Lighting thread.

A lot depends on what you are trying to do. Blasting 60+ down a desert road requires something very different than singletrack. One needs narrow focusing. HID still rules here. Those expensive Trailtech lights mentioned earlier by Ken are HID and cone in a very narrow focus that LED can't match. They are really nice. LED is catching up though and tend to work better on the slower trails. I've done the LPNF trails and they are great at night. To me less focused light works well as you can't usually see farther than 100 feet anyhow.

Those eBay LEDs over state the light a lot. Most of these use the Cree XM-L led. At best it can do about 1000 lumens at maximum drive. It takes good cooling and precise circuitry to do that, and those cheap lights have neither. Lights also have losses. Most real world results will have more like 700 lumens per XM-L led at best. That eBay light above is more like 2000 lumens. Still a lot of light though since most stock bikes are more like 400 lumens.

While the less expensive light can work well there is a big difference in build quality. The BD and TT stuff is well made, but you pay big time for it.

I've learned that redundancy is a good thing to have while riding at night. I've had a few failures over the years and I was glad that I had backups.

Even a $15 cheap XM-L flashlight and some tape can get give you surprising results.

Not narrow enough? This is a $110 model(4 bulb 3600 lumens). Im getting the $70 half model of this. (2 bulb 1800 lumens)
The Tree is 250ft from the light
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And also, Carl is the MAN on night rides in the CA desert. Spooky stuff if you ask me. You get turned all different types of sideways out there when there's no moon. I can use all my turtle ninja senses and still end up in Arizona :banghead:
 
Not narrow enough? This is a $110 model(4 bulb 3600 lumens). Im getting the $70 half model of this. (2 bulb 1800 lumens)
The Tree is 250ft from the light

For trail riding that light is about perfect as far as I'm concerned. The price is good as well. They also give realistic lumen numbers that are likely close.

A guy I used to ride with had one of those BD 8 inch race lights with HID. He would average 70 on the smooth desert roads where I could only do about 50 because I just didn't have the light to see far enough. You really have to see what those race lights are like in person to understand. Same for that TrailTech SCMR16 HID. No reasonable LED that I have seen throws light like those. It's simple optics really. HID has a small very intense source. The XM-L is 2mm x 2mm and needs a larger optics to focus small. Most vehicle LED lights use smaller optics.



And also, Carl is the MAN on night rides in the CA desert. Spooky stuff if you ask me. You get turned all different types of sideways out there when there's no moon. I can use all my turtle ninja senses and still end up in Arizona :banghead:

Not so much any more. At least until I get my Beta setup correctly. Then it's game on.

The only time I've ever broken out the GPS while riding was on a night ride when we were somewhat disoriented and got turned around. While you are riding you can only see what your lights hit. Otherwise it's blackness. To see the skyline to figure out where you might be you have to stop and let your eyes adjust.

Until they try it most think that night riding is insane. With the proper setup it's a blast and everyone that I've got to try it liked it. You really can see almost like it's day. One nice thing is that it makes trails you have ridden a hundred time new again. It's a different experience. Essentially zero chance of a head on.
 
You can do your own street kit for about $200. it only takes a couple hours.
Get the Tusk kit, ($150 on eBay), then a new rectifier from Ricky Stator($50).
Then it's $50 for a shop to inspect, and then tabs.
If you update the regulator/rectifier you can tie into the cheesy 1000mah battery pack and keep it charged without damaging the stator.
Plus, they come with a delay source, you can set it from 5-22 second delay after ignition is turned off. (great for accessories or lighting)
I got a 2001 WR250 for $800 with a broken kick start shaft.
$150 and 4 hours to replace.
Around $300 total for lighting and tabs.
It already had lots of performance mods.
Just have to keep the FMF packing clean to keep to sound down.
If you use bullet connectors you can remove the lighting system in less than an hour.
Got a 80/20 dirt DOT set of tires for $65 each. They are as aggressive as average knobbys.
Only problem is with all the traction on the street is difficult to keep the front down from start through 3rd unless you are on total putt mode.
Even bikers give you a thumbs up.
Doing the '99 WR400 mod today.
 
You can do your own street kit for about $200. it only takes a couple hours.
Get the Tusk kit, ($150 on eBay), then a new rectifier from Ricky Stator($50).
Then it's $50 for a shop to inspect, and then tabs.
If you update the regulator/rectifier you can tie into the cheesy 1000mah battery pack and keep it charged without damaging the stator.
Plus, they come with a delay source, you can set it from 5-22 second delay after ignition is turned off. (great for accessories or lighting)
I got a 2001 WR250 for $800 with a broken kick start shaft.
$150 and 4 hours to replace.
Around $300 total for lighting and tabs.
It already had lots of performance mods.
Just have to keep the FMF packing clean to keep to sound down.
If you use bullet connectors you can remove the lighting system in less than an hour.
Got a 80/20 dirt DOT set of tires for $65 each. They are as aggressive as average knobbys.
Only problem is with all the traction on the street is difficult to keep the front down from start through 3rd unless you are on total putt mode.
Even bikers give you a thumbs up.
Doing the '99 WR400 mod today.

His is already plated. Baja designs rectifier is $37 by the way.
 
Whew.. thanks. No need for sleepless nights thinking I paid more for the same thing.
It doesn't have an adjustable delay time or variable voltage feature.
I hear you can to smokers too. As long as the title doesn't " racing only" it can be tabbed.
I'd like to do a CR500 and go super moto setup. Just to mess with peoples minds.
Except, every lawn between the house and work would be fair game...
 
Whew.. thanks. No need for sleepless nights thinking I paid more for the same thing.
It doesn't have an adjustable delay time or variable voltage feature.
I hear you can to smokers too. As long as the title doesn't " racing only" it can be tabbed.
I'd like to do a CR500 and go super moto setup. Just to mess with peoples minds.
Except, every lawn between the house and work would be fair game...

Yeah, just more features I don't need. I don't run accessories and just need it for my led headlight and my led dual sport kit.
 
Why is that?
Most dirt bikes even factory dual sports have an AC powered headlight. When the engine quits so do your lights. Normally not a problem, but the engine quitting from panic braking or a steep clutch in down hill can be dicey. With the time delay you run your headlight on the DC instead of AC and the time delay keeps the headlight on for a short time after the engine stops.
 
Most dirt bikes even factory dual sports have an AC powered headlight. When the engine quits so do your lights. Normally not a problem, but the engine quitting from panic braking or a steep clutch in down hill can be dicey. With the time delay you run your headlight on the DC instead of AC and the time delay keeps the headlight on for a short time after the engine stops.

I plan on running a led dc headlight though.
 
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