250 1988 yz250 build
- Thread starter Lovespeed
- Start date
Cable routing. The clutch pack will not do that unless you didn't soak the discs.
I'm pretty sure it's not the cable because I can hardly move the part at the bottom on the engine. I heard that taking the plates out and sanding them out and oiling them will fix it, right?
Um, no!
The plates need to be within spec, when you pull them out of the motor and they sit for a long time, they should be soaking in oil. If you sand them, and soak them again you will be not helping anything unless they are brand new and you never soaked them in the first place. When I say, "sand" it is VERY lightly.
1) How old are the plates?
2) Did you measure them to be within spec? 02 up YZ250 is: 2.9mm-3.1mm and min AKA trash 2.8mm always replace as a "set".
3) How old is the cable?
4) Did you lube it (even if new)?
5) Did you make sure the routing is correct?
No. You won't be able to move the actuator arm by hand. The cable if disconnected at both ends should move freely and extremely easy. If not then toss it. It is possible that the seal and bearing are binding in the actuator arm itself. Highly unlikely, but possible.
I lubed the cable and adjusted it several times but no improvement.
How is the clutch perch? Does it move freely without a cable? Is the pivot bolt so tight that the lever does not move free?
How is the cable? When the cable is off the bike and or both sides, does it slide back and fourth in the housing freely without bind what so ever?
How is the bearing/bushing/seal that the clutch actuator arm works through on the motor?
How is the clutch pack, you never did answer any of my questions?
Step one cheapest.
Step two mid range.
Step three a little more.
Step four a little more.
Step five most, buy everything brand new and/or throw the bike away.
How is the cable? When the cable is off the bike and or both sides, does it slide back and fourth in the housing freely without bind what so ever?
How is the bearing/bushing/seal that the clutch actuator arm works through on the motor?
How is the clutch pack, you never did answer any of my questions?
Step one cheapest.
Step two mid range.
Step three a little more.
Step four a little more.
Step five most, buy everything brand new and/or throw the bike away.
Cheapest solution is as Palmer said. Make sure the lever pivots easy on the perch. A new lever and perch about $12 on the cheap. The cable is about $15. Make sure it slides easy back and forth. The actuator bearing and seal are around $20.
well thank you so much because your questions actually answered my question! It turns out that the cable is very very hard to move while disconnected from both ends freely. I'm ordering a new cable asap!!!
