the squirt is the accel pump. Different than the pilot or fuel screw. The pilot and fuel screw regulate the low speed idle and off idle mixture. If it didnt start with start fluid it could be because you twisted the throttle so many times looking at the squirt, that it is now flooded. It could also be the valves and several other things. You just have to start doing some things to figure it out. ALWAYS do the cheap and easy things first. Even just a new plug sometimes fixes many problems.
250F Crf250r wont start / starts extremely hard. Wont idle
- Thread starter 2001yamahashee
- Start date
Alright i still havent cleaned the carb but i think i may have found the problem let me know what you guys think. I checked the valves again and as long as im checking them right with the fealer gauge they are in spec. I finally decided to get a leak down tester. I put the engine at top dead center on the compression stroke and pressurized the cylinder. There was air coming out of the carb but no where else. So that means my intake valves are probably bad right?
also If it clicks right before its at top dead center that mens its on compression stroke right? Either way i checked it on both stokes just to be sure and somthing always leaked
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what you were watching shoot was the accelerator pump, you will want to check the jets, float height, and needle position.
Unless you're not sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke, then the valves are either in spec or they aren't, if you think about how the cam operates it is quite easy to figure out the point at which all valves are closed.
Unless you're not sure you're at TDC on the compression stroke, then the valves are either in spec or they aren't, if you think about how the cam operates it is quite easy to figure out the point at which all valves are closed.
I know for sure i was at tdc when i checked clearances. But when i did the leak down test i had the valve cover on. I still ligned up the dot on the side of the case though
You'll want to make sure that all valves are closed when you perform your test. This can not be done off the mark on the flywheel alone.
I did do the test on both strokes to be sure i wasnt on the wrong one. But your right i should do it again with the cover off. So when its ligned up correctly the mark on the side of the case will be ligned up and the cam lobes will be face slightly up facing towards the back of the bike right?
IIRC
from the rh side of the engine that cam lobes should be facing approx 9 o clock (to the back and up like you said)
Alright did another leak down test and its definitely in the right position and still leaking out the carb. So is it time to dig deeper and pull the head off?
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Thanks. So what the deal with updated valves? Mines a 2005 with stock valves. My friend told me they make updated valves that have less problems? Is this true or a myth? If its true i might as well upgrade while im in there
Dunno what exactly the update is, a whole bunch of companies came out with "fixes" for the short valve life in the 04-06 bikes.
On my 05 I did the Stainless Steel valves, and I didn't have another issue with the valves, but its sitting waiting for a crank at the moment. My buddy did the fastheads beryllium seats in his 04, he has had zero valve issues/adjustments in 80+ hours, and he didn't take a hit in performance due to a heavier valve train like I did.
If I were to do it again this would be the route I would take.
On my 05 I did the Stainless Steel valves, and I didn't have another issue with the valves, but its sitting waiting for a crank at the moment. My buddy did the fastheads beryllium seats in his 04, he has had zero valve issues/adjustments in 80+ hours, and he didn't take a hit in performance due to a heavier valve train like I did.
If I were to do it again this would be the route I would take.
