450F Just got my first db a 07 yami yzf 450

G

gdhillon

Okay so after some online research I am pretty sure it is my clutch 'fibers' that are causing the drag.
I took the bike for a short ride today just to get fuel and a little rip around a meadow (maybe 20 mins). When I got to the gas station I could not get it into neutral while it was running at all. So I turned the bike off and then one half up and there was neutral (I wish I could do that while the bike was running). I assume the clutch not disengaging fully is really hard on the tranny so I'd like to resolve this issue as quick as possible.

I will pull apart the clutch on my days off, can I lean the bike flat onto the clutch lever side to prevent oil from spilling out? Or do I have to drain the oil before I check the clutch? What clutches do you guys recommend?

Lastly, someone earlier on here suggested I get an eight inch play from my clutch lever to the perch. Is there an adjustment jam nut I can do this with? Would my clutch cable not having the eight play cause it to 'drag' like it does?
 
2Wheels

2Wheels

Yea there are inline double nuts and the big wheel at the perch that adjust the slack in the cable (which is most likely the problem here) if you haven't adj the cable do so before changing plates. Any yeah can lay it over. Clutch slipping is more a symptom of worn fiber than grabbing. Grab would suggest the friction plate has plenty of material left for the job, or the basket is notched. Did you click the second manual link
I checked it and it worked for me. Plenty of good info although tedious. A hard copy would be best but PDF will get you started
 
O

ossagp

gdhillon:
Okay so I figured out how to start her. I Google it and found a guy that said to give the throttle 2 or 3 twists after you turn the fuel back on then kick (choke on as well). Doing it this way fires the bike up on the first kick.

As for the clutch lever to perch it doesn't seem to have any play. Are the 2 plastic screw looking things on the clutch cable where I would adjust it? Or is the plastic juat a cover for a jam nut or something?

Lol no where I'm from there is people who like to be dishonest but there's also honest people. Seeing how the bike starts good hot and cold can I assume the valves are good. Or is it best to check them with a feeler Guage?

2 wheels thank you for the link but it just took me to yamis website
Click to expand...

If there was no play, I would guess the former owner tried to cure the clutch drag by over tightening the cable adjusters. If you want to eliminate the drag and cant get rid of it with the adjusters (don't go overboard or you burn the clutch up of course) then you will need to open it up, and see what can be saved. Springs that wear unevenly can cause some drag and some complain that notching of the basket is usually the cause. A file can help the notches but those return pretty fast.
 
CDA

CDA

I had an 07 YZ450f and the clutch was bullet proof. As Timo said, check the routing of the cable and make sure it is routed correctly. Also adjust the black wheel on the clutch perch and see if you get play back.

The little lever on the bars in not a hot start, it is actually to help start the bike when cold. I used to pull mine is and kick. It allows the bike to be kicked over easy and it will start right up. Works great when super cold outside. You will enjoy the bike.
BC Bike.JPG
 
G

gdhillon

2Wheels:
Yea there are inline double nuts and the big wheel at the perch that adjust the slack in the cable (which is most likely the problem here) if you haven't adj the cable do so before changing plates. Any yeah can lay it over. Clutch slipping is more a symptom of worn fiber than grabbing. Grab would suggest the friction plate has plenty of material left for the job, or the basket is notched. Did you click the second manual link
I checked it and it worked for me. Plenty of good info although tedious. A hard copy would be best but PDF will get you started
Click to expand...
I did but I haven't printed it out yet I will have to do that on days off.
 
2Wheels

2Wheels

I print the pertinent to current task pages and torque specs, then soon enough I have a pretty good stack. Only because the whole thing is 400 pages or something, and in multiple languages, and mine wouldnt let me just print the whole file as it said protected. I forget how I got around it but I did
 
G

gdhillon

2Wheels:
I print the pertinent to current task pages and torque specs, then soon enough I have a pretty good stack. Only because the whole thing is 400 pages or something, and in multiple languages, and mine wouldnt let me just print the whole file as it said protected. I forget how I got around it but I did
Click to expand...
That's a good idea, I'll have to get a binder with pretty big rings eventually Haha
 
O

ossagp

I have kept binders on most of the bikes I ever owned, just so I could get to the info needed quickly, anything from clearances to jetting i liked etc. work done. lots of us have owned many of them at the same time or come back to the same model or similar ones. If I could just find the one for my 72 cz250 (purchased new.)
 
timoyz

timoyz

I'll go one farther and say to check the water pump bearing play. They get worn and the fit into the side of the crank gets to be fatal if not kept an eye on.
 
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