Other 2000 XR200R Rings

Thats a good question that has a fairly technical answer IMO, and for not wanting to give bad advice, I would defer you to some of the other members here for that answer. I know how I would do it, but I am no authority in this area. For most head work, I usually bring it to a local shop, whether it be valve guide replacement, or grinding/angle jobs. Plus they can machine the surface flat, check for cracks, etc. I'm sure some of the guys here can give you the step-by-step, but not me.
I'm sure ossagp, Big Dan, M33, or Palmer will chime in eventually and offer some more advice...
 
Do you have any pics of the cylinder?
How about the cams?

And - that photo you posted looks like it has a shiny mark near the exhaust side valve relief in the piston, like maybe the valve hit it.
A preliminary backyard check of valves that I use is to take a hammer and pound on the end of the valve and see if it moves and makes a t-tink sound. But it's not the correct way to do it I know. The correct way is to remove them from the head.

Also - what is your budget, and what are your long term goals for this bike?
 
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SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
I was able to get the cylinder header off by taking out the cam, pulse rotor and unscrewing a couple bolts
How would I check the valves?
Pull the pin out of the piston and get it off the rod so you can spec the rod play and the piston/rings/cylinder.
-Piston Ring End Gap Clearance
-Piston to Cylinder Clearance
-Cylinder Specifications
-Crank Rod Radial Play
-Crank Bearing/Seal Play
Once you have everything measured, you can decide what to do next. -BIG DAN:thumb:
 
Do you have any pics of the cylinder?
How about the cams?

And - that photo you posted looks like it has a shiny mark near the exhaust side valve relief in the piston, like maybe the valve hit it.
A preliminary backyard check of valves that I use is to take a hammer and pound on the end of the valve and see if it moves and makes a t-tink sound. But it's not the correct way to do it I know. The correct way is to remove them from the head.

Also - what is your budget, and what are your long term goals for this bike?
My budget is around 500-700 and I wanna keep it for a couple years and then possibly trade it for a miata.
 
Pull the pin out of the piston and get it off the rod so you can spec the rod play and the piston/rings/cylinder.
-Piston Ring End Gap Clearance
-Piston to Cylinder Clearance
-Cylinder Specifications
-Crank Rod Radial Play
-Crank Bearing/Seal Play
Once you have everything measured, you can decide what to do next. -BIG DAN:thumb:
I found a piston kit off of bike bandit. Should I buy it once I get everything sized?
 

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
If you need a piston based on the measurements, you probably will
need an oversize. which one is yet to be determined. I wouldn't buy a thing yet. -BIG DAN:thumb:
 
You bought a nice low speed trail bike, that is very easy to learn on. It can be modified to do lots of things better than it does now. There is one area of concern when you say something about it not having as much power as you would expect for a 200 cc bike: In stock form and running at it's best it probably will still feel that way if you are comparing it to ANYTHING that is of the racing variety.

I have had good luck with any of the aftermarket valves and pistons if you keep the compression stock, ditto with the cam and carburetor. Vesrah used to make decent valves, which were inexpensive and a good motorcycle or automotive machine shop can recut the seats and shim the valve springs for you. You should have the guides replaced or knurled to take out the play and center them again.

The good news on the crankshaft is that if yours has a stock bore it probably means it doesn't have as much time on it as it would take to wear it out. Thus if you are rebuilding it to stock specs, it can probably be used as is, taking into consideration the checkup that Srad suggests.

Pricing out a bag of oe parts that came a year ago with a 200 I ended up with, I don't think you would have any trouble doing the top end for under 500 including the machining.

You asked about checking valves, and my favorite test is before I disassemble. I would have set them first and then done a compression test, carburetor off and kick it over a few times until a rapid rise on the gauge stops. it it seems low, i take out the plug and put a few squirts of oil down the plug hole and kick a few times to spread the oil and blow out some of the excess, and hook up the tester again. If I see something like a 20 lb plus rise in the reading, I know that the rings are probably the biggest part of the compression loss. Since it is only two valves that are not outrageous I just usually plan to replace them, as the stellite coated ones that Honda uses don't lend themselves to turning them. In no case would I put it back together on the stock piston, and boring costs so little once it is apart, I would just plan on that. Even a cylinder that is still within spec is going to be close to be over the limit. Your chances of getting it concentric again and seated good are about as much as getting on an airplane that is going to be hijacked.

