2 Stroke 1988 CR250R Wont start / Wet Plug

flip it over and see how it fits. honestly the only thing i have out of my manual that shows it is a black and white outline sketch, but it shows it barrel down and as many years as it has been, it is how I remember it.
 
flip it over and see how it fits. honestly the only thing i have out of my manual that shows it is a black and white outline sketch, but it shows it barrel down and as many years as it has been, it is how I remember it.

Yeah it doesn't fit. The spindle has a D shaped profile, flipping it over would point the cam in the opposite direction which wont work. Dang I thought that was it. Apparantly not. Had the cylinder lifted up to change #21 position but it just wont work. This shit is just not working.
 
yeah, you have to be close though. you have all the right pieces it seems. I wish I could be there for a minute and see what else pops back into my mind. Hopefully the manual will help you sort it out. Here is hoping the pieces you do have for it are the right ones in actuality. I want to say that the 88 through 91 was the same or could be used if all parts were changed out, but 25 years can make your mind a little bit blurry

Show me the shaft, and the cam taken apart please.
 
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Sorry for the delay been really busy. Finally able to take another look at the bike. All the parts seem to be in good shape. Here is the other end of the spindle cam, and rack.
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Oh I just noticed some wear on the rack. This rack is from the ebay cylinder (mine was too bent to install). It has some wear that looks like it may have been run with a damaged spindle cam. I don't think this would effect mine, but not sure.
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Sorry was getting frustrated is all.

What I have learned since putting this HPP system together 300 times, is after everything is together and governor is engaged, the valves will either;

1) Move in and out easily with little force. Though I cannot get them to seat correctly.

2) Move in and out with a lot of force applied to valves, maybe 6ft/lbs or so (guesstimate). They do seat firmly.

3) Valves have a bind somewhere and will not move, even with force.

With the rebuild I set them up to the #2 configuration. That wasn't working. I suppose I'll try #1 next. I don't have much hope for #3.
 
Hey guys. Still trying to figure out this powervalve crap. No luck yet.

I figured since I got the right engine cover off id go ahead and replace crank seal since I ordered it early on. When I got down to it, it had oil seepage at the bottom of the seal that was golden in color, and smelled like it had gas in it. This has got to be from the combustion chamber, as my tranny fluid is red and does not smell of gas.

Would this indicate a leaking seal?

I got the whole area cleaned out after I drilled the old seal to remove it. Got the shavings out and used carb cleaner to get everything super clean. Now its clean and dry. What should I do before putting in the new crank seal? Nothing in manual about this. Thanks!
 
Hey guys. Still trying to figure out this powervalve crap. No luck yet.

I figured since I got the right engine cover off id go ahead and replace crank seal since I ordered it early on. When I got down to it, it had oil seepage at the bottom of the seal that was golden in color, and smelled like it had gas in it. This has got to be from the combustion chamber, as my tranny fluid is red and does not smell of gas.

Would this indicate a leaking seal?

I got the whole area cleaned out after I drilled the old seal to remove it. Got the shavings out and used carb cleaner to get everything super clean. Now its clean and dry. What should I do before putting in the new crank seal? Nothing in manual about this. Thanks!


Wipe some grease or oil on in and install it. Use a long socket and gent tap it into place.
 
send your address again please. got back from calif manual is still here, i was told i didnt leave the address card for it and now I cant find your email.
 
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