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<blockquote data-quote="MikeinFresno" data-source="post: 32242" data-attributes="member: 40"><p><strong>How to fix 125-200 counter shaft seal leaks:</strong></p><p><strong></strong>May be same on other 2 strokes also </p><p></p><p>I just lay it on its side....I did a search on the parts and found that there is a new seal on the 05' that is thicker by .5 mm, #0760324571. Also there are thicker o-rings too, like #0770250020 ...Heres how I do it ,,first I clean the area well so grit doesnt get down inside the hole as you take it apart...take the sprocket off and then clean the splines of the shaft to get more dirt out...I grab the inner sleeve with my fingers and pull it out while twisting. Some might need pliers...the next thing I do is use a seal puller to get the old seal out. It can be done with a screwdeiver, but be careful not to scratch the case side walls when doing this and yes it is in there tight...then reach in with someting with a little hook on the end to get the old o-ring out, a bent paper clip works well...THERE IS ANOTHER FLAT SHIM IN THE BOTTOM. BE SURE IT IS IN THERE TOO...next I inspect the sleeve. If it has grooves deep enuf that you can feel then consider replacing it. If not replacing then use fine sand paper and buff the outside to get it smooth, not enuf to remove the grooves, but enuf to clean it of all tarnish...after this I use the sprocket, and turn it over to the flat side down, as the tool to drive the new seal back in, this way it stays pretty square. Last nite my chain guide got in the way and I used a large socket to finish it up. Just drive it in far enuf so it is flush with the case. It can be pushed in quite a bit further and this is a possibility if you bugger the case or if the sleeve has a groove and you want the seal lips to rub a different part of the sleeve...put the o-ring back in, sleeve in with the groove down and put the spocket on top... The sprocket is also critical in this beacuse it is what puts the load on the sleeve and o-ring to make them seal. If using an aftermarket sprocket it may be a few thousands thinner and then may not be tight enuf...lastly I found that my sprocket clip had grooves worn into one side of it from the countershaft splines. This too will leave a few thousandths of less pressure on the parts. I solved that for now by installing it with the grooves down and fresh metal up. I will have to replace it next time. In order to get the clip in the grooves I use a large socket that just fits over the shaft and give it a few good whacks against the sprocket. If that doesnt do it then use a large tipped, blunt tool to tap the clip around and down, working around the edge until it goes in. The tool must not cut or bend the clip while doing this...thats about it. Some say they try cleaning the seal first with a q-tip and others just replace the o-ring. Others use some various materials under the sprocket to shim a little extra pressure on the seal system and it works for some... You can do any or all of these in steps to save money, but it wont save much time if you have to do it over and over till you get the right combination that stops the leak................</p><p>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p><strong>Changing the needle or its setting on a 2st:</strong></p><p></p><p>remove the top of the carb where the cable goes in. Once this is out the slide is attatched. The needle is hanging down from it. Remove the cable and its spring and guide. You do this by skinning the spring and guide back as far as you can, and then while holding it in your fingers along with the top, you push down on the cable and it slides down and out of its notch. In the bottom of the inside of the slide is a part to remove and the needle is under that. This is a 6mm head, nut device. This is pot metal and will strip if you use a 1/4" socket on it too many times. </p><p></p><p>The needle has 5 notches in it. Take the clip off the needle and put it back on where you want it to go. Be careful with the clip as it is small and spring loaded. It will fly off and be lost. Put it inside a sandwich bag to remove and re-install it til you are good at doing it. You actually get the clip off by pushing it against a hard surface and it pops off. Put it on in reverse by lining it up and pushing against a hard surface. </p><p></p><p>Be clear on raising and lowering the needle. To lower the needle to make it a little leaner you raise the clip to the next groove. So lower needle is raise the clip. </p><p></p><p>When you put the cable back in you need to look at the little plastic part as it has a pin that sticks out to go in the groove to hold the cable in place. Try putting the cable in the groove without the spring first so you can see how it works. Sometimes the spring will slip in your fingers and it can take a few tries to get it done.</p><p></p><p>When you put the slide back in the carb be sure the needle feeds down into its hole. Twist the throttle a few times and be sure the slide goes up n down freely. If it is hung up and wont drop, it will be stuck wide open. If it is loose then the cable popped out cuz you didnt get it in right.