Lighting thread.

Just like I have run a DC halogen or DC HID. The built in time delay means you don't need a switch. The big problem with a switch is forgetting and running down the battery. It's just nice to have it automatic.
 
Just like I have run a DC halogen or DC HID. The built in time delay means you don't need a switch. The big problem with a switch is forgetting and running down the battery. It's just nice to have it automatic.

if i was to go no switch and a baja designs rectifier, what would be the disadvantage. I don;t night ride in the woods by the way.
 
I'm not 100% clear on the BD unit, but with no switch your headlight would always be on and would drain the battery.

Night riding in the woods is the best.
 

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
So that Trailtech reg/rec has my eye. It is a BATTERY dedicated component with a timer. It is 100% for custom wiring jobs.
The timer acts as a switch for the lighting power ensuring you're never draining the battery unnecessarily. On and Off.
The wiring is as simple as this
1.jpg

That is exactly what I'm looking for. Probably wire in a master switch before the lights and be good to go.
NOTE: THIS SYSTEM MUST BE SEPARATE FROM THE FRAME GROUND. DO NOT GROUND TO THE FRAME. on some systems, the ignition runs off AC from the stator... so the frame is AC grounded and your battery is the DC lighting system's ground. They must be separate systems.

COOL-BIG DAN
 
The BD squadron is super bright (4300 lumens) and is plug and play on most bikes drawing the same or less watts as a stock headlight! Therefore not draining your battery :thumb:
 
lights-jpg.16632
 
It might work, but LEDs need really good cooling and I just don't see how that setup could cool the LED very much at all. Also most bikes have an AC headlight so you have to deal with that as well. some bike LED headlights can run on AC, but I doubt a small package like that can contain that circuitry. Since you have to do a DC conversion anyhow, a HID might be easier.
 
It might work, but LEDs need really good cooling and I just don't see how that setup could cool the LED very much at all. Also most bikes have an AC headlight so you have to deal with that as well. some bike LED headlights can run on AC, but I doubt a small package like that can contain that circuitry. Since you have to do a DC conversion anyhow, a HID might be easier.

With HID, you need to add a resister yes? Also, isn't an HID hotter and would require a better rectifier as well?
 
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