450F wr450 07 overheating?

how to tell and do if the bike is overheating?

  • yes

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • no

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • whatever

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
If your talking about engine coolant boiling over, make sure your coolant level is full, the radiator fins are clear of debris like mud and dirt, and none of the cooling hoses are kinked or restricted. If this all checks out try a different coolant, I've had good results from product called "engine ice" this is helpful when riding in slow trails or rocky terrain that requires a lot of clutch work. Speaking of the clutches, a tremendous amount of heat can result fom excessive slipping of the clutch. Usually you can smell a hot oil odor from the crank case vent as the clutch is closing in on meltdown status, if you notice this, you should shut down the bike for a cool down before damage is done.

i only managed to find putoline and ice cooler brands... are they any good?
 
Speaking of lean, re-installing a carb. or fuel injection throttle body, or any intake manifold with out new gaskets, or not correctly re-torqueing the bolts to factory spec. will cause "lean" running issues, so be advised.....
 
If you work it hard in the heat, yes, it will get hot and boil. First off, verify you are not too lean and replace the radiator cap. Also, the water pump shaft is a circle with 2 flat sides that fit inside the counter balancer. That shaft, along with the hole wears out, and actually won't turn the pump. A little by friction, but not enough to do any good. If all this checks out, go to like Steve said with the Engine Ice, or even Evans Waterless.

If this bike has a few hours on it, as in more then 2 valve adjustments, this is a quick easy check. Drain the coolant, pull off the water pump cover, and try turning the impeller back and forth. If it's worn, you'll feel the slop.

This is cheap insurance on a old bike.
 
If this bike has a few hours on it, as in more then 2 valve adjustments, this is a quick easy check. Drain the coolant, pull off the water pump cover, and try turning the impeller back and forth. If it's worn, you'll feel the slop.

This is cheap insurance on a old bike.
aren't you supposed to see a bit of water when changing oils if the water pumps torn?
 
Uh, no.If you’re draining and changing fluid anyway, it will cost you nothing to pop off the cover and check the slop on the impeller. Or better yet don’t, just put in the magic liquid and trust that it’s fixed.
 
Can’t say. Haven’t used them. Guess you’ll need to try them and report back with the results.
hey.. well ive been using the putoline ice cooler brand and its actually pretty good. engine is a lot cooler and its really doing well..
heres the thing thou.. ive noticed my clutch being lose lately.. meaning it doesnt really neutralize the bike after pulling it fully to the hand grip. i tried adjusting my clutch but still it still does the same.. i mean like i mis gear from 1st to 2nd and hits neutral instead.. its really hard to get to neutral from 1st gear.. and if im idling on 2nd gear and im holding the clutch back ... the bike still moves.. help with this?
 
Pretty much what 2wheels said, and if you still have problems, your cable may be stretched and need replaced. Also if the idle is too high it can cause these problems as well.
 
if you're doing lots of low speed technical terrain you're going to over heat a 4 stroke, an e fan will help greatly but its still happens, I have never noticed any real difference between one coolant or the other, but a higher pressure cap is cheap and will help a lot more than any perceived difference in temp due to coolant
 
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