250F Another 2004 KX250F Project/Build

I'm nearly ready to order parts for this bike and have a cart at powersportswarehouse.com that has;
1 - OEM piston, rings, pin, and circlips
1 - OE head gasket & base gasket
1 - set OEM seals
1 - set OEM crank bearings
1 - set OEM transmission bearings
1 - OEM oil pump ROTOR-PUMP,SCAVENGE
1 - OEM
oil pump ROTOR-PUMP,FEED
$440.00.

Did I miss anything?
I seem to be late to this thread, but I didn't see a timing chain anywhere.
 
SS valves are not my choice. Lots of people with more experience than I seem to say they last longer, but I think the greater reciprocating weight and slower revving motor may not be a good trade. Besides, "lasting longer" is relative. It's a high revving race engine, lighter valves are BETTER that's why they have Ti valves to begin with.
 
I seem to be late to this thread, but I didn't see a timing chain anywhere.
@timoyz - welcome to the thread, your opinion is welcome here too. Trying to put together a parts list and a plan.
The timing chain was put into the separate 'head' category, and will be included in the next mortgage payment, err, I mean parts order for this bike. The first one was for the lower end stuff, and fluids, filters, front tire, fork seals, etc. The next one will have the chain, and whatever else y'all help me decide I need for the head.
Besides, "lasting longer" is relative. It's a high revving race engine
Yeah I know, but I want to do what I can when I can. If stock is best then I'll do that, but if something else that may have more longevity is available and it's not too pricey, then I want to consider it.

So since I need a valve job I was thinking I would beef things up if I could.
 
SS valves are not my choice. Lots of people with more experience than I seem to say they last longer, but I think the greater reciprocating weight and slower revving motor may not be a good trade. Besides, "lasting longer" is relative. It's a high revving race engine, lighter valves are BETTER that's why they have Ti valves to begin with.
SS valves were a popular fix for the Hondas that ate up their Ti intakes so fast. But even then, it wasn't the valves so much as it was the material that was used for the seats. It was too hard and the valves beat themselves to death. The Ti valves on Timoyz's WR lasted through 3 rebuilt heads of my old Honda. I think that if there is no history of problems on the Kawi then just run the OEM's.
 
SS valves were a popular fix for the Hondas that ate up their Ti intakes so fast. But even then, it wasn't the valves so much as it was the material that was used for the seats. It was too hard and the valves beat themselves to death. The Ti valves on Timoyz's WR lasted through 3 rebuilt heads of my old Honda. I think that if there is no history of problems on the Kawi then just run the OEM's.
That is what I just did to Joe's 05-450R, it had tie in cupped like a razor and I replaced with the SS kit. He's been out to the track once with it due to the hot I.E.
 
Riddle me this;
What does a brand new OEM Kawasaki piston look like?

I just received my initial order of OEM parts and the piston looks like its been through a cycle or two.
My camera just ran out of batteries otherwise I'd post a couple pics, but the top of it looks like it has seen combustion, and I cannot find any marks on it - No tool marks, cylinder marks, nothing.
Is it possible for it to have been installed and run without leaving any marks?
 
Riddle me this;
What does a brand new OEM Kawasaki piston look like?

I just received my initial order of OEM parts and the piston looks like its been through a cycle or two.
My camera just ran out of batteries otherwise I'd post a couple pics, but the top of it looks like it has seen combustion, and I cannot find any marks on it - No tool marks, cylinder marks, nothing.
Is it possible for it to have been installed and run without leaving any marks?

IMG_0702.JPG
 
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