Toy Hauler holding tank wiring and sensors

Hey Rez. Just resplice the wire ends with regular automotive eyelets and attach them to were they are supposed to go. Then either get covers for your grey and black tanks to keep the dogs out of there. Or, spray they area with bitter apple spray (found at your local pet stores). Saturate it good. The next time the dogs try to chew on the stuff they will get a nasty taste in their mouth, and likely wont mess with it again.

I too have to replace some trailer holding tank wiring. But thats mostly due to it being 20 years old. And I will be repairing it exactly the way I discribed.


Thtat is my next step...my buddy offered to help me out...he know's his wiring. I just can't figure if the fix is THAT easy why wouldn't the RV place have done it??? They had a paying customer...there's got to be more to it that I'm not getting!:rolleyes:
 
Thtat is my next step...my buddy offered to help me out...he know's his wiring. I just can't figure if the fix is THAT easy why wouldn't the RV place have done it??? They had a paying customer...there's got to be more to it that I'm not getting!:rolleyes:

Since you are not coming to TDAY why repair it? You are heading to the Rez where you have not needed it for how long?
 
Since you are not coming to TDAY why repair it? You are heading to the Rez where you have not needed it for how long?

Yeah, but my arm tends to smell after a while......but not heading to the rez for T'day...staying home...going to be venturing elsewhere eventually....:devil:....:thinking:.....:shocked:....:smirk:
 
Because they are morons that work at those places. Believe me, I do just about every fix it thing that comes up with my RV because I have had experience with morons before, if you want it done right, fix it yourself. :prof:

This rings through with all the things I have run across. Unless it is under warranty fix it yourself. Nobody does as good of work as quality/pride of ownership. :prof:
 
This rings through with all the things I have run across. Unless it is under warranty fix it yourself. Nobody does as good of work as quality/pride of ownership. :prof:

Don't I know this however ONLY if I know what I'm doing...this is my plan going forward though with a little help from my friend. :thumb:
 
As much as this a true statement, one has to have the knowledge to do it and do it right, right?

I posted my previous comment before reading this...YES, you are right. I hate spending time and effort on something I am unfamiliar with only to find out (best case) it didn't work when you're finished...OR...(worst case) failed at a later date when you need it most....like out in the boonies. I'm no McGyver, I have no problem saying I don't know anything about it. I don't have to prove to myself or anyone else I'm a mans man because I can fix shit. :blah::blah::blah:

NEXT :thumb:
 
Splicing sensor wires with crimp connectors might not be a good idea. The sensors read Ohms, to determine where the sensor is positioned. Crimp connectors can give you a false reading, if not right at the begining, for sure a couple months down the road. You could probably get away with soldering them, but at the cost of wire, the better and easier fix, would be to just replace the whole line. Not tellin, just sayin.:prof:
 
Splicing sensor wires with crimp connectors might not be a good idea. The sensors read Ohms, to determine where the sensor is positioned. Crimp connectors can give you a false reading, if not right at the begining, for sure a couple months down the road. You could probably get away with soldering them, but at the cost of wire, the better and easier fix, would be to just replace the whole line. Not tellin, just sayin.:prof:

I do believe that is the predicament the RV guy was in...he can't find replacement parts for it...:foul:
 
I do believe that is the prediament the RV guy was in...he can't find replacement parts for it...:foul:

Any light gauge, shielded cable would be fine. A full roll can be expensive, but R-Vac on Holt Blvd in Montclair, has all that crap, in whatever quantity you need.

And I won't bust your balls on the predicament thing either.:smirk:
 
Any light gauge, shielded cable would be fine. A full roll can be expensive, but R-Vac on Holt Blvd in Montclair, has all that crap, in whatever quantity you need.

And I won't bust your balls on the predicament thing either.:smirk:

:thumb:

WHA????? :devil:
 
Really its an easy fix and Timoyz is on the right track especially about the system operating off of resistance. Yes its gonna be expensive, especially if you replace all of the wiring from the monitor to the tanks. However you can do it the way Im going to explain and should lose little to no continuity. Like Timoyz said. solder the connections together, this is how we repair wire bundles that get damaged on our aircraft (full size ones not RC). So while your out getting your wire to make your splices you need to get some heat shrink tubing. Cut your heat shrink about a half of an inch longer than each side of your splice. Slip the heat shrink on BEFORE you solder your connections together. Once youve gotten your splice soldered up. Slide the heat shrink over the soldered connection and heat with a lighter till its a tight fit over your solder joint. I prefer to use the heat shrink over black electrical tape as its weather proof. Where the electrical tape will fail over time.
 
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