250F Pulled off my head, are these parts good or bad?

Alright I pulled off my head after about 2 hours of work and here are the pics. I did this because people have been telling me that my valves are probably recessed and that my valve seats and valves need to be replaced. Idk if you guys can tell or not from these pics, I dont have the valves out but will be taking them out tomorrow. I will probably have an update then.
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Looking at your head, reminds me that I like a lot of butter on my TOAST. Seriously, if you just paid some guy to put in some used valves, I think you're screwed. You need to replace all 5 valves/springs/keepers/seals, and get the head inspected, and new seats cut in. I know what you're going through, my '07 is in the middle of a complete top end, and it isn't cheap. But I take solice in knowing a red bike would be on it's 4th or 5th go round, while this is my blue bikes 1st.:smirk:
 
And while it's down, change the piston/rings/timing chain, and measure your jug, and rod bearing to make sure they are still in spec.:thumb:


And yes, drain the antifreeze, and oil too. While your at that, add changing the filters, and cleaning the carb.:devil:



Anyone want to add anything else?:lol:
 
Looking at your head, reminds me that I like a lot of butter on my TOAST. Seriously, if you just paid some guy to put in some used valves, I think you're screwed. You need to replace all 5 valves/springs/keepers/seals, and get the head inspected, and new seats cut in. I know what you're going through, my '07 is in the middle of a complete top end, and it isn't cheap. But I take solice in knowing a red bike would be on it's 4th or 5th go round, while this is my blue bikes 1st.:smirk:
Ya its definately not. 500 bucks so far for new gaskets, piston kit, timing chain, and all 5 new valves and springs. And I havent even gotten to the price of cutting the valve seats yet. I also plan on honing the cylinder. Figured I would ask you since you seem to know a lot about this. I've heard quite a few horror stories about people honing and messing up the cylinder because it has a sleeve they didnt know about or something. Im pretty sure the cylinder is stock. With that being said, would it be ok to stick a hone onto a drill and start scratchin' it?
 
And while it's down, change the piston/rings/timing chain, and measure your jug, and rod bearing to make sure they are still in spec.:thumb:


And yes, drain the antifreeze, and oil too. While your at that, add changing the filters, and cleaning the carb.:devil:



Anyone want to add anything else?:lol:
what is the rod bearing? Also, is it ok if I have play where the rod connects to the crank if its only side to side NOT up and down? Its the same with the piston. I think they're supposed to be like that, but Im just making sure...
 
Do I need to lap brand new valves when installing? What does lapping do and when is it used?

Yes.... it is used to help the new valves seat better ......

At this point it may be best that you do a total rebuild... You dont wanna be stuck pushing back a bike when polarbear decides he's hungry.
 
All the specs will be in your manual. The rod bearing is side to side. Get a feeler gauge and check it to your manual, if it's out of the acceptable range, you'll have to split the cases and do a rod bearing. If you do hone the jug, a very light go over with a ball hone will be good enough. Do check your cylinder for taper, and out of round, before you put it back together.
 
Have your seat cut, don't lap them in. There is a coating on your new valves, lapping heavily will remove that coating. Whoever does your machine work, will lightly lap them in as the final step.
 
Yes.... it is used to help the new valves seat better ......

At this point it may be best that you do a total rebuild... You dont wanna be stuck pushing back a bike when polarbear decides he's hungry.
Ya thats what im planning on doing, while I have it apart im gonna put a new piston, rings, valves and springs, cam chain, and also hone the cylinder and cut the valve seats (that actually depends on how bad they are unless you think you should cut the seats no matter what). Only thing Im not gonna do is intall a new crank...the hot rods one from the previous owner looks fine to me.
 
Have your seat cut, don't lap them in. There is a coating on your new valves, lapping heavily will remove that coating. Whoever does your machine work, will lightly lap them in as the final step.
So your saying lightly lap the valves and dont lap the seats at all?
 
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