Rims

So you want shorter "gears" (Shift more often/quicker) and more torque/acceleration, right? Go UP in teeth on the REAR sprocket and not the front. I'd never change the front sprocket unless you're looking to make a drastic change, going down 1 tooth on the front is about the same as going up 3-4 teeth on the rear. Here's a neat little calculator that will give you all sorts of numbers. :ride:

http://www.sprocketcalculator.com/
James,

Take this information and make a thread in the tech info. When I first started riding and learning about gearing this would have come in handy.
 
James,

Take this information and make a thread in the tech info. When I first started riding and learning about gearing this would have come in handy.
Great Idea Rack. I am currently running stock on the 450 13/49 and will try a 14/49 on my next stand removal ride and see how that works out. It's about a 3.5 increase for my scooter which should give me a little more spread from 2nd to 3rd...
 
:confused: Huh?

2 Strikes, going for the 3rd? :smirk: Don't we have a "FAIL" thread somewhere? :lol:

I think what you're trying to say is "Up on the rear or down on the front, for shorter gears"? :noidea:
for some reason when i was posting that i was thinking more teeth on the rear=more teeth on the CS sprocket no idea why either
 

James

Staff member
for some reason when i was posting that i was thinking more teeth on the rear=more teeth on the CS sprocket no idea why either
:lol: When I first went to change my gearing I had a long argument...err...debate with a buddy on if I needed to go bigger or smaller on the rear. Turns out I was wrong :bonk:, so now I don't forget which way it goes. :smirk:
 
:lol: When I first went to change my gearing I had a long argument...err...debate with a buddy on if I needed to go bigger or smaller on the rear. Turns out I was wrong :bonk:, so now I don't forget which way it goes. :smirk:
Bigger on the rear gives you more torque (@the wheel) and smaller gives you more top speed :lol: opposite with the CS sprocket
 
I knew what I was talking about the first time then :noidea: :picard:

So anyways, any suggestions? I have no idea what I'm currently running tooth-wise but I really want my gears a bit shorter :doh: How many teeth should I go up on the rear for a pretty noticeable difference?
 
I knew what I was talking about the first time then :noidea: :picard:

So anyways, any suggestions? I have no idea what I'm currently running tooth-wise but I really want my gears a bit shorter :doh: How many teeth should I go up on the rear for a pretty noticeable difference?
ok... lets try this again :doh: Try going down 1 tooth on your CS sprocket, so if you have a 13, get a 12, if thats helps, but not enough go up a tooth or 2 on the rear sprocket, and you should be set! :thumb:

KTM 300 E/XC
Engine Type: Liquid-cooled 2 stroke
Displacement: 297cc
Bore/Stroke: 72 X 73mm
Transmission: Five-speed WR
Gearing: 14/52
Chain: Regina o-ring
Tank Capacity: 13 liters (3.4 gal.)
Carburetion: Keihin 38 PWK D-slide
Ignition: SEM CDI 130w lighting
Forks: Marzocchi Magnum 45
Suspension Travel: 300mm
Front Brake: Hydraulic disc
Front Tire: Michelin MP11 90/90X21
Rear Suspension: Ohlins Type 3A
Suspension Travel: 345mm
Rear Brake: Hydraulic disc
Rear Tire: Michelin MP11 130/80X18
Seat Height: 945mm
Wheelbase: 1468mm
Ground Clearance: 386mm
Claimed Dry Weight: 229 lbs.
Suggested Retail Price: $5698

There are the specs for your bike, so get a 13t CS sprocket, and you can go up on the rear still
 
ok... lets try this again :doh: Try going down 1 tooth on your CS sprocket, so if you have a 13, get a 12, if thats helps, but not enough go up a tooth or 2 on the rear sprocket, and you should be set! :thumb:

KTM 300 E/XC
Engine Type: Liquid-cooled 2 stroke
Displacement: 297cc
Bore/Stroke: 72 X 73mm
Transmission: Five-speed WR
Gearing: 14/52
Chain: Regina o-ring
Tank Capacity: 13 liters (3.4 gal.)
Carburetion: Keihin 38 PWK D-slide
Ignition: SEM CDI 130w lighting
Forks: Marzocchi Magnum 45
Suspension Travel: 300mm
Front Brake: Hydraulic disc
Front Tire: Michelin MP11 90/90X21
Rear Suspension: Ohlins Type 3A
Suspension Travel: 345mm
Rear Brake: Hydraulic disc
Rear Tire: Michelin MP11 130/80X18
Seat Height: 945mm
Wheelbase: 1468mm
Ground Clearance: 386mm
Claimed Dry Weight: 229 lbs.
Suggested Retail Price: $5698

There are the specs for your bike, so get a 13t CS sprocket, and you can go up on the rear still
And CS sprockets are also loads cheaper, and easier to replace...Not to mention mine is looking like it needs replacing some time because the teeth, while still sharp, are pretty warped :smirk:
 
And CS sprockets are also loads cheaper, and easier to replace...Not to mention mine is looking like it needs replacing some time because the teeth, while still sharp, are pretty warped :smirk:
It sounds like it needs replacing now. The teeth of a new sprocket are not sharp. They get sharp as the sprocket wears. This is what it looks like when new:

 
Travace, I'm running Warp 9's on my bike with heavy duty Buchanan spokes. I'm really happy with this set up. I've taken some hard hits to the rear that I was sure would have left a flat spot on the rim. However, both rims are still running true.
I bought them from Rocky Mountain ATV for around 80.00 each. They weren't displayed on their online catalog so I e-mailed them asking if they could sell just the rims. They sent me a phone number to call and I ordered them by phone.
 
It sounds like it needs replacing now. The teeth of a new sprocket are not sharp. They get sharp as the sprocket wears. This is what it looks like when new:

:noidea: I thought it was just a design variation. Anyways, checked today whilst cleaning my filter, I'm running a 14t currently, so I guess I'll try a 13 when I can scrape up a few bucks.
 
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