Tips of the day
- Thread starter josmoloco
- Start date
Be nice to your bike, and it should do the same in return...
From Eric Gorr
WHY 250Fs BLOW-UP
1) You downshifted twice instead of just once over that big tabletop jump and when you landed the engine mechanically over-revved and the valves collided into the piston and destroyed the engine.
2) You ran your bike way longer than you should have and never serviced the top end and the valves are sacked out and you have to push-start your bike or pull-start it with a ATV just to get it running and its really slow and pops a lot and shoots fire out the exhaust. Now it has no compression and won't start no matter how fast that ATV pulls it.
3) You reasoned that because crude oil has been trapped in the Earth's crust for 65 million years that you could skip a couple of oil changes or 10 and now your engine has been running for a while with no oil. Now every bearing needs to be replaced along with a lot of really expensive parts.
4) You crashed your bike and it laid on the right side running wide open. Meanwhile the oil sump in the engine is located on the left side and starved for oil and just sucked air, which makes a pretty crappy lubricant. The first thing to seize was the camshaft journals, which use bare aluminum as a bearing surface, and yeah that's a really stupid design and obviously you don't own a Honda!
5) Your buddy who knows everything (no not really) helped you rebuild your top end for a 6-pack and didn't know exactly how to set the cam timing but figured it would jump into place the first time you bounced it off the rev limiter but it blew your engine up instead and now he doesn't hang around your garage anymore telling you about how he knows everything, because he doesn't really know anything except how to cost you money.
6) Instead of up-shifting when the power peaks you bounce it off the rev limiter. But every time you hit the rev limiter you increase your engine hours by 10 minutes for every second the engine sputters, rendering your hour-meter useless. Eventually the valves and springs get fatigued and fail causing the valve heads to break-off, you can guess the rest!
From Eric Gorr
WHY 250Fs BLOW-UP
1) You downshifted twice instead of just once over that big tabletop jump and when you landed the engine mechanically over-revved and the valves collided into the piston and destroyed the engine.
2) You ran your bike way longer than you should have and never serviced the top end and the valves are sacked out and you have to push-start your bike or pull-start it with a ATV just to get it running and its really slow and pops a lot and shoots fire out the exhaust. Now it has no compression and won't start no matter how fast that ATV pulls it.
3) You reasoned that because crude oil has been trapped in the Earth's crust for 65 million years that you could skip a couple of oil changes or 10 and now your engine has been running for a while with no oil. Now every bearing needs to be replaced along with a lot of really expensive parts.
4) You crashed your bike and it laid on the right side running wide open. Meanwhile the oil sump in the engine is located on the left side and starved for oil and just sucked air, which makes a pretty crappy lubricant. The first thing to seize was the camshaft journals, which use bare aluminum as a bearing surface, and yeah that's a really stupid design and obviously you don't own a Honda!
5) Your buddy who knows everything (no not really) helped you rebuild your top end for a 6-pack and didn't know exactly how to set the cam timing but figured it would jump into place the first time you bounced it off the rev limiter but it blew your engine up instead and now he doesn't hang around your garage anymore telling you about how he knows everything, because he doesn't really know anything except how to cost you money.
6) Instead of up-shifting when the power peaks you bounce it off the rev limiter. But every time you hit the rev limiter you increase your engine hours by 10 minutes for every second the engine sputters, rendering your hour-meter useless. Eventually the valves and springs get fatigued and fail causing the valve heads to break-off, you can guess the rest!
Be nice to your bike, and it should do the same in return...
From Eric Gorr
WHY 250Fs BLOW-UP
1) You downshifted twice instead of just once over that big tabletop jump and when you landed the engine mechanically over-revved and the valves collided into the piston and destroyed the engine.
2) You ran your bike way longer than you should have and never serviced the top end and the valves are sacked out and you have to push-start your bike or pull-start it with a ATV just to get it running and its really slow and pops a lot and shoots fire out the exhaust. Now it has no compression and won't start no matter how fast that ATV pulls it.
3) You reasoned that because crude oil has been trapped in the Earth's crust for 65 million years that you could skip a couple of oil changes or 10 and now your engine has been running for a while with no oil. Now every bearing needs to be replaced along with a lot of really expensive parts.
4) You crashed your bike and it laid on the right side running wide open. Meanwhile the oil sump in the engine is located on the left side and starved for oil and just sucked air, which makes a pretty crappy lubricant. The first thing to seize was the camshaft journals, which use bare aluminum as a bearing surface, and yeah that's a really stupid design and obviously you don't own a Honda!
5) Your buddy who knows everything (no not really) helped you rebuild your top end for a 6-pack and didn't know exactly how to set the cam timing but figured it would jump into place the first time you bounced it off the rev limiter but it blew your engine up instead and now he doesn't hang around your garage anymore telling you about how he knows everything, because he doesn't really know anything except how to cost you money.
6) Instead of up-shifting when the power peaks you bounce it off the rev limiter. But every time you hit the rev limiter you increase your engine hours by 10 minutes for every second the engine sputters, rendering your hour-meter useless. Eventually the valves and springs get fatigued and fail causing the valve heads to break-off, you can guess the rest!
I can fair well say if you break these ruels, you shouldn't be riding anyhow. I'm 13 and still never broke these ruels, even when I was learning track itself...
Clean your bike after every ride, check the engine oil every ride, tire pressure, chain slack, sprocket condition, and check every bolt you can think of. 
take care of the machine and it will take care of you.
Invest in a good torque wrench, a harbor freight special is not a good torque wrench, the bike builder didn't write a manual listing a torque spec for basically every bolt on the bike for nothing.
Take a can of chain lube with you to the track, staging area, whatever, and lube the chain while its warm, it will absorb the lube better, which means less of it will fling off
take care of the machine and it will take care of you.Invest in a good torque wrench, a harbor freight special is not a good torque wrench, the bike builder didn't write a manual listing a torque spec for basically every bolt on the bike for nothing.
Take a can of chain lube with you to the track, staging area, whatever, and lube the chain while its warm, it will absorb the lube better, which means less of it will fling off
check your coolant level and also check it to see if its still good, i dont know what its called but i have a little tool that is like a tiny turkey baster with a tube on one end (to reach down in the rad) and it has little beads in it and when you suck up some of the beads will float up well anywhere from all beads to no beads will float up deppending on if your coolant is good i usually replace my coolant if only 1 doesn't float (i think it has 5)
Its called a hydrometer.. You use it to test the freezing point of antifreeze
mine also tells what the boiling point is...idk if all of them do
