Installing a mini rectifier to keep fan from draining battery
My fan was draining the battery, so I did some research and found a mod to add a second little rectifier to convert the AC voltage from the stator to dedicated use for the fan. The fan only runs when the engine is on and does not drain the battery now.
Here is what I did to hook up my Auxiliary rectifier with a parts list of what is required:
Full-Wave bridge Rectifier P/N 276-1185 (radio shack)
Fully Insulated Crimp-on quick disconnects: ¼ inch male and female, mixed package 64-3133 (radio shack)
Insulated Ring Tongues 1/4 inch, mixed package 64-3040 (radio shack)
Underhood connection brand (male quick disconnect) P/N 85268 (Autozone or Pepboys):
Underhood connection brand (female quick disconnect) P/N 85269 (Autozone or Pepboys):
14 to 18 gage wire, (your choice, I used 16 gage) two brown, one yellow, and one white (made from trailer hitch ribbon wire), three feet each.
Zipties, lots of them, your choice of size and color.
1/4 inch heat shrink tubing.
Remove seat and tank.
I started off by disconnecting the yellow wire quick disconnect under the tank. The wire comes directly from the stator. If you look closely, you can see the spade male connector and spade female connector connected to a yellow wire.
Next I made a splice joint out of male and female ¼ inch spade connectors
I hooked the splice joint between the existing yellow male and female spade connector. This allows me to return it to stock if required.
Next I cut the wires from the fan white connector where it connects to the original wiring connector. I put heat shrink tubing around the wires for safety. This allows the existing connector to remain untouched. I plugged in the fan connector, but this is optional as the wires are cut.
The cut wires from the fan connector were brown and black. I spliced the underhood connection QD connectors onto these two wires. The male ends should go on these wires.
Next I took some brown wire and white wire, and crimped some female underhood connection QDs on.
Route wires to airbox (location of new rectifier).
Heat shrink tubing is used for a water tight fit. The underhood connection QDs also have heat shrink built in which makes it nice.
Next I took a length of yellow wire and crimped a male spade connector on one end and a female connector on the other end. This new wire hooks to the splice I made on the yellow wire coming from the stator.
Now I made a length of ground wire to go from the new rectifier to the ground spot on the frame. I crimped on a ring tongue connector to go under the ground bolt. I used green wire, but brown would have been better as the schematic uses brown wire for all ground wire
Now we need to make sure all wire is routed to the airbox and hook to the new rectifier.
I crimped a female spade connector to each end that was still open (four female spade connectors are needed to hook onto the rectifier)
Here is how the wires hook to the new rectifier:
New yellow wire from splice to an open AC connector (~) (directly from stator AC).
New brown wire from fan underhood connection wire to negative DC connection (-).
New chassis ground green wire to other AC connector (~).
New white wire from underhood connection wire at fan to the remaining DC connector (+).
Ziptie the new rectifier out of the way in the airbox and you are done.
My fan was draining the battery, so I did some research and found a mod to add a second little rectifier to convert the AC voltage from the stator to dedicated use for the fan. The fan only runs when the engine is on and does not drain the battery now.
Here is what I did to hook up my Auxiliary rectifier with a parts list of what is required:
Full-Wave bridge Rectifier P/N 276-1185 (radio shack)
Fully Insulated Crimp-on quick disconnects: ¼ inch male and female, mixed package 64-3133 (radio shack)
Insulated Ring Tongues 1/4 inch, mixed package 64-3040 (radio shack)
Underhood connection brand (male quick disconnect) P/N 85268 (Autozone or Pepboys):
Underhood connection brand (female quick disconnect) P/N 85269 (Autozone or Pepboys):
14 to 18 gage wire, (your choice, I used 16 gage) two brown, one yellow, and one white (made from trailer hitch ribbon wire), three feet each.
Zipties, lots of them, your choice of size and color.
1/4 inch heat shrink tubing.
Remove seat and tank.
I started off by disconnecting the yellow wire quick disconnect under the tank. The wire comes directly from the stator. If you look closely, you can see the spade male connector and spade female connector connected to a yellow wire.
Next I made a splice joint out of male and female ¼ inch spade connectors
I hooked the splice joint between the existing yellow male and female spade connector. This allows me to return it to stock if required.
Next I cut the wires from the fan white connector where it connects to the original wiring connector. I put heat shrink tubing around the wires for safety. This allows the existing connector to remain untouched. I plugged in the fan connector, but this is optional as the wires are cut.
The cut wires from the fan connector were brown and black. I spliced the underhood connection QD connectors onto these two wires. The male ends should go on these wires.
Next I took some brown wire and white wire, and crimped some female underhood connection QDs on.
Route wires to airbox (location of new rectifier).
Heat shrink tubing is used for a water tight fit. The underhood connection QDs also have heat shrink built in which makes it nice.
Next I took a length of yellow wire and crimped a male spade connector on one end and a female connector on the other end. This new wire hooks to the splice I made on the yellow wire coming from the stator.
Now I made a length of ground wire to go from the new rectifier to the ground spot on the frame. I crimped on a ring tongue connector to go under the ground bolt. I used green wire, but brown would have been better as the schematic uses brown wire for all ground wire
Now we need to make sure all wire is routed to the airbox and hook to the new rectifier.
I crimped a female spade connector to each end that was still open (four female spade connectors are needed to hook onto the rectifier)
Here is how the wires hook to the new rectifier:
New yellow wire from splice to an open AC connector (~) (directly from stator AC).
New brown wire from fan underhood connection wire to negative DC connection (-).
New chassis ground green wire to other AC connector (~).
New white wire from underhood connection wire at fan to the remaining DC connector (+).
Ziptie the new rectifier out of the way in the airbox and you are done.