450F Just got my first db a 07 yami yzf 450

I've owned cruisers and crotch rockets before but never a dirtbike. This thing is gnarly.

One thing that is still hard for me tho is starting. I looked up online and the throttle needs to be blipped twice then I pretty much kick like crazy (im 150# so it takes a bit lol) Is there a decompression valve of some sort on these bikes. There is a small lever above the clutch but according to google its only for hot starting.

Another thing is after I stop the bike from a ride it seems like the clutch doesn't fully engage, and by that I mean when I am stopped in first with the clutch lever all the way in the bike will 'walk' when I let off the brake. Is this a normal dirtbike thing?

Also, can these clutches be 'slipped' like you can on a streetbike?
 
Just so you don't confuse people (i am glad to see you clarified), when a clutch is engaged, that means the plates are pushed TOGETHER by the springs. That is what it takes to transmit power to the mainshaft in the transmission. (that all means you can go forward.) So yours will not entirely disengage. First, I would adjust the cable play. Make sure you have about an 1/8" of an inch of freeplay between the clutch handle and the perch it is attached to. If you still get too much drag, it is time to look inside at eht clutch for worn parts. A little bit of drag is usually felt.

Slip them and burn them all you want. They sell plates in every catalog or online supplier for yzf's. Lots of people "clutch". I cant think of why I would do much of it on a 450, but I am fond of it one my 125's.
 
Hard starting could be the exh valves tightening up. Check or have them checked depending on where your ability lies. Finding tdc is important also.
Next 450 I get will be EFI the carbs are a ragin pain on those bikes imo. Get an aftermarket pilot screw that is finger turnable if it doesnt have one already. Should have been a factory item the stocker is rediculous.
 
Okay ya sorry dis engaged is what I was trying to get at. I'll check for the play. It doesnt have to much drag like light pressure on the front brake will keep it at bay.

Another thing is the fork seals are leaking like a bastard and the front wheel bearing seems to have more play then I'd like.

For starting I think it might just be my scrawny ass lol, the fellow did say he adjusted the valves a little while ago. It seemed to start good for him but he was prob mid 200s. I've never liked carbs myself but I've always wanted a db and got all giddy with this one. My old bike 02 kawi zx6r had 4 carbs, I am glad I never had to sync them up.

So when I shut the bike off I need to turn the petcock off everytime? Is the fuel gravity fed or is there a fuel pump somewheres?
 
Some feeler gauges will tell you more about the valves than you can guess. Maybe where you are street bike users always tell the truth (I know you are new to dirt bikes). Valve clearances are the first thing I want to know about a used dirt bike.

No fuel pump on that one. Turning the tap off is never a bad idea when parked. Guys who can't tell you the last time the float level was checked on their bike, or that think the printed range of movement on the float is "the setting" need to be strictly religious about it.

Fork seals are a doable thing for you, but have a manual and get or make some seal drivers before you begin.

Wheel bearings should be dealt with RIGHT NOW.

Let me see, remind me of why I think you need to do as my first sentence suggests. :thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
I turn off my fuel on my way to the truck when I'm done for the day, and let it idle out. Then for
good measure I lean it over. I don't want fuel sitting in the bowl period. free manual if you dont have one
http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/index.php
You Just have to wade through the moto aktenklung

I let the fuel sit in the tank,lines.whatever is in the bowl, for a week or the whole winter (5 months ) then in the spring, turn on the gas prime the crank case with a couple slow turns of the kick start, and so far over the years never had a problem starting first try in the spring. never have any carb issues associated with gumming up.
 
Okay so I figured out how to start her. I Google it and found a guy that said to give the throttle 2 or 3 twists after you turn the fuel back on then kick (choke on as well). Doing it this way fires the bike up on the first kick.

As for the clutch lever to perch it doesn't seem to have any play. Are the 2 plastic screw looking things on the clutch cable where I would adjust it? Or is the plastic juat a cover for a jam nut or something?

Lol no where I'm from there is people who like to be dishonest but there's also honest people. Seeing how the bike starts good hot and cold can I assume the valves are good. Or is it best to check them with a feeler Guage?

2 wheels thank you for the link but it just took me to yamis website
 
You picked a good ride, the yami 5 valve makes most other newer 4t's look bad in the reliability department, and the SSS suspension was the best out of the box stuff we had gotten up to that point, and even today its extremely good.
Hard starting could be the valves, its a good idea to check them especially on a new to you bike.
There is no decompression lever on an 07, there is a mechanism on the exhaust cam that takes care of that for you. Try adjusting the clutch, you should have a dimes width of free play between the lever and the perch, if not, the clutch plates and basket are extremely easy to get to for inspection.
 
I let the fuel sit in the tank,lines.whatever is in the bowl, for a week or the whole winter.. never have any carb issues associated with gumming up.

Ah yeah I actually use ethanol free gas and still I don't let fuel sit. I'm just nutty like that. Last bike I bought as a non runner, I pulled the carb and found more green stuff than a snoop dog tour bus. Not sure how long it had been sitting, but it was too long.
 
Ah yeah I actually use ethanol free gas and still I don't let fuel sit. I'm just nutty like that. Last bike I bought as a non runner, I pulled the carb and found more green stuff than a snoop dog tour bus. Not sure how long it had been sitting, but it was too long.

I like experimenting, how long will gas be good, how extreme can I run my pre mix ratio, how long can I run a top end before it grenades, how many years will a epoxy repair work on a broken crank case on a RM? (5 years and counting) I get a lot of crap from some of the by the book members on here, but I figure I'm gaining
Knowledge in what my bikes tolerances are. It's almost a game to me I guess.
 
I like experimenting, how long will gas be good, how extreme can I run my pre mix ratio, how long can I run a top end before it grenades, how many years will a epoxy repair work on a broken crank case on a RM? (5 years and counting) I get a lot of crap from some of the by the book members on here, but I figure I'm gaining
Knowledge in what my bikes tolerances are. It's almost a game to me I guess.
Kx450f is about to hit the 100 plus hour mark on the top end despite me being guaranteed by some others that it should have exploded opening a black hole and ending life as we know it
 
Kx450f is about to hit the 100 plus hour mark on the top end despite me being guaranteed by some others that it should have exploded opening a black hole and ending life as we know it

How do you think I broke the case 5 years ago on my zook?.....boy it was running FAF right before she pulled the pin, that bike always runs its strongest just before something catastrophic occurs to the engine.
 
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