Suzuki RM 250

It ran good for about 30 mins then ran like shit and took carb to my buddy and now it runs better but I think I still need to replace the plug again I pulled it and it looked like this after maybe an hour of riding but now that the carb is cleaned again I'm going to put another plug in it and adjust air fuel screw how many turns out should I go. And I'm currently running 93 octane 32-1 ratio with klotz 2 stroke oil
 

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Get a manual for the bike,like Mike said check the compression and clean the carb well, if the compression is ok (preferably 175-200, under 150 and I'd be looking at a new top end)..... look up the jetting and needle position specs, according to the temperature and elevation of your location, re jet it acordingly and as andy stated, set the float . Install a new plug and see how the bike runs now, if it seems to run well, pull the plug after a couple hours of riding and inspect the plug, you should see a light tan to ashy brown color on the plug. If not we will discuss which way for you to go then. If it doesn't run well tell us what is happening at what rpm range and we will go from there.
 
I replaced the brake pads and had to beat it with a hammer to get on lol and when I press the brake nothing happens looks like it has a little fluid in it.
 

SRAD97750

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I replaced the brake pads and had to beat it with a hammer to get on
That would be your problem.
The pads probably got damaged when you pounded them across the ridge of a rotor, as well.
Pull it apart and inspect the damage. Any burrs are no good in the pad material.
I have had pads come too thick (too much meat) from eBay and had to be 'modified' to fit in the caliper. They performed great after the clearance was right. Make sure your piston is fully retracting into the caliper and be sure to measure to see if there is even clearance. -BIG DAN :thumb:
 
So instead of asking what could cause your brake to "seize" the question should have been "what can I damage if i use a hammer to install brake parts?" I am thinking really hard right now and I can only think of one process I would use a steel hammer on when working on one of mine.
 
I replaced the brake pads and had to beat it with a hammer to get on lol and when I press the brake nothing happens looks like it has a little fluid in it.

before you installed the pads were you able to push the piston back into the caliper bore? If not you still need a caliper, and possibly another set of pads depending on how much damage was caused by your hammer installation method.
 
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