I can reassemble and try it all again. (I wasn't willing to spend $60.00 on a new one);
http://www.ebay.com/itm/302038533313?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT,
I am sure the carb cleaning/rebuild will help things, especially in regard to the running of the engine, but how will I know if the the cooling system is doing it's job if I don't have a gauge? And how should I proceed from here?
This cooling system is a bit of uncharted territory for me.
When I had it running this past weekend for 2-3 minutes (after I installed the radiators and filled it with water), it puked all of the coolant out the radiator cap. Many times, in my years of automotive experience, this would indicate a head gasket failure, but I am fairly certain that this is not the case here because it appears the previous owner had installed a new one. So in this case I assumed this was due to air pockets since it had recently been all apart by the previous owner.
After letting it cool down and the above-mentioned 15 minutes of kicking it to try and re-start without success, I pulled the carb, and as of right now (and after a thorough and needed carb cleaning) I am awaiting a used eBay air cut-off diaphragm to be delivered so I can reassemble and try it all again. (I wasn't willing to spend $60.00 on a new one);
http://www.ebay.com/itm/302038533313?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT,
I am sure the carb cleaning/rebuild will help things, especially in regard to the running of the engine, but how will I know if the the cooling system is doing it's job if I don't have a gauge? And how should I proceed from here?
This cooling system is a bit of uncharted territory for me.
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The radiator cap does one and only one thing. Maintains system pressure up to a certain rated psi, at which point it is designed to open and allow excess fluid to escape. This is merely a safety device for the system. It's normal for it to open and release fluid if you are in the slow stuff, clutching alot, and it FEELS hot.
When a cap goes bad, it typically opens too soon. I recommend replacing it if she pukes again after the carb cleaning. -BIG DAN
When a cap goes bad, it typically opens too soon. I recommend replacing it if she pukes again after the carb cleaning. -BIG DAN
As the pressure increases, a liquid is able to maintain a higher and higher temperature before changing state to a gas. This is why you want the system to pressurize to 14-18 psi. Effectively raises the boiling point of the water in your coolant.
The reason for the extended stove-top cooking times at higher elevation is due to the decrease in atmospheric pressure. The water is boiling at a lower temperature.
The reason for the extended stove-top cooking times at higher elevation is due to the decrease in atmospheric pressure. The water is boiling at a lower temperature.
well you said it passed your pressure test, so i am guessing like you, that the head gasket is ok. My Klr will boil fast if the fan isnt working. Just tossing that out there. My KLR has a temp gauge on it, and with a cap that holds 17 lbs. If you have a partsman at napa etc you can buy caps for cars that go right on, with a variety of pressures for way less than the K shop wants.
My bad; I neglected to mention that the radiator cap was off when it puked the coolant. I tried to put it back on in a semi-frenzy in order to keep it from spilling onto my garage floor, which it promptly did.
I'm still searching for an over-flow tank.
Since this thing doesn't use a t-stat or a fan its a bit puzzling to me...
I'm still searching for an over-flow tank.
Since this thing doesn't use a t-stat or a fan its a bit puzzling to me...
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The prior owner however sent me home with the right side radiator that uses a fan, and a fan. He said he wanted to incorporate it into the bike, even though this version doesn't use one and has no battery. So I have that option available, and I am thinking that I would like to wire it in if possible to the magneto and a switch, but that is secondary at this point I think...