2 Stroke 94rm80 bogs/stalls 4th 5th gear

Mihylo33

Mihylo33

Salanrm:
Just drained oil, not a drop missing, oil looks clean as the day i put it in, still fresh. No coolant missing, no coolant in oil,

I dont know wats the issue?

??????????????????????????
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The bike is loaded up then. Time to start from scratch. Compression test, float set, Reed check carb clean.
 
Mihylo33

Mihylo33

Salanrm:
Now its backfiring like crazy and wont idle suddenly,

Mess with carb again i guess but i donr kno why the sudden backfiring.
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Pull the flywheel cover off and check the magneto and stator for looseness. Be sure that the timing is correct.
 
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PawPaw

I don't really think you can tell if a small amount of oil has been burnt by getting past a bad seal as even a drop getting by will cause the problems you have stated. Even one drop of oil added to the fuel mix in the crank cavity will cause the fuel mix to be extreamly heavy with oil as there is such a small fuel charge there anyway.
I would change the seals and then you know they are good.

Paw Paw
 
S

Salanrm

Ill have to look into how to check set timing on it, i didnt evdn know that was an issue.

Your probably right about the seals, would explain a lot. Lots of smoke, wet plug, yesterday afyrr it stalled it had a strong smell of crank csse oil eminating from it, and when i pulled the plug it was wet with oil that smelled just like the crank case oil smells.

Ill just get em and replace em anyways, cheap enough its not a huge deal.

Thanks for the tip on checkin for play on magneto side to check bearings, ill have to check on tgat before i order, guess ilk wait now and report back on results if anybody carez.
 
S

Salanrm

So i got the seals, but i been sick all week, watching some videos on the process, and wondering how far i want to push the new seal in.

Also cant find any videos or anything on doing the ignition side seal. Can somebidy post something if they jhave it?
 
2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

Salanrm:
So i got the seals, but i been sick all week, watching some videos on the process, and wondering how far i want to push the new seal in.

Also cant find any videos or anything on doing the ignition side seal. Can somebidy post something if they jhave it?
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When installing seals like that 99% of the time they either are driven in to where the seal is flush with the housing or there is a seat that sets the depth for how far to install the seal.
 
Redordead89

Redordead89

ossagp:
pull the spring up towards that scerw down cap and get some of the cable exposed. with the spring up out of the slide you can see if there are screws holding the casting that the cable goes into. if so you may remove those, or see if you can get the cable out by pushing down out of the blind socket, and then flick the cable out through that slot.

as for the float setting you can priobably get really close by looking at the floats from the side and lifting them with your finger to where that brass tang that contacts the needle is just contacting it without compressing the spring. on that model the float mold lines should be level with the gasket surface of the carburetor body. you can bend that tang up or down to make that happen. while you are in there remove the float needle and make sure there is no dirt etc . once done you can blow through the fuel line with the float in the open or down position and move it to shutoff and see if you are getting a decent seal.

now what does the spark plug look like?
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:hifive:
 
S

Salanrm

Been trying no finding anything on left side procedure, lots of deyailed instructions on rigjt side though, not even sure if left side is bad but...

No cash left for book...

Got a whole seal set ,8 piece, besidez water pump what other seals shod i look at?
 
2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

Salanrm:
Been trying no finding anything on left side procedure, lots of deyailed instructions on rigjt side though, not even sure if left side is bad but...

No cash left for book...

Got a whole seal set ,8 piece, besidez water pump what other seals shod i look at?
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Remove the left side cover, you need to remove the flywheel retaining nut then you'll need a flywheel puller, remove the flywheel, and stator, you may want to index the stator for reassembly to ensure the timing does not change. With all these components removed you will have access to the crank seal, at this point its just a matter of popping out the old seal and installing the new one, I like to put a little oil on the lip of the seal and maybe a very light coating of RTV on the outside of the seal where it mates to the case. But other than that just reassemble in reverse order.
 
S

Salanrm

Alright. Got the seals working on it now, was going to do the ignition side first but the screws are stripped on stator, 2 on left came out without issue, the 2 bigger ones. One on left, one on right wont budge, any good metjods to get them bitches out?
 
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