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<blockquote data-quote="MikeinFresno" data-source="post: 32241" data-attributes="member: 40"><p><strong>Bleeding hyd clutch: </strong></p><p>They use oil instead of brake fluid until 06. These things are sweet until you get air or the seals leak. They are not hard to work on, but can be difficult to diagnose at first. Use <a href="http://shop.thumpertalk.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=857&Click=20110&#Magura" target="_blank"><span style="color: #22229c">Magura</span></a> Blood or synth 5w fork oil or synth auto trans fluid.</p><p> </p><p>The #1 thing is air in the system. This can happen cuz you took something apart to work on it,bike was upside down in a crash,or a seal has started leaking. The symptoms will be the clutch suddenly quits working right. The lever is right at the bar and when you put it in gear the lever has no feel and the bike takes off on you. This is low fluid or extreme air in there.</p><p> </p><p>There is a MC rebuild kit avail, but not a slave rebuild. You can however use a new o-ring in the slave and fix most of them. This o-ring isnt avail by KTM for the slave, but there is another one in the motor that is just the right size.The stock size is #0770002210, the larger size is #0770230020. If the bore is scratched or has a shiny spot on it you will need to polish it with 800 grit paper and then put the new o-ring in. Be careful of the spring and ball in there as they may fly out. Put the slave in a clear plastic bag and then pop the piston out by pulling the lever in and it wiil push the piston out. There are several thicknesses of gaskets for the slave so be sure to match it by measuring it.</p><p> </p><p>To bleed you must first have a large syringe like found at a farm or vet supply store. You use it and a piece of tubing that will fit snuggly over the bleed nipple. Take the nipple off and thoroughly clean the dirt out of it or you will push the dirt into the slave and the grit will ruin it. Take off the top cover of the MC and loosen it at the bar to get the resevoir level. If the fluid isnt covering the orofice in there then you have a leak somewhere. It is a sealed system.THE LEVER MUST BE FULLY OUT ALL THE WAY OR IT WONT BLEED. You can loosen the adjusting knob or tie it open somehow if you have problems. If you have bark busters be sure the lever isnt hitting as it may not be fully extended if it does hit.</p><p> </p><p>Loosen the slave bleeder, put the hose on it, and push the fluid up form the bottom. The fluid will go in firmly, but not hard. If its real hard then there is dirt in the bleeder or the lever isnt out all the way. The fluid will overflow and spill on the bike and floor so be sure you have paper down or somehting to catch the mess. Tighten the bleeder. Then work the lever in n out a little and tap on the line in the upper area to try n work out a few more bubbles. You may see very tiny bubbles come out of the MC hole. </p><p> </p><p>If the clutch doesnt work, do it again. Make aure there is no high loop or area where the hose is above the MC. If the clutch works, but fades and then returns later you may have a bad MC. If after a ride or two the clutch goes away again then you need to check the resevoir. If its low again then you have a bad o-ring in the slave. The oil probly wont run out anywhere as it goes into the gearbox along the clutch rod.</p><p>-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p><strong>125/200 Power valve adjust: </strong></p><p>This system is a screw adjustment, no springs like the 250-300.</p><p>On the right side of the motor on the clutch case area there is a large aluminum nut. Under this is the adjuster. Remove the large nut, loosen the 8mm head lock nut at the 4 oclock position. There is a large flat sided adjuster under the large alum nut, it should turn by hand. This is what you turn to adjust the power valve opening. It turns about 3 full turns. Do not turn the adjuster to hard once it bottoms out as the balls inside can become stuck if you bottom it hard. Dont loose the large copper sealing washer or the piece of rubber in the lock bolt hole at 4 oclock.</p><p> </p><p>Many will just set it to the "Langston" setting and go. Find that on Transworld MX web site as well as another description of how to do this. Also found there is a part that wears in the system, called the control lever, and will make the bike run real bad like ignition or carb trouble. I chased this for one year before I found it was this part going bad.</p><p> </p><p>The way I do the adjustment is by feel of the "hit". First warm the bike up completely by riding it for 5-10 min. Then remove the parts described above. Turn the adjuster one turn in any direction and then leave the nut cover off and ride the bike. You should be able to feel the difference from where it was set before you changed it if you just rode it for a few minutes like I suggested. As long as there is no water, mud, excessive dust it wont hurt anything to ride it for a minute with the cover off.</p><p> </p><p>Now stop the bike and turn the adjuster one full turn back the other way from where it was originally. Now ride it again and you will have just ridden it with three different settings. This will give you a late opening, an early opening and somewhere in the middle. </p><p> </p><p>Now that you have felt what the adjuster can do go back to whatever opening you liked the best and now adjust it in half turns to fine tune it to where you like it. Some like to just set it to the "Langston" setting and ride. Thats Ok, but I like it a little lower/earlier. </p><p> </p><p>Now to clarify what you are trying to "feel". The hit is just as the bike comes on the pipe, spins the, wheelies or some wording that you will understand. You dont have to ride the bike far to test this, only 100' or so in one gear and feel the hit. Maybe shift gears from 2-3 or 3-4 to feel the hit, not X country riding. Once you have it where you think it should be then put it all back together and then go for a ride to see if it is what you want.