Other KLX 650R No-start

I had a buddy back in college who not once, but twice, woke up drunk, didn't quite make it to the restroom, and pissed all over his girlfriends homework, books, bag, etc.
Needless to say she didn't stick around too long.
 
Okay, here is an update;
1st off - IMO, valve shims suck ass!
What a fargin stupid idea!
I much prefer the 10mm wrench and screwdriver method I'm used to with Jap cars..

So after mis-measuring and ordering the wrong shit 3 times ($80.00 worth of shims and 3 or so weeks of waiting for delivery), I am over it.
But I have a buddy that used to own a cycle repair shop (previously unknown to me) and he gave me a bunch of shims (K&L, and he gave them to me for free of course, go figure) and we fired it up yesterday.
It is still noisy, although better than before.
I have heard that these things we're noisy (although he didn't seem to think that it sounded that bad) but to me, it's still noisy. But it's definitely better now with the tighter shims in it.
Onwards...

It is running much richer now with the new air filter and (used) air cleaner, and the radiator cap didn't open to the overflow, but the overflow tank had a leak (used eBay) so I didn't let it run but a minute or two.
Tonight I re-welded the plastic over flow tank, so that should be good.

However, during this re-assembly process yesterday I found that the compression release spring on the exhaust cam had come off, so I naturally put it back on, and that was when we ran it.

But now today, I can barely kick it over.
Even though I kicked it for 15-20 minutes a few weeks ago, I dont have the leg to do this right now, so I am assuming that the spring fell off again, but I am not exactly sure how that decompression thing works at this moment.

Any advice would be much appreciated, as always.
 
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Okay, here is an update;
1st off - IMO, valve shims suck ass!
What a fargin stupid idea!
I much prefer the 10mm wrench and screwdriver method I'm used to with Jap cars..

So after mis-measuring and ordering the wrong shit 3 times ($80.00 worth of shims and 3 or so weeks of waiting for delivery), I am over it.
But I have a buddy that used to own a cycle repair shop (previously unknown to me) and he gave me a bunch of shims (K&L, and he gave them to me for free of course, go figure) and we fired it up yesterday.
It is still noisy, although better than before.
I have heard that these things we're noisy (although he didn't seem to think that it sounded that bad) but to me, it's still noisy. But it's definitely better now for sure.
Onwards...

It is running much richer now with the new air filter and (used) air cleaner, and the radiator cap didn't open to the overflow, but the overflow tank had a leak (used eBay) so I didn't let it run but a minute or two.
So tonight I re-welded the plastic over flow tank, so that is good.

During this re-assembly process yesterday I found that the compression release spring on the exhaust valve had come off, so I naturally put it back on, and that was when we ran it.

But now today, I can barely kick it over.
Even though I kicked it for 15-20 minutes a few weeks ago, I dont have the leg to do this right now, so I am assuming that the spring fell off again, but I am not exactly sure how that decompression thing works at this moment.

Any advice would be much appreciated, as always.

You're welcome.

http://www.cyclepedia.com/online-ma...s/kawasaki-klr600klr650-online-service-guide/
 
@Mihylo33,
Thank you for that link. I have saved it in my bookmarks for future reference. But it appears to be for the KLR, and my bike is a KLX, which has a totally different engine, with the chain drive on the left side. The "doohickey" that I keep hearing about doesn't exist on my bike, at least not that I know of.
 
I am unfamiliar with the kickstart models of the 650. Has yours got a cable that goes to the decompression lever? I have started the older 600 KLR, which were kickstart in the beginning by backing them up on the compression stroke, putting it in neutral and kicking it through effortlessly compared to what you are doing. It works on the modern 450's etc too. Like it did on Goldstars.
 
Mine does not have a cable.
I was hoping someone might have some experience with this type of situation that could offer some been-there-done-that advice.
What I am thinking is happening is one of two things;
1 - and hopefully this, that the spring on the compression release mechanism came off again, which would suck because I have to remove the valve cover again, or
2 - there is a bent valve that is stuck open, which would obviously suck worse.
My guess is that the spring came off again because I had it running and it runs good and makes decent power.
I am just tired of having to go back into the valve-train and would just like to see it do what it's supposed to do.

It's still fairly warm here so I would rather not spend any time in the garage, but winter is right around the corner and I got my kids bike running like racehorse. In the downtime I have geared us both up (riding clothes, boots, helmets, etc) and he is chomping at the bit to go riding. I would like to have my bike ready when it's cools down.
 
A valve stuck open would normally make kicking it much easier, since that function is what the compression release does. but checking to see if your valve clearance grew would be a fast way to see.
 
A valve stuck open would normally make kicking it much easier, since that function is what the compression release does

I was thinking more of a bent valve stuck open and the piston not being able to move upwards any farther because of it. A mechanical interference. Dont know how much clearance there is there, but I assume not much. While not certain, I am assuming that is not the case because I had it running.
I am just getting tired of removing the valve cover on this thing over and over again.
But I'm probably going to rip into it again today, so I will post back later and let y'all know what I find.
 
Repeat as necessary ... when I had to jet&set the float on a tmx i did it so many times I could have the carb out of the bike while the silencer was still smokin
 
I will. And as you stated, I am getting pretty good at it by now. I know all the tools necessary and have them at hand.
It helps that I keep the bike in a state of un-assembly; gas tank hangs from a wire from the garage door opener bracket on the ceiling, plastics are off, etc.

Edit: I removed the valve cover, and the KACR spring is in place. I removed the spark plug and can actuate the kick-start lever by hand to rotate the engine.

So why am I unable to kick-start this engine now?
 
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I was thinking more of a bent valve stuck open and the piston not being able to move upwards any farther because of it. A mechanical interference. Dont know how much clearance there is there, but I assume not much. While not certain, I am assuming that is not the case because I had it running.
I am just getting tired of removing the valve cover on this thing over and over again.
But I'm probably going to rip into it again today, so I will post back later and let y'all know what I find.


I have bent a few valves. I can never feel them impeding the motion in the least, (of course after they break and lodge in the piston or lay over in the squish area and break everything that is expensive in your engine, it gets hard to kick the ones I have been around :smirk::smirk::smirk:)
 
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