RM-Z250 2012 Suzuki RM-Z 250 top end help

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Anitomical

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2Wheels:
Intake porting isnt going to matter. Im not seeing a lot of head damage beyond the cam journal. If the cam sits in tight I dont know if I would worry about it. I am curious as to what happened behind the bearing race that could do that. BeCu seats look ok. Whats up with the intake valve guides? They look weird in the pic
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It looks weird because whenever it was ported the shaved down the valve guide too and i dont know why trust me it caught me off guard too. And the cam sits in nice and snug and its not loose and i dont feel any play in it. And I was told the two wrong things with it was the crank was shot (i wasnt told how bad it was) and well the camshaft. The only damage i see is the in the cams is the intake cam and where the intake cam sits in the head. This is the intake cam too. So if i just got cams it’d be fine?? image.jpgI think even if I could get away with reusing the cams im definitely not going to because im not gonna risk that cam
 
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Anitomical

2Wheels:
Oh i thought the grooving was where the bearing rides. Looking like maybe the oil galley clogged up.
Trashed
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Yeah I kinda figured the head wouldn’t be usable lol, but do you have any thoughts on the head i should get? Should i get a ported head or just a oem one?
 
2Wheels

2Wheels

I have a PC ported head on my Honda crf250r and I have the stocker. I can't tell the difference honestly.
It Looks pretty..

stock


Wtyq62s.jpg



Pro Circuit

FmBo3u9.jpg
 
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Anitomical

2Wheels:
I have a PC ported head on my Honda crf250r and I have the stocker. I can't tell the difference honestly.
It Looks pretty..

stock


Wtyq62s.jpg



Pro Circuit

FmBo3u9.jpg
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I can slightly tell the difference, pro circuit looks smoother and has a sharper spine or whatever its called but thats about it. I’ll probably just go with the stock head, if it was tuned for the head being ported i dont think it’ll effect to much
 
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Anitomical

2Wheels:
The difference is easy to see, I meant I can't feel the difference.
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OOH OOH ok im sorry, so yeah I’ll just get a stock head then because if it doesn’t make a difference because I dont feel like spending an extra $400 on a head if its not going to do nth
 
2Wheels

2Wheels

Yeah theoretically, smoother passages, high lift cams, high compression piston etc.. really pro riders can benefit from this kind of modification but for most mortals it's not going to matter. Pros can feel a half tank of gas lol. Its really kind of pointless for us to spend coin on Ti fasteners and putting "speed holes" in all our washers. Stock motors are so good these days that your mod money would be better spent on suspension.
 
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Anitomical

2Wheels:
Yeah theoretically, smoother passages, high lift cams, high compression piston etc.. really pro riders can benefit from this kind of modification but for most mortals it's not going to matter. Pros can feel a half tank of gas lol. Its really kind of pointless for us to spend coin on Ti fasteners and putting "speed holes" in all our washers. Stock motors are so good these days that your mod money would be better spent on suspension.
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Yeah I don’t need all of that fancy extra stuff, i really dont care to much about power or anything because im not racing, at least for now. The mechanic I bought it from said I should put stock cams in it because his son was able to completely dominate the track with a completely stock bike going against modded bikes. And personally I would like to go back go stock cams but they’re about the same price as the stage 2 hot cams and if I went back to stock then id have to get a stock ecu too so it’s not really worth it I dont think.
 
SRAD97750

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
Anitomical:
View attachment 34075Im not to sure if this is a stock one or an aftermarket one? I feel like this is probably a stock one but yet again i could be wrong.
Also I kind of figured that I couldnt use two separate brands, i just didn’t know how different the two brands were when it came to that
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This CDI comes back as OEM for your bike.
-BIG DAN:thumb:
 
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Anitomical

Ok so I out the entire motor together and it is extremely smooth except the kick start for some reason? Like it’s extremely hard to kick over even without a sparkplug, it feels like there is mor resistance in that than my honda fourtrax WITH a spark plug and that thing has great compression. Now i get that they have a different compression ratio and they’re completely different engines but it just goes to show how much unnecessary resistance there is on my bike. I went to spin the crank with a wrench and see how that would fair and i could just put two fingers on the wrench and itd turn over no problem. So i took the clutch side apart, went through everything and everything was still in spec and put together properly so i tested the kick start mechanism without the clutch on… smooth as butter. I put the trans in neutral and checked to see how much resistance there was in the trans, and that was buttery smooth too. Checked the teeth on everything, no damage. Checked the water pump, no damage and spun perfectly. Checked the oil pump gears, no damage and spun perfectly. I don’t know what is making it so hard to kick over when everything is smooth and the spark plug is out, hell i could just be one weak dude but it just doesnt seem like it should be that hard to kick over with the spark plug out. I can’t even use the kick starter by hand even with a bit of my weight on it. I really dont know what is causing that much resistance and I dont think there should be that much resistance
 
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