125 quick brain storm?
- Thread starter spooly
- Start date
They should be Exactly the same for optimal performance. 
Do you have a manual? If so it will tell you what factory settings are supposed to be for compression and rebound. Then you can adjust them accordingly to you liking. Or.......... You can just pick a side. Run both the compression and rebound to the left (counter clockwise) till they stop. PLEASE ensure that you count the (Clicks) or detents as you go. Write down the final number for compression and rebound. Adjust them back to where they were. Then do the same thing to the opposite side. If they match then your fine. If they didnt match chose a side and make sure they match. If your still having compression and rebound problems you either need to adjust them to your liking. Or....... you may not have equal amount of fork oil in the fork tubes. At which point. I would take them apart redue the fork and wiper seals and fresh oil. While you have it aport inspect for broken parts in the fork tube assemblies. Or you may be heavier than what the fork springs are rated for. There are alot of variables. But if you want a good safe riding experience properly sprung shocks and forks should be your first priority after a good running engine.
ya iv done the seals and oil.. they seam pretty good..its just the adjusting screws.iv counted the clicks from point 0 and get more clicks out of one then the other.(on both compression and rebound).so i set um to where stock is i think its 10 in the manual..and judged it by pressing on the forks one in each hand and seeing if they compress roughly the same and rebound roughly at the same speed then put them back in the clamps and adjusted from there to suit my preference and shock..just wondering if miner inconsistentise between the front forks would affect handling much or will the 2 balance out?? does that make sense even? any tips?
Well either you have two different forks that fit in the mounts (possible) or the adjustment screws have been over adjusted in either direction both compression and rebound. Which is possible also, but Im thinking if that were the case it would have broken the needle that controls the flow of oil for the compression and rebound. Which leads me to believe that you may have two different year forks. Which would make sense if they are the same diameter but from a different year. The amount of adjustment for compression and rebound can and do vary from year to year. But the fork diameters can remain the same for consecutive years.
Clickers fail...
Might be junk in one of them, or just broken in general. Typically the only repair is to replace that portion of the fork. -BIG DAN
i think your wright Dan im going to try and sorce second hand caps..or just second hand forks i can rip.. ill post pics to give ye a better idea what im dealing with
ok from what i gather after another look. if my memory serves me wright..seated position right hand fork 26 top 16 bottom left hand fork 27 top 17 bottom ...wright hand fork with the bad clicker shown in pic 1 but still seems to work fine. i couldn't get a good look at the bottom clickers to see what there like.. 
i replaced the seal on the left fork recently and only changed the oil in 1 fork as i thought the other oil seemed ok ..what's the life span of fork oil?! this is the oil i used
i just don't like the feel of the forks..maby iv too much oil in even tho i filled according to the manual..i don't seem to be getting enough travel on the downward compression and they seem labored.. i know there old forks should i just learn to live with um.. maby im just too inexperienced to get um set up wright..i was looking at a rm 80 today and the forks seemd soft yet responsive that's what im trying to get out of mine..
i replaced the seal on the left fork recently and only changed the oil in 1 fork as i thought the other oil seemed ok ..what's the life span of fork oil?! this is the oil i used
i just don't like the feel of the forks..maby iv too much oil in even tho i filled according to the manual..i don't seem to be getting enough travel on the downward compression and they seem labored.. i know there old forks should i just learn to live with um.. maby im just too inexperienced to get um set up wright..i was looking at a rm 80 today and the forks seemd soft yet responsive that's what im trying to get out of mine..
Your probably fine. But that left had for fork adjustment screws top and bottom where probably over adjusted just or forced a little. So before the screw bottomed out or wouldnt turn any more. It should have hit the detent (clicked) and then maybe went a little bit more and then just stopped but not really (clicked) or when into another detent. If so the last actual (click) or detent you felt is where its supposed to be. So it sounds to me that your adjustment screws may have been forced a little on that one side with the greater adjustments. You can do one of two things dont ever over adjust those screws and live with it. Or replace them top and bottom adjustment screws. But you have have to replace other stuff associated with them if you replace them.
Now. You stated that you only replaced one side fork seal and wiper. Big no no. when you replace the brakes on your car. Do you only replace just one side? Nope, you do both sides. Same thing applies to your forks seals. What you do to one side you should always do to the other. Ive never purchased fork and wiper seals that didnt come in pairs. Always replace them all at the same time. So if one fork starts leaking you really should replace the other side. Leaking or not.
So match up the compression and rebound setting to the smaller number of adjustments. And replace all of the fork seals and wipers. And replace the oil in both forks with equal amount of oil. Or if your not sure. Call up your local bike shop and talk to somebody in the service dept. Find out what they think and go from there. Sometimes actually being able to talk to somebody instead of trying to understand what Im trying to discribe in text is much easier.
Now. You stated that you only replaced one side fork seal and wiper. Big no no. when you replace the brakes on your car. Do you only replace just one side? Nope, you do both sides. Same thing applies to your forks seals. What you do to one side you should always do to the other. Ive never purchased fork and wiper seals that didnt come in pairs. Always replace them all at the same time. So if one fork starts leaking you really should replace the other side. Leaking or not.
So match up the compression and rebound setting to the smaller number of adjustments. And replace all of the fork seals and wipers. And replace the oil in both forks with equal amount of oil. Or if your not sure. Call up your local bike shop and talk to somebody in the service dept. Find out what they think and go from there. Sometimes actually being able to talk to somebody instead of trying to understand what Im trying to discribe in text is much easier.
Your type of oil is fine. At least its the right kind of oil. And if your not getting enough compression (bottoming out if you will) then dont have enough oil. If your super soft on you compression settings and its not compressing enough then you have to much oil. There are a lot of variables. Enough or not enough oil. Correct compression setting for what your looking for. Correct spring rate for your weight and type of riding. Its almost worth your while to just remove the shocks send them off to some place like Pro Circuit, or Race Tech and have them do it. Tell them what kind of bike, how much you weigh in full gear, the type of riding you do (Moto Cross, Arena Cross, Desert, Trails whatever. They can do all kinds of cool thing to make your suspension perfect for you and your type or riding. But........ it aint cheap. But once they are done with it. Then you can just maintain your shock seal and oil as needed and adjust your set up as needed should you need to change up your riding conditions from day to day.