</p><p>---------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MikeinFresno, post: 32241, member: 40"] [B]Bleeding hyd clutch: [/B] They use oil instead of brake fluid until 06. These things are sweet until you get air or the seals leak. They are not hard to work on, but can be difficult to diagnose at first. Use [URL="http://shop.thumpertalk.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=857&Click=20110&#Magura"][COLOR=#22229c]Magura[/COLOR][/URL] Blood or synth 5w fork oil or synth auto trans fluid. The #1 thing is air in the system. This can happen cuz you took something apart to work on it,bike was upside down in a crash,or a seal has started leaking. The symptoms will be the clutch suddenly quits working right. The lever is right at the bar and when you put it in gear the lever has no feel and the bike takes off on you. This is low fluid or extreme air in there. There is a MC rebuild kit avail, but not a slave rebuild. You can however use a new o-ring in the slave and fix most of them. This o-ring isnt avail by KTM for the slave, but there is another one in the motor that is just the right size.The stock size is #0770002210, the larger size is #0770230020. If the bore is scratched or has a shiny spot on it you will need to polish it with 800 grit paper and then put the new o-ring in. Be careful of the spring and ball in there as they may fly out. Put the slave in a clear plastic bag and then pop the piston out by pulling the lever in and it wiil push the piston out. There are several thicknesses of gaskets for the slave so be sure to match it by measuring it. To bleed you must first have a large syringe like found at a farm or vet supply store. You use it and a piece of tubing that will fit snuggly over the bleed nipple. Take the nipple off and thoroughly clean the dirt out of it or you will push the dirt into the slave and the grit will ruin it. Take off the top cover of the MC and loosen it at the bar to get the resevoir level. If the fluid isnt covering the orofice in there then you have a leak somewhere. It is a sealed system.THE LEVER MUST BE FULLY OUT ALL THE WAY OR IT WONT BLEED. You can loosen the adjusting knob or tie it open somehow if you have problems. If you have bark busters be sure the lever isnt hitting as it may not be fully extended if it does hit. Loosen the slave bleeder, put the hose on it, and push the fluid up form the bottom. The fluid will go in firmly, but not hard. If its real hard then there is dirt in the bleeder or the lever isnt out all the way. The fluid will overflow and spill on the bike and floor so be sure you have paper down or somehting to catch the mess. Tighten the bleeder. Then work the lever in n out a little and tap on the line in the upper area to try n work out a few more bubbles. You may see very tiny bubbles come out of the MC hole. If the clutch doesnt work, do it again. Make aure there is no high loop or area where the hose is above the MC. If the clutch works, but fades and then returns later you may have a bad MC. If after a ride or two the clutch goes away again then you need to check the resevoir. If its low again then you have a bad o-ring in the slave. The oil probly wont run out anywhere as it goes into the gearbox along the clutch rod. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [B]125/200 Power valve adjust: [/B] This system is a screw adjustment, no springs like the 250-300. On the right side of the motor on the clutch case area there is a large aluminum nut. Under this is the adjuster. Remove the large nut, loosen the 8mm head lock nut at the 4 oclock position. There is a large flat sided adjuster under the large alum nut, it should turn by hand. This is what you turn to adjust the power valve opening. It turns about 3 full turns. Do not turn the adjuster to hard once it bottoms out as the balls inside can become stuck if you bottom it hard. Dont loose the large copper sealing washer or the piece of rubber in the lock bolt hole at 4 oclock. Many will just set it to the "Langston" setting and go. Find that on Transworld MX web site as well as another description of how to do this. Also found there is a part that wears in the system, called the control lever, and will make the bike run real bad like ignition or carb trouble. I chased this for one year before I found it was this part going bad. The way I do the adjustment is by feel of the "hit". First warm the bike up completely by riding it for 5-10 min. Then remove the parts described above. Turn the adjuster one turn in any direction and then leave the nut cover off and ride the bike. You should be able to feel the difference from where it was set before you changed it if you just rode it for a few minutes like I suggested. As long as there is no water, mud, excessive dust it wont hurt anything to ride it for a minute with the cover off. Now stop the bike and turn the adjuster one full turn back the other way from where it was originally. Now ride it again and you will have just ridden it with three different settings. This will give you a late opening, an early opening and somewhere in the middle. Now that you have felt what the adjuster can do go back to whatever opening you liked the best and now adjust it in half turns to fine tune it to where you like it. Some like to just set it to the "Langston" setting and ride. Thats Ok, but I like it a little lower/earlier. Now to clarify what you are trying to "feel". The hit is just as the bike comes on the pipe, spins the, wheelies or some wording that you will understand. You dont have to ride the bike far to test this, only 100' or so in one gear and feel the hit. Maybe shift gears from 2-3 or 3-4 to feel the hit, not X country riding. Once you have it where you think it should be then put it all back together and then go for a ride to see if it is what you want. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [/QUOTE]
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