can somebody help me how to deal with overheating and how to spot symptoms of overheating
450F wr450 07 overheating?
- Thread starter dirtmonkey
- Start date
If your talking about engine coolant boiling over, make sure your coolant level is full, the radiator fins are clear of debris like mud and dirt, and none of the cooling hoses are kinked or restricted. If this all checks out try a different coolant, I've had good results from product called "engine ice" this is helpful when riding in slow trails or rocky terrain that requires a lot of clutch work. Speaking of the clutches, a tremendous amount of heat can result fom excessive slipping of the clutch. Usually you can smell a hot oil odor from the crank case vent as the clutch is closing in on meltdown status, if you notice this, you should shut down the bike for a cool down before damage is done.
im gonna try a different coolant as youve suggested. im not sure if its available here in the philippines thou... anyhow..ive read something about a cure for overheating and thats the mixture of distilled water and coolant at 75/25% mixture... but some say it could cause rust inside the radiator..do you know anything about that or even tried doin it? .i did install aftermarket rad guards and a fan.. i run the fan everytime i go on technical routes...and when you say SLIPPING of the clutch.. do you mean FANNING if your on a 2 stroke? and ive noticed coolant being spat out the overflow/breather hose after doin technical uphills...
I don’t see a problem with running the anything freeze mix you spoke If, it sounds like you are trying all the right things to solve your problem. When I’m talking about slipping clutch, I mean when you are pulling the clutch in partially as you roll the throttle in order to get through mud and up hill sections For example.
If you work it hard in the heat, yes, it will get hot and boil. First off, verify you are not too lean and replace the radiator cap. Also, the water pump shaft is a circle with 2 flat sides that fit inside the counter balancer. That shaft, along with the hole wears out, and actually won't turn the pump. A little by friction, but not enough to do any good. If all this checks out, go to like Steve said with the Engine Ice, or even Evans Waterless.
when you say 75/25% coolant, what coolant are speaking of?? Antifreeze, the green stuff, does little to help with cooling. Also there should be no rust in this aluminum system, not much iron or steel in there. I use "engine ice" too. Jetting would be a way to get more fuel to the motor to help it stay cooler.
I ride 2 smokers, I purchase long lengths of over flow tubing, I route said tubing and aim it to my expansion pipe. If I smell sweet smoke, then she's a overheating! One thing to remember, pull off your cover to your water pump. If its gummed up with alloy corrosion, and all the passages are clogged, it not flowing. Its a good idea to flush your coolant system and verify that your pump area isn't corroded. After flushing it, fill it with a good ethylene glycol mix and you should be good to go. Verify that your radiators aren't clogged with mung, and always clean your scoot after riding, lubricate all cables, controls, and chain after washing. Good luck!
well as of now... im using perston coolants.
okay. well thanks a lot. did help getting in more info about it. ill have the bike checked jst like timoyz said in regards to the water pump and all... and i did order the engine ice coolant already. well see from there on.. keep yall posted how it turns out. thanks again. God speed
If the air fuel mixture is too lean, the engine may run hotter than normal, one indicator is to pull the plug, if it is a nice tan, or brown color, you are probably ok, if it's black, you are too rich and this is a non factor in the discussion.