So if it were mine I would put in a new piston and rings, new valves, all the gaskets etc, and probably a cam chain.

The process is different if I decide I want to change cam profiles, springs, carb etc.
 
You bought a nice low speed trail bike, that is very easy to learn on. It can be modified to do lots of things better than it does now. There is one area of concern when you say something about it not having as much power as you would expect for a 200 cc bike: In stock form and running at it's best it probably will still feel that way if you are comparing it to ANYTHING that is of the racing variety.

I have had good luck with any of the aftermarket valves and pistons if you keep the compression stock, ditto with the cam and carburetor. Vesrah used to make decent valves, which were inexpensive and a good motorcycle or automotive machine shop can recut the seats and shim the valve springs for you. You should have the guides replaced or knurled to take out the play and center them again.

The good news on the crankshaft is that if yours has a stock bore it probably means it doesn't have as much time on it as it would take to wear it out. Thus if you are rebuilding it to stock specs, it can probably be used as is, taking into consideration the checkup that Srad suggests.

Pricing out a bag of oe parts that came a year ago with a 200 I ended up with, I don't think you would have any trouble doing the top end for under 500 including the machining.

You asked about checking valves, and my favorite test is before I disassemble. I would have set them first and then done a compression test, carburetor off and kick it over a few times until a rapid rise on the gauge stops. it it seems low, i take out the plug and put a few squirts of oil down the plug hole and kick a few times to spread the oil and blow out some of the excess, and hook up the tester again. If I see something like a 20 lb plus rise in the reading, I know that the rings are probably the biggest part of the compression loss. Since it is only two valves that are not outrageous I just usually plan to replace them, as the stellite coated ones that Honda uses don't lend themselves to turning them. In no case would I put it back together on the stock piston, and boring costs so little once it is apart, I would just plan on that. Even a cylinder that is still within spec is going to be close to be over the limit. Your chances of getting it concentric again and seated good are about as much as getting on an airplane that is going to be hijacked.

So if it were mine I would put in a new piston and rings, new valves, all the gaskets etc, and probably a cam chain.

The process is different if I decide I want to change cam profiles, springs, carb etc.
Thanks for the reply. Would you suggest stock or aftermarket pistons? I found a Wisceo high performance kit for $150 off of bike bandit. Then I think the stock piston is around $90.
 
the stock is fine if you are keeping the rest of the components stock. you can't go all that far on an overbore with that one, but xrsonly.com is worth looking at for some of the hopup items if you are looking ot upgrade
 
the stock is fine if you are keeping the rest of the components stock. you can't go all that far on an overbore with that one, but xrsonly.com is worth looking at for some of the hopup items if you are looking ot upgrade
I found some valves and a gasket kit for both under $150. Any suggestions for a cam chain?
 
There is one area of concern when you say something about it not having as much power as you would expect for a 200 cc bike:
If yours was smoking as bad as you say and with those compression numbers you definitely weren't getting all of the HP it can make, so expect it to have a bit more oomph when you get it back together.
In stock form and running at it's best it probably will still feel that way if you are comparing it to ANYTHING that is of the racing variety.
I could not agree more. My 200 carries my 200lbs of weight around quite nicely on the trail, but the second I brought it out onto the track the tires filled with mud and it gained so much weight it could barely get out of it's on way. Nowhere near enough power. Kids with KX65's we're going around me like I was standing still.
It definitely has it's place, and that place is on the trail.
 
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If yours was smoking as bad as you say and with those compression numbers you definitely weren't getting all of the HP it can make, so expect it to have a bit more oomph when you get it back together.

I could not agree more. My 200 carries my 200lbs of weight around quite nicely on the trail, but the second I brought it out onto the track the tires filled with mud and it gained so much weight it could barely get out of it's on way. Nowhere near enough power. Kids with KX65's we're going around me like I was standing still.
It definitely has it's place, and that place is on the trail.
http://imgur.com/a/ODxIF Here is an update on the valves...
 
That was the intake? The strike point on the piston looked like the the front of the engine in your other post with the pic...
Regardless, yeah, that makes sense.
Glad to see the real brains of this site have come to offer their assistance, I knew they would.
Follow the advice given above and you're golden.
 
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