2 Stroke 1988 CR250R Wont start / Wet Plug

Stringer

Stringer

Couldn't get him any lower than that. But I got it for 200 shipped priority, so I talked him down $50. I'll just have to wait for it to arrive before I order the piston then. This one looks to be in great shape, we'll see!

Looks like I will also have an extra cylinder head, left & right powervalve internals, reed valve assembly, intake boot, and possibly the 4 powervalve covers (difficult to discern from ad) :banana:
 
Mihylo33

Mihylo33

Stringer:
Couldn't get him any lower than that. But I got it for 200 shipped priority, so I talked him down $50. I'll just have to wait for it to arrive before I order the piston then. This one looks to be in great shape, we'll see!

Looks like I will also have an extra cylinder head, left & right powervalve internals, reed valve assembly, intake boot, and possibly the 4 powervalve covers (difficult to discern from ad) :banana:
Click to expand...


that's good stuff...:thumb:
 
Stringer

Stringer

Thanks

On a side note, does anyone know how to get paint for this frame? Mines red not orange. My subframe is bare metal figured I'd remove it and hit it up with steel wool, self etching primer, and some kind of matching spray paint?

ETA: Also, my rad hoses probably could use a replace, to be on the safe side. Should I pony up to a bike specific hose kit, or match hoses at a discount auto or something? Or is that ghetto? Thanks!
 
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Stringer

Stringer

Ok guys im absolutely stuck. I know this sounds stupid. But I am rebuilding the rear brake caliper and it's got a "pad spring". I cant seem to get this thing together. I have been trying all day, and this single part wont go in anywhere. Ive got new piston in there with new piston seal, dust seal, I polished the shafts, im using caliper grease, new insulators, pads, etc. Everything is perfect but this damn "pad spring" wont go the hell in anywhere. Does anyone know how to install this thing??? I have been studying the Clymer manual and online microfiche all day but there is no indication where the part actually goes. It doesn't seem to actually fit anywhere. Thanks.
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SRAD97750

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
It pushes the pads against their restraints in the caliper.
So hold the caliper with the pistons to the left, and you are looking down into where the pads would go. The Spring goes in first and is held in by the pads themselves. I don't know if that helped or not...

RearCaliper38.jpg

-BIG DAN:thumb:
 
Stringer

Stringer

Thanks a lot but ive been trying to put it there all day and it just does not fit. neither pad springs will stay in place either they just fall out. All day on this piece. I am so lost. getting close to throwing this thing out the window...
 
Stringer

Stringer

Just updating a bit here. I have not yet received the cylinder from seller. He also gave me an incorrect tracking number. It will probably work out though (fingers crossed).

I installed the rear wheel with new bearings, seals, and grease. Installed rebuilt rear caliper which has new pads, new insulators, new retainers, piston, piston seal, dust seal, caliper grease, etc. Flushed all the old fluid out. This took a long time and a lot of fluid. What came out was like mud and water. Got everything coming out clear with new DOT4 and bled brakes. Works like a dream now!
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I could not get front caliper pistons out without destroying them (same as rear lol) so I had to order two new pistons for front caliper. I have all the other parts waiting.

Installed the new 14T countersprocket to return this to stock gearing, removing an existing 13T. I cleaned the chain and it's been soaking in 30wt oil for 2 weeks or so and installed.
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Also ordered a snazzy red silicone radiator hose set for $32.60 shipped. It's coming from Ohio, so hopefully I'll get it soon.
hose.jpg
 
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2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

Stringer:
Just updating a bit here. I have not yet received the cylinder from seller. He also gave me an incorrect tracking number. It will probably work out though (fingers crossed).

I installed the rear wheel with new bearings, seals, and grease. Installed rebuilt rear caliper which has new pads, new insulators, new retainers, piston, piston seal, dust seal, caliper grease, etc. Flushed all the old fluid out. This took a long time and a lot of fluid. What came out was like mud and water. Got everything coming out clear with new DOT4 and bled brakes. Works like a dream now!
View attachment 23343

I could not get front caliper pistons out without destroying them (same as rear lol) so I had to order two new pistons for front caliper. I have all the other parts waiting.

Installed the new 14T countersprocket to return this to stock gearing, removing an existing 13T. I cleaned the chain and it's been soaking in 30wt oil for 2 weeks or so and installed.
View attachment 23344

Also ordered a snazzy red silicone radiator hose set for $32.60 shipped. It's coming from Ohio, so hopefully I'll get it soon.
View attachment 23346
Click to expand...

On getting out the caliper pistons, did you try using compressed air to blow them out?
 
Stringer

Stringer

I apologize if this has turned more into a rebuild thread while I wait for my cylinder. Anyway I stripped the paint from my exhaust pipe which didn't have a very good paint job, all bubbled over and missing paint with rust etc. I picked up some VHT Flameproof black paint for the exhaust, and some duplicolor rattlecan (GM Torch Red) for my subframe which didn't have any paint whatsoever and was also showing small signs of rust. The cap color matched the radiator shroud I brought in with me so, that was my redneck paint swatch. We'll see how well it matches I guess. 8.JPG
9.JPG
I will scuff them up some more tomorrow. But should I use the automotive self etching primer on the exhaust as well? Not sure if I should or not. I read the directions and of course they recommend the VHT primer which I did not see at the store.
 
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