trani oil drain hole is chipped

I have a couple of questions.
1. If I weld and retap should I weld the current threads and the chip, so when I go to tap it i make new threads all over. My thoughts are, if I only weld where the chip is, when I go to tap my new threads might not line up with the old...
2. If I go the sleeve way, won't I end up with a smaller hole? And I would have to fine a sleeve that would extend in the hole enough and not stick out to far..
3. If I go the jb way, will "oiling the plug screw" work to keep the jb from sticking to it? And you would use teflon spray to oil it?
4. I might just try the "expandle rubber plug" that slower suggested first...

Out of these four options which would you do? I was thinking look for sleeve first, then rubber plug, then jb, then #1...

On 1 I wouldn't worry about not getting it aligned. I like the insert best. I wouldn't care about losing some diameter. Just don't get too worried about pressure. Vented right there is really not too much. Whatever you do, I wouldn't get caught up in a 500 dollar fix and I would keep a watchful attitude.
 
George has a great story about making rings out of wire fence in a Baja 1000 race back in the day. Use what you can find in the field, repair it right when you get back.
 
What happened to people fixing stuff right? On the trail is one thing, but when it's on the stand in the barn, I just don't get it.

See we are similar in "not getting it". In my case I don't get why someone would put off riding so he could afford the time or the money to split a case to either have it welded or replaced when at least three of the fixes mentioned would have it back on the trail for under 25 dollars and the end result could end up being the same as replacing the case.

Not everyone has the resources to fix one they way you seem to be judging as "right". Though I am sure your local KTM dealer agrees with you, and not some of the rest of us.

I think I fix my own in an appropriate way. (And yes I have the welding equipment to do it, and can split the cases too.)
 
Checkout "QUICKSTEEL" Ive used it lots on car apps, it comes as a two layer putty and you just knead it between your fingers until you feel the heat reaction of the two compounds then apply a blob to a well cleaned surface.
Place the bolt in the remaining threaded hole before and push the QS in to the gap and you will create the thread on the inside using the bolt!, it sets hard as steel in an hour so leave it proud and use a gentle file to shape the outside,
Quite amazing stuff and it bonds to most materials and way less mess than JB!


Another one of those handy things to carry. About two inches of it stuffed into a baggie is a good thing to carry when riding further from your truck than you can push. Just swicth it out every month or so. I would love to see them market it in small packs, and if you know that they are somewhere, let me know.
 
See we are similar in "not getting it". In my case I don't get why someone would put off riding so he could afford the time or the money to split a case to either have it welded or replaced when at least three of the fixes mentioned would have it back on the trail for under 25 dollars and the end result could end up being the same as replacing the case.

Not everyone has the resources to fix one they way you seem to be judging as "right". Though I am sure your local KTM dealer agrees with you, and not some of the rest of us.

I think I fix my own in an appropriate way. (And yes I have the welding equipment to do it, and can split the cases too.)

Agreed....that's what long winters are for, I'll do as many temporary fixes as I think I can get away with, without having to tow or push the bike back to the truck. Of course the 5 1/2 months of off season allow me the time to budget time and money to fix it all right and get ready to tear the bikes up the next year.
 
yep. Where as oil is obviously very important to the engine's ability to keep running, keeping it in place doesn't need to be something akin to replacing a suspect connecting rod. It seals or NOT. Pretty easy to know pretty fast. Heck, do as suggested and plug the whole thing if you want. Then pop the clutch cover, lay it on it's side to dump and then refill if it means you arent riding until you can squeeze the money out of 4 or 5 pay checks.

Anyway, in answer to the question as asked, there is more than one way to keep the oil in place.
 
George has a great story about making rings out of wire fence in a Baja 1000 race back in the day. Use what you can find in the field, repair it right when you get back.

The one about Malcomb Smith breaking a case and leaking the oil out during a "1000" is pretty good too. He patched it, drained the forks into the rig, and rode on.

I think the best was Dick Miller getting some help from Preston Petty. They cut up the side of a camper belonging to some "volunteer" and made some plates to space up a slipping clutch. Hell, I would have just broken one in half and "doubled it". I liked their "repurposing the camper" though.
 
it is marketed under a different name than what i get over here, but I am going to ask my bearing house about it again in smaller quanities.
 
it is marketed under a different name than what i get over here, but I am going to ask my bearing house about it again in smaller quanities.
Thermosteel from what I'm finding online and yup I always have some in my car for emergencies, amazing stuff and can be slapped on to an active leak and will seal and harden! :thumb:
 
Time, energy, $, tools, and knowledge...
If you can afford the time and energy part out a couple of local cheap bikes through eBay or Craigslist etc and get to know all the big and small parts that make up and make your bike work, you will get to see where bad wear and weather affect tolerances In rubbers, hoses levers and mount bolts frame and component condition and important shit you otherwise wouldn't think about when spending you're hard earned!
If you have enough basic tools and need.to fix a problem on your own go for it but photograph each step and always put the mount bolt back where it came from as soon as you have the part your working on off and in your hand.
Cmsnl.com will give you free microfiche access for all models from the big four, Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki and Partzilla.com will cross reference the part number from cmsnl and tell you every bike the said part was fitted on and give you a US price and delivery rate rather than CMS € price from Holland!
 
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