4 Stroke 2013 KTM 500EXC

This is the tail light I put on, it has all the lights in it and very compact but still functional
 

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Shall we start a list of items you need for that bike :thinking:

1) get out and ride it, so you know how it feels before you start tweaking the suspension and motor. You need a good baseline and feel for the bike.

2) desmog
3) Fmf pipe or pro Moto billet end cap - this is done after desmog or gutting pipe.
3) have the bike put on computer and tuned for the FI - or take a short cut and don't ride it til you desmog it. I have been told that the computer will "self calibrate" when new. Look in your owners manual on how this works. I recall the instruction.
4) don't worry about a skid plate - you won't need it with the bike sitting in the garage :smirk:
5)gearing - you may want to consider 13/48 with stock chain, 14/52 with new chain which is good for slow speed single track. I plan to switch to a 14/50 on my next set up.
6) new decals and fender arches for added HP

I'm off to work :wave:
 
Shall we start a list of items you need for that bike :thinking:

1) get out and ride it, so you know how it feels before you start tweaking the suspension and motor. You need a good baseline and feel for the bike.

2) desmog
3) Fmf pipe or pro Moto billet end cap - this is done after desmog or gutting pipe.
3) have the bike put on computer and tuned for the FI - or take a short cut and don't ride it til you desmog it. I have been told that the computer will "self calibrate" when new. Look in your owners manual on how this works. I recall the instruction.
4) don't worry about a skid plate - you won't need it with the bike sitting in the garage :smirk:
5)gearing - you may want to consider 13/48 with stock chain, 14/52 with new chain which is good for slow speed single track. I plan to switch to a 14/50 on my next set up.
6) new decals and fender arches for added HP

I'm off to work :wave:
If that is anything like fuel injected automobiles they have adaptive learning ..... And to reset that you disconnect the battery, then turn the key on and lights and anything that will store energy, Let it set 15-20 mins.... Shut everything off, Then connect the battary back. Start it and let it idle for 3 mins. and then :ride:
 
If that is anything like fuel injected automobiles they have adaptive learning ..... And to reset that you disconnect the battery, then turn the key on and lights and anything that will store energy, Let it set 15-20 mins.... Shut everything off, Then connect the battary back. Start it and let it idle for 3 mins. and then :ride:

This is something along the lines that I was told.
 
Shall we start a list of items you need for that bike :thinking:

1) get out and ride it, so you know how it feels before you start tweaking the suspension and motor. You need a good baseline and feel for the bike.

2) desmog
3) Fmf pipe or pro Moto billet end cap - this is done after desmog or gutting pipe.
3) have the bike put on computer and tuned for the FI - or take a short cut and don't ride it til you desmog it. I have been told that the computer will "self calibrate" when new. Look in your owners manual on how this works. I recall the instruction.
4) don't worry about a skid plate - you won't need it with the bike sitting in the garage :smirk:
5)gearing - you may want to consider 13/48 with stock chain, 14/52 with new chain which is good for slow speed single track. I plan to switch to a 14/50 on my next set up.
6) new decals and fender arches for added HP

I'm off to work :wave:
About Item 1 - I agree on the motor, but suspension needs attention before you leave the garage.
- Set sag (3" or 100mm)
- Make sure all clickers are set to the same settings. I normally go one off center towards the hard side. (ex: 20 clicks, I go 9 from full hard)
Once you have that setup, then go ride and it will take a couple good days of riding before you get the suspension to set and allow for a more accurate settings.

- As for the motor, I hear these things are pretty well tuned for having all the stuff attached (smog, baffles, ect.) and if you want to de-smog it, you need to have the dealer reprogram the ECU. I could be wrong though on this, but it is worth a research. Should have had the dealer do this for you before you took it home.

- When it comes to gearing, I am the last person to ask about that as gearing is different for each person. 15/45 is way too tall for anything but running down the pavement. I rode mine with the stock gearing in the dez and I never got out of 2nd gear (go figure Rack) until I hit Teagle Valley and could open it up. Problem is, you do not have the snap to loft the front end over obstacles the sneak up on you. I am real happy with 14/48 as that will do what I want and still have some sweet top speed. I run 13/48 in the trees as you can run around in 3rd and 4th gear more using that gearing. I would not like that in the dez as it makes the gear ration too close for me. Not sure why Rack is saying his new setup would be 14/50 when he was raving about my 14/48 gearing, but I did notice a brown spot on the seat after he rode it. :smirk:

- Throw a skid plate on that thing and go ride. I hear TWG is planing a Death Valley run here soon, you should be going on that trip with him. That is the main reason you bought this thing, isn't it?

Get more pics up and show the group pics of this thing in the dirt.
 
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