125 Kx 125 Rebuild thread

Just a little update, Will have pics tomorrow:
Frame is half blasted
Top End Kit came in
ordering everything but grips and a new tire tomorrow
Found my new best friend for getting the severe mud stains out of the aluminum. Its called aluminum jelly, they use it in machine shops. All you do it brush it on, wait about 10 mins, wipe off and you have a new looking motor, and that's with a 10 year old bottle of it that went bad. Im going to get more of that stuff, it by far the easiest and most effective way. Just don't get it on anything painted
 
Just a little update, Will have pics tomorrow:
Frame is half blasted
Top End Kit came in
ordering everything but grips and a new tire tomorrow
Found my new best friend for getting the severe mud stains out of the aluminum. Its called aluminum jelly, they use it in machine shops. All you do it brush it on, wait about 10 mins, wipe off and you have a new looking motor, and that's with a 10 year old bottle of it that went bad. Im going to get more of that stuff, it by far the easiest and most effective way. Just don't get it on anything painted

Try this stuff. Spray it on, hose it off. It also doesn't screw up paint, plastic, or upholstery.:thumb:
Bike-Brite-Spray-Wash-32-oz.jpg
 
well here is a couple pics. Got the rest of it blasted and did some time at the parts washer getting the goop off the powervalve.
But i had been getting water in my oil even after replacing the water pump seals last winter so i decided to tear into it again. Found that my bearings were bad so i need to get them pulled by a shop or find a puller small enough to get them out.
 

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well here is a couple pics. Got the rest of it blasted and did some time at the parts washer getting the goop off the powervalve.
But i had been getting water in my oil even after replacing the water pump seals last winter so i decided to tear into it again. Found that my bearings were bad so i need to get them pulled by a shop or find a puller small enough to get them out.


here if you have Harbor freight near you
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-5469.html
 
I went to Harbor freight today and picked up a bearing puller kit, torque wrench, snap-ring pliers, and some other goodies. I have no idea how i functioned without this puller kit, i had the bearing out in 1 pull, it took longer to unwrap the plastic off the box and open it :D. Definitely one of the best tool purchase's i've made. Now i need to run down to timkin and get the bearing's and i'll be ready to throw the motor back together. The last thing i should have to buy after(fingers crossed)the bearings is the paint for the frame. Then i'll have all i need to throw this thing back together.
Oh, and Brian, James, and Mike. I hope my motor gets the "Clean seal of Approval" After i spent hours and hours scrubbing it
 

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I went to Harbor freight today and picked up a bearing puller kit, torque wrench, snap-ring pliers, and some other goodies. I have no idea how i functioned without this puller kit, i had the bearing out in 1 pull, it took longer to unwrap the plastic off the box and open it :D. Definitely one of the best tool purchase's i've made. Now i need to run down to timkin and get the bearing's and i'll be ready to throw the motor back together. The last thing i should have to buy after(fingers crossed)the bearings is the paint for the frame. Then i'll have all i need to throw this thing back together.
Oh, and Brian, James, and Mike. I hope my motor gets the "Clean seal of Approval" After i spent hours and hours scrubbing it

looks good, hope to hear it running within a few weeks :thumb:
 
Pittsburg... Thats the one i had... And its facked me... Both of mine were not accurate at all... I had a 1/4 3/8s and 1/2 drive.... The 3/8s and 1/2 .. Where not in spec at all... Even caused my issue with the crankbolt.... And would have been even worse if i didnt check over the rest after the crank bolt.... I tossed the tow out... And the 1/4 drive one... I put sign on it saying not to use it as a torque wrench...

Mine were a little over a year old... And not used very much at all.. Never been dropped... Never really been moved at all...
 
Pittsburg... Thats the one i had... And its facked me... Both of mine were not accurate at all... I had a 1/4 3/8s and 1/2 drive.... The 3/8s and 1/2 .. Where not in spec at all... Even caused my issue with the crankbolt.... And would have been even worse if i didnt check over the rest after the crank bolt.... I tossed the tow out... And the 1/4 drive one... I put sign on it saying not to use it as a torque wrench...

Mine were a little over a year old... And not used very much at all.. Never been dropped... Never really been moved at all...

I checked it with my uncles snap-on and its close right now, i check every torque wrench before i use i anyways and i always go through the torque range a couple time and back it all the way off before storage. I'll see how long this one last, but even if only a year it was 10$
 
I released this one everytime also.. It was actually the first torque wrench that i treated good... And it let me down :( .... I had a harbor freight one awhile back that lasted forever never had any issues with it... And someone borrowed it and never brought it back... So i bought that one...
 
I figured this might be worth a post. But i pulled one of the forks apart tonight. Tried to make a 2"pvc driver real quick but it looks like i need to hone the one i machined. Oil looked pretty good actually, i think i might have been one thing the guy before me did. Anyways the new MSR's look like the some quality seals and i hope they hold up.
 
Finally got my Seal Driver done, honed it with some cylinder stones to get it smooth because our boring bar at school sucks. It moves so much every pass that one end is .75mm and the other is around 2mm. After that i went through about 5 dremel wheels cutting it in half. Then i took a very fine half-round file to knock off the edges and used a 1-3/4" hose clamp to attach the whole thing
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So now i went to work. I already had everything torn apart and flushed with all the seals on and ready to go in, so all i had to do was drive them and add the oil. IMGA0528.JPG

Because of our shitty lathe equipment the driver was a tad small at the other end, so i lubed it up real well and held it tight (thats dirty :smirk:) then used the top tube to drive it in while i held the driver still to avoid and scratching. It went pretty smooth, just coated everything in vasoline and it all slid on.
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Then i added the oil, i used honda 5wt. I poured some in, pumped the tube once or twice and then the dampener about 6 times. Repeated that about 5 times until there was complete evenness in the dampiner all the way up and down. I also did not have the squish to buy the oil tool and my mom would hang my ass if i used her baster. So i did some digging around in my uncles shop nextdoor and found this little guy. I adjusted it to 80mm (stock is 90, i just added more because i pretend to be a good MXer) and added oil until the fluid just barley touched the end.
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Then all i had to do was put the spring in with the centering ring and tighten the cap on the dampiner. Then just tighten the cap to the outer tube. All in all it was pretty easy, with real tools it would have been even easier. I still have to do the other fork but i only bought 1 qt of oil :doh:
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