450F My new WR!

cleonard

cleonard

I've never sheared a woodruff key in any of the vehicles that I've ever owned. I mean it's not really the torque element. It locates the flywheel of the crank and the friction of the tapered shaft against the flywheel is what holds it. Well that's how it's supposed to work. I have a hard time understanding how it could shear those keys. Is there some problem with the fit between the parts?
 
Mojavekid18

Mojavekid18

cleonard:
I've never sheared a woodruff key in any of the vehicles that I've ever owned. I mean it's not really the torque element. It locates the flywheel of the crank and the friction of the tapered shaft against the flywheel is what holds it. Well that's how it's supposed to work. I have a hard time understanding how it could shear those keys. Is there some problem with the fit between the parts?
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thats the only thing i could think of is that i was makeing the height of the key too big, i order 4 oem ones so i'll try after they come in
 
Mojavekid18

Mojavekid18

bobkyle2:
Only time i've ever sheered any off is on Yamahas. Blasters and banshee's
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Thats funny, i've had 2 people tell me that their old IT's used to do it back in the day all the time and they had to carry extras, you think they would learn by now..............
 
cleonard

cleonard

It might make it a bitch to remove, but how about some retaining compound? Think of it as a slightly different kind of threadlocker except it's green. Loctite 603 can take less than total oil removal but can't take heat. Loctite 620 would be better but needs all the oil removed. I think that I'd use the high heat 648.
 
Mojavekid18

Mojavekid18

cleonard:
It might make it a bitch to remove, but how about some retaining compound? Think of it as a slightly different kind of threadlocker except it's green. Loctite 603 can take less than total oil removal but can't take heat. Loctite 620 would be better but needs all the oil removed. I think that I'd use the high heat 648.
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I used the red loctite and it did not help at all, i even sprayed everything down with brake cleaner to make sure all the oil was off
 
Mojavekid18

Mojavekid18

cleonard:
The same thing that seems to happen to every thread.

OK, back to the topic. The retaining compounds are somewhat different than the thread lock. I'd say that it's worth a try. I know that the retaining compounds have saved me more than one expensive replacement part.
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If the first oem key i try dosen't fix it i will definitely give it a whirl before i do anything else :thumb:
 
Mojavekid18

Mojavekid18

So put and oem flywheel key it. Rode it 5 minutes and it stripped again. The stater cover/case also broke. I hate life and i am completely out of ideas
 
Mojavekid18

Mojavekid18

So i am trying the green loctite compound cleonard was talking about and i will also be useing the "revised" torque specs that the manual calls for. IF this doesen't work the African-American engineering procedure 1317 shall begin :prof:
 
Mihylo33

Mihylo33

Mojavekid18:
So i am trying the green loctite compound cleonard was talking about and i will also be useing the "revised" torque specs that the manual calls for. IF this doesen't work the n*gger riggin shall begin :prof:
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James runs a very liberal forum here and now the sensitivity bell is on overtime.... Please refer to it as African-American engineering procedure 1317...
Thank you and good day...
 
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