Gonna be a first time 2t owner... 02 kx250
- Thread starter redswr
- Start date
Well Red, welcome to the smokey side. If all youve ever ridden was a 4T your in for a treat
. Not really. Dont worry the bike wont loop you. Put your knutz on the tank and stay in the attack position and the front end be tame. Once you get used to the power delivery (way different than your 4T) you can experiment with body position and with practice you will find the sweet spot to float the front end.
If the bike doesnt come with a FACTORY service manual, get one. Your bike pre mix ratio should be 32:1 according to the factory service manual. Id bet large sums of money against anybody that says other wise. Buy an assortment of main jets. Say 2 sizes bigger than what is already in the bike and 3 sizes smaller than what is in the bike. Id buy 1 size larger and smaller on the pilot too. Its not like your 4T where when you get the bike jetted for your elevation set it and forget it. A 2T you will jet for elevation and temperature, depending on the day. I've rejeted my bike 4 times since November of last year. Not a big deal. Takes about 20 min start to finish. Dont ever deviate from your pre mix ratio. It was designed to be operated with that ratio. If you experience a plug fouling issue your JETTED to rich, its not your mix ratio. If you still have a plug fouling problem once youve gone down 3 or 4 main jet sizes and have adjusted the jet needle to full lean. You have a much larger problem. Could be as simple as just needing a new top end, you need a new crank bearing seal. Or worse. Dont let any of this intimidate you
. 2T bikes are really easy to work on and really easy to tune.
Once youve found out what type of oil the previous owner ran its really up to you to decide. Personally Im a Klotz synthetic oil user. I like Red Line also. Ive found that once youve mixed the oil it stays suspended in the fuel reguardless of how cold or long the fuel sits. The dino oil (castor) will separate if is sits for too long or is subjected to cold weather of extended periods. But really there are no bad dirt bike specific oils. Just dont try to run marine 2 stroke oil, or yard equipment 2 stroke oil. Pick one and stay with it
If you have any questions I'll do my best to give you the correct answer. If I dont know ask Jackson, or Mihylo, those two dudes are pretty smart about 2T machines.
Look at this link. Ive used it myself on my bike and recommended it to others. http://www.eric-gorr.com/pdfs/model tuning tips.pdf
Its a big PDF file so be patient its a little slow to load. Just scroll down till you find your year make model. It will tell you alot about your new bike. Its Pro, and Cons. And how to fix the Cons.
. Not really. Dont worry the bike wont loop you. Put your knutz on the tank and stay in the attack position and the front end be tame. Once you get used to the power delivery (way different than your 4T) you can experiment with body position and with practice you will find the sweet spot to float the front end. If the bike doesnt come with a FACTORY service manual, get one. Your bike pre mix ratio should be 32:1 according to the factory service manual. Id bet large sums of money against anybody that says other wise. Buy an assortment of main jets. Say 2 sizes bigger than what is already in the bike and 3 sizes smaller than what is in the bike. Id buy 1 size larger and smaller on the pilot too. Its not like your 4T where when you get the bike jetted for your elevation set it and forget it. A 2T you will jet for elevation and temperature, depending on the day. I've rejeted my bike 4 times since November of last year. Not a big deal. Takes about 20 min start to finish. Dont ever deviate from your pre mix ratio. It was designed to be operated with that ratio. If you experience a plug fouling issue your JETTED to rich, its not your mix ratio. If you still have a plug fouling problem once youve gone down 3 or 4 main jet sizes and have adjusted the jet needle to full lean. You have a much larger problem. Could be as simple as just needing a new top end, you need a new crank bearing seal. Or worse. Dont let any of this intimidate you
. 2T bikes are really easy to work on and really easy to tune.Once youve found out what type of oil the previous owner ran its really up to you to decide. Personally Im a Klotz synthetic oil user. I like Red Line also. Ive found that once youve mixed the oil it stays suspended in the fuel reguardless of how cold or long the fuel sits. The dino oil (castor) will separate if is sits for too long or is subjected to cold weather of extended periods. But really there are no bad dirt bike specific oils. Just dont try to run marine 2 stroke oil, or yard equipment 2 stroke oil. Pick one and stay with it
If you have any questions I'll do my best to give you the correct answer. If I dont know ask Jackson, or Mihylo, those two dudes are pretty smart about 2T machines.
Look at this link. Ive used it myself on my bike and recommended it to others. http://www.eric-gorr.com/pdfs/model tuning tips.pdf
Its a big PDF file so be patient its a little slow to load. Just scroll down till you find your year make model. It will tell you alot about your new bike. Its Pro, and Cons. And how to fix the Cons.
KX- about 213 pounds, and 55 HP according to this- http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kawasaki_kx_250_2002.php
WR- About 246 pounds, supposedly 52 HP from the links I found, and Yamaha
And if you have balls and can ride right(or learn how to) then a 250 2's shorter powerband should be noo problem
Well then I don't think that your estimate on the 450 can be accurate either.... unless maybe your measuring it at the crank but then the 2t's numbers would be different...
Jos is pretty close on his numbers. Over the winter I had my bike on a dyno. I made nine pulls. The first three were to get a base line. The middle three were to get the bike dialed in on jetting. The last three where where proof positive. First three pulls the bike made 40 hp. After the jetting adjustments and a power valve spring adjustment the bike make 42 hp. The final three pulls also included some little tweeks on the carb with the jet needle and air screw. But the final three pulls the bike made 45 hp on a 50\50 mix of 91 octaine, and 105 octaine fuel, with a freshly broke in topend, new FMF head pipe, fresh repacked FMF power core, and new Boyesen rad valve with dual stage carbon fiber reeds. And my bike is 19 years old. So a much newer unmodified bike should make atleast that much hp. A modified bike with similar mods to mine should pretty close to 50+ hp.
James
Staff member
Lighter yes, smaller not really. 250 2's make as much power as 450 4's with less weight
If 2 strokes were truly on the same level as 4 strokes, we wouldn't be having this problem.
https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/for...ntroduce-2-stroke-bikes-ama-mx-sx-events.html
take that JimmmyJam 
James
Staff member
...errr...
Heck I bet if you hopped on a little 85 you could still smoke me. 
I think you completely missed my point (go read that thread I'd linked to).
BTW as much as I like stirring the pot on the 2 vs 4 stroke debates, I honestly don't care what you ride as long as you ride.
Ohh, your saying same displacement? I agree, different displacement is BS.(I love it when some dumbass in school{well this won't happen for awhile cause schools out
} tells me that a 250f makes more torque than a 125. REALLY? well nooo shit I'd hope it would if it's twice as big)Dirt drag strip or some endruo
. Oh and why would I need $5? OHH I GET IT, you want me to bring money for Mcdonalds! good job thinking ahead James!