trani oil drain hole is chipped

O

ossagp

You can weld the case. There is some decent rod that you can use with a common propane torch. Then you just have to hope it will take drilling and tapping. I would have to see more, but depending on how badly you want to resist tearing it down there are a variety of things you can do. Problem is most of us don't want for our rides to look like those terms that Palmer used. That one looks like you could save it with a sleeve type of insert. the jb or other epoxy can be viable. teflon spray is your friend there. you can even oil the plug well, screw it into place and then apply the epoxy. if you do that, clean it (the case) good with a degreaser. I like the citrus based ones. Some starting fluid after that. Take a crayon and make the areas you dont want the epoxy to stick to if it covers them, like the top of the plug.

An insert would work well too. I wouldn't have a problem with welding it in place and then blowing what is left out via one of the vents as the engine is turned on its side. You will probably have less left over than you would find in a rebuild. if you really want to get it cleaned out squirt in shaving cream (about a can ought to do it) and then blow it back out the hole through another vent. (its the same trick lots of us use if we helicoil a spark plug hole or want an injector tip out of a diesel engine.) welding shops sell things you can place in the hole to keep the hole round as you go.
 
O

ossagp

PALMER84ONE:
They used to say "Mickey Mouse", "Jerry Rig", Nigger Rig", and even "Macgyver", and now, we even have "BK it"! Might as well plug the whole with a wine cork, enjoy the wine, get hammer and slam it in. :wave:
Click to expand...
You forgot any mention of the greatest state for producing motorcycle racers, Oklahoma.
 
timoyz

timoyz

Fauck that epoxy crap. That's good when you're out for an emergency, but if it is on the stand, in the barn, do work. Split the cases, and Ebay a new one, or find someone with a TIG machine, and do it right.
 
Redordead89

Redordead89

Redordead89:
Checkout "QUICKSTEEL" Ive used it lots on car apps, it comes as a two layer putty and you just knead it between your fingers until you feel the heat reaction of the two compounds then apply a blob to a well cleaned surface.
Place the bolt in the remaining threaded hole before and push the QS in to the gap and you will create the thread on the inside using the bolt!, it sets hard as steel in an hour so leave it proud and use a gentle file to shape the outside,
Quite amazing stuff and it bonds to most materials and way less mess than JB!
Click to expand...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cargo-QuikS...4530189&sr=8-1&keywords=quiksteel+epoxy+putty
 
Mihylo33

Mihylo33

ossagp:
You can weld the case. There is some decent rod that you can use with a common propane torch. Then you just have to hope it will take drilling and tapping. I would have to see more, but depending on how badly you want to resist tearing it down there are a variety of things you can do. Problem is most of us don't want for our rides to look like those terms that Palmer used. That one looks like you could save it with a sleeve type of insert. the jb or other epoxy can be viable. teflon spray is your friend there. you can even oil the plug well, screw it into place and then apply the epoxy. if you do that, clean it (the case) good with a degreaser. I like the citrus based ones. Some starting fluid after that. Take a crayon and make the areas you dont want the epoxy to stick to if it covers them, like the top of the plug.

An insert would work well too. I wouldn't have a problem with welding it in place and then blowing what is left out via one of the vents as the engine is turned on its side. You will probably have less left over than you would find in a rebuild. if you really want to get it cleaned out squirt in shaving cream (about a can ought to do it) and then blow it back out the hole through another vent. (its the same trick lots of us use if we helicoil a spark plug hole or want an injector tip out of a diesel engine.) welding shops sell things you can place in the hole to keep the hole round as you go.
Click to expand...


I learned some nice tricks right there. Thanks!:thumb:
 
K

ktmdb

ossagp:
You can weld the case. There is some decent rod that you can use with a common propane torch. Then you just have to hope it will take drilling and tapping. I would have to see more, but depending on how badly you want to resist tearing it down there are a variety of things you can do. Problem is most of us don't want for our rides to look like those terms that Palmer used. That one looks like you could save it with a sleeve type of insert. the jb or other epoxy can be viable. teflon spray is your friend there. you can even oil the plug well, screw it into place and then apply the epoxy. if you do that, clean it (the case) good with a degreaser. I like the citrus based ones. Some starting fluid after that. Take a crayon and make the areas you dont want the epoxy to stick to if it covers them, like the top of the plug.

An insert would work well too. I wouldn't have a problem with welding it in place and then blowing what is left out via one of the vents as the engine is turned on its side. You will probably have less left over than you would find in a rebuild. if you really want to get it cleaned out squirt in shaving cream (about a can ought to do it) and then blow it back out the hole through another vent. (its the same trick lots of us use if we helicoil a spark plug hole or want an injector tip out of a diesel engine.) welding shops sell things you can place in the hole to keep the hole round as you go.
Click to expand...

I have a couple of questions.
1. If I weld and retap should I weld the current threads and the chip, so when I go to tap it i make new threads all over. My thoughts are, if I only weld where the chip is, when I go to tap my new threads might not line up with the old...
2. If I go the sleeve way, won't I end up with a smaller hole? And I would have to fine a sleeve that would extend in the hole enough and not stick out to far..
3. If I go the jb way, will "oiling the plug screw" work to keep the jb from sticking to it? And you would use teflon spray to oil it?
4. I might just try the "expandle rubber plug" that slower suggested first...

Out of these four options which would you do? I was thinking look for sleeve first, then rubber plug, then jb, then #1...
 
2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

ktmdb:
I have a couple of questions.
1. If I weld and retap should I weld the current threads and the chip, so when I go to tap it i make new threads all over. My thoughts are, if I only weld where the chip is, when I go to tap my new threads might not line up with the old...
2. If I go the sleeve way, won't I end up with a smaller hole? And I would have to fine a sleeve that would extend in the hole enough and not stick out to far..
3. If I go the jb way, will "oiling the plug screw" work to keep the jb from sticking to it? And you would use teflon spray to oil it?
4. I might just try the "expandle rubber plug" that slower suggested first...

Out of these four options which would you do? I was thinking look for sleeve first, then rubber plug, then jb, then #1...
Click to expand...

Plug is fastest and cheapest. It may not work but on the bright side, it won't take much money or time to find out if it fails. I would try the jb weld next, cause if it doesn't hold, your just back where you started, nothing lost, if you can find a sleeve, I'd try that next. And finally the weld and retap, as far as the threads not lining up, don't worry, if it doesn't tap right, you can use a heli coil and that would for sure fix er up.
 
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