RM250 Rm 250 rebuild. Reeds,sprockets.
- Thread starter Omniguff
- Start date
Thats sort of an odd ball set up for gears. The way I understand it (mine is anyway) Stock is 13 front 49 Rear. Up on tooth size in the front is like going down 2-3 teeth in the rear. So if you think about it. Your pretty close to what stock would be as far as your sprocket set up goes. I am currently running a 13front 49 rear. It does great on the track and the trail. But I also run a 52 in the rear depending on where Im going to ride. The 13 52 set up will give you lots of bottom end power. But you will find the bike wanting another gear at cruise speeds and especially if your wide open. Hear is my suggestion. Buy another counter sprock, and final drive sprocket. Make sure you buy the steel ones. They last forever and dont cost much. I would get them in 13 tooth and 49 tooth. That way you can mix them up and see what works best for you.
Thats allot of mulla for aluminum renthal crap
and how does this help the OP?
Like some of the other stated, it really depends on the terrain and type of riding you do as to how you want to setup the gearing. Give some more of info on what and where you ride.
an AL chain eh? I'm surprised it hasn't shredded yet That being said, If you are going for reliability, a good set of steel sprockets and a chain of your choice will last you a good race season if maintained after every race. IMO AL sprockets wear out way too fast because AL is such a soft metal compared to the steel chain that rolls on the sprocket. Some people will try to argue weight savings for the AL sprocket, but i call BS, Its like 20oz for a steel sprocket, where as an AL sprocket made of good quality AL will weigh 16oz, and thats so little of a difference you wont notice it. But, Pick whatever you like, and run it.
My steel sprocket is at least 2x as heavy as my al sprocket, at a bare minimum...
thanks troll, i knew i could count on you to discredit what i say!
The whole point is, in the grander scheme of things the bike weighs over 200 pounds and you are arguing saving 1 pound over toughness. It's just illogical
I agree with that ^ not like we could legit feel it
The thing that matters is the shape of the teeth and how they grab, and of corse gearingWell if you didn't blatantly give wrong information, i wouldn't correct you, tard..... Irun steel sprockets because its what I can afford, but it is a significant weight gain on the bike.
I run a 13/51 combo on my 06 RM 2fiddy.. seems to work well on the large tracks with lots of elevation changes or the sand tracks we have here.. for the more national sized tracks I run a 13/50 combo so I have longer legs against the 450's since those tracks are wider and longer... except Unadilla... I run a 51 rear there as well.
As for the V-force... Ditch that POS and buy the Boysen pro or power reeds. Take the money you save and buy your girl a nice steak dinner..maybe 2 dinners.
I buy Primary Drive Chains... the heavy duty ones... I also buy RM aluminum sprockets and get a season out of them as well... more $$$ saved... why aluminum over steel??? rolling mass..... same reason why we MXers use light duty tubes...
Have a good one
As for the V-force... Ditch that POS and buy the Boysen pro or power reeds. Take the money you save and buy your girl a nice steak dinner..maybe 2 dinners.
I buy Primary Drive Chains... the heavy duty ones... I also buy RM aluminum sprockets and get a season out of them as well... more $$$ saved... why aluminum over steel??? rolling mass..... same reason why we MXers use light duty tubes...
Have a good one
The point is for the bike to rev faster/speed up faster with less mass in the drive system...
Now, I will say for anything but a 250f or 125, an aluminum sprocket is going to get destroyed quickly. So unless you have the budget to keep buying sprockets and think that the lower weight is worth it, I suggest a steel one...