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MikeinFresno, post: 32242, member: 40"] [B]How to fix 125-200 counter shaft seal leaks: [/B]May be same on other 2 strokes also I just lay it on its side....I did a search on the parts and found that there is a new seal on the 05' that is thicker by .5 mm, #0760324571. Also there are thicker o-rings too, like #0770250020 ...Heres how I do it ,,first I clean the area well so grit doesnt get down inside the hole as you take it apart...take the sprocket off and then clean the splines of the shaft to get more dirt out...I grab the inner sleeve with my fingers and pull it out while twisting. Some might need pliers...the next thing I do is use a seal puller to get the old seal out. It can be done with a screwdeiver, but be careful not to scratch the case side walls when doing this and yes it is in there tight...then reach in with someting with a little hook on the end to get the old o-ring out, a bent paper clip works well...THERE IS ANOTHER FLAT SHIM IN THE BOTTOM. BE SURE IT IS IN THERE TOO...next I inspect the sleeve. If it has grooves deep enuf that you can feel then consider replacing it. If not replacing then use fine sand paper and buff the outside to get it smooth, not enuf to remove the grooves, but enuf to clean it of all tarnish...after this I use the sprocket, and turn it over to the flat side down, as the tool to drive the new seal back in, this way it stays pretty square. Last nite my chain guide got in the way and I used a large socket to finish it up. Just drive it in far enuf so it is flush with the case. It can be pushed in quite a bit further and this is a possibility if you bugger the case or if the sleeve has a groove and you want the seal lips to rub a different part of the sleeve...put the o-ring back in, sleeve in with the groove down and put the spocket on top... The sprocket is also critical in this beacuse it is what puts the load on the sleeve and o-ring to make them seal. If using an aftermarket sprocket it may be a few thousands thinner and then may not be tight enuf...lastly I found that my sprocket clip had grooves worn into one side of it from the countershaft splines. This too will leave a few thousandths of less pressure on the parts. I solved that for now by installing it with the grooves down and fresh metal up. I will have to replace it next time. In order to get the clip in the grooves I use a large socket that just fits over the shaft and give it a few good whacks against the sprocket. If that doesnt do it then use a large tipped, blunt tool to tap the clip around and down, working around the edge until it goes in. The tool must not cut or bend the clip while doing this...thats about it. Some say they try cleaning the seal first with a q-tip and others just replace the o-ring. Others use some various materials under the sprocket to shim a little extra pressure on the seal system and it works for some... You can do any or all of these in steps to save money, but it wont save much time if you have to do it over and over till you get the right combination that stops the leak................ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [B]Changing the needle or its setting on a 2st:[/B] remove the top of the carb where the cable goes in. Once this is out the slide is attatched. The needle is hanging down from it. Remove the cable and its spring and guide. You do this by skinning the spring and guide back as far as you can, and then while holding it in your fingers along with the top, you push down on the cable and it slides down and out of its notch. In the bottom of the inside of the slide is a part to remove and the needle is under that. This is a 6mm head, nut device. This is pot metal and will strip if you use a 1/4" socket on it too many times. The needle has 5 notches in it. Take the clip off the needle and put it back on where you want it to go. Be careful with the clip as it is small and spring loaded. It will fly off and be lost. Put it inside a sandwich bag to remove and re-install it til you are good at doing it. You actually get the clip off by pushing it against a hard surface and it pops off. Put it on in reverse by lining it up and pushing against a hard surface. Be clear on raising and lowering the needle. To lower the needle to make it a little leaner you raise the clip to the next groove. So lower needle is raise the clip. When you put the cable back in you need to look at the little plastic part as it has a pin that sticks out to go in the groove to hold the cable in place. Try putting the cable in the groove without the spring first so you can see how it works. Sometimes the spring will slip in your fingers and it can take a few tries to get it done. When you put the slide back in the carb be sure the needle feeds down into its hole. Twist the throttle a few times and be sure the slide goes up n down freely. If it is hung up and wont drop, it will be stuck wide open. If it is loose then the cable popped out cuz you didnt get it in right. [/QUOTE]
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