Haha well thanks for not shunning me :) Break in done. I know my jetting is rich so Ill work on that tomorrow. Not sure the needle clip position, ill find out. right now it has a 170 main, 60 pilot, and air screw at 1.75 out. more smoke than I like. Jetting chart off kxriders suggests 168 main and 58 pilot. My gearing is 13-40, weird i know, its just what I had. But I figured it would pull harder than it is so I know jetting must be off. Although, starting it is a 1 kick affair, unlike what the internet would like you to believe. definitely not getting a compression release. Im beginning to think 500's are more myth than anything else :\ "please let correct jetting cure my need for speed"
 
Haha well thanks for not shunning me :) Break in done. I know my jetting is rich so Ill work on that tomorrow. Not sure the needle clip position, ill find out. right now it has a 170 main, 60 pilot, and air screw at 1.75 out. more smoke than I like. Jetting chart off kxriders suggests 168 main and 58 pilot. My gearing is 13-40, weird i know, its just what I had. But I figured it would pull harder than it is so I know jetting must be off. Although, starting it is a 1 kick affair, unlike what the internet would like you to believe. definitely not getting a compression release. Im beginning to think 500's are more myth than anything else :\ "please let correct jetting cure my need for speed"

It will be hard to tell if your jetting is rich if you still have a lot of assembly lube in the motor. It sounded good but I'm not there in person.
 
Tried 58/168 then 55/165 jets (60/170 to start) with as many air screw adjustments as I could. If I didn't know any better I'd say it feels pig rich. Just falls on it's face blubbery after a pretty lame low end. But at wot there's hardly any smoke, so it can't be. I'm scared to go more lean that that. Im looking into electrical problems and kips problems. So lame I wanna rip!
 
I have taken my main jet from 160-178 at every step and see no change in my wot performance. its unbelievable. My float valve is adjusted to spec. The carb has been thoroughly cleaned. Every port\channel is clear. I checked the power valve system it appears to be in spec. It just doesn't wanna rev or give me any power. Im on the beach and its 70 degrees. A friend suggested I check the reeds. How do these pictures look

(flashlight behind pointed right at the reed tips) Theres barely any if any light coming through the reed tips. however there is light coming around the edges as you can see. These are v force reeds, the old ones with screws holding the reeds on the block. Should I replace them or do I need to look elsewhere as to why my bike runs like a$$. Ive never had a reed issue on any of my bikes ever so I'm doubtful this matters. A 500 piston coming down should create enough pressure to close these little valves, but thats opinion only not experience.

Had to weld a tork bit onto a stripped allen bolt so I could install the magnetic bolt for the speedo. what a pain.IMG_1450.jpgIMG_1451.jpgIMG_1452.jpgIMG_1453.jpgIMG_1457.jpgIMG_1458.jpg

Thanks for your help.
 
Those reeds don't look right but it's hard to tell. The piston is installed correctly, right? What is your stock jetting supposed to be and then compare that to the Pro Circuit jetting Chart. FMF also has a chart and both are available for free online
 
I can't verify the piston is correctly installed. The arrow is facing the exhaust like it should be but I did not check ring end gap or location. but there is slight scoring on it that I can see after removing the reeds. its getting hot, bummer.

I have tried all the combinations that the fmf chart, the kx riders chart, and the kx500 manual suggest. Nothing seems to have any effect on how the bike runs (i mean doesn't run) on top end, though changes in the pilot jet have a noticeable but minimal effect on pull from idle.

Reeds are not tight at the edges. there is light coming through. I tried flipping them, but there is curve in the reed so that makes the gap even worse.
 
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