okay, i know that a smaller front sprocket or larger rear will give you better acceleration and opposite for other way around, however i would like to know what is a good setup. i like acceleration more then top end but i dont want to be doing 55mph on a bike that does 70 or so stock. and yet i dont want to be shifting every time i blink. thanks.
gearing?
- Thread starter 00civic
- Start date
I love these types of threads. You get to spend other peoples money. OK this is going to cost you a little bit of money. You already have the right ideas about what to do in reguards to tooth counts on your sprockets. But did you know that if you go down one tooth on your counter sprocket (the front one) its like going up three teeth on the rear. So if you want to make large gearing changes the counter sprocket is the least expensive change with the most change involved. However you indicated that you'd like a little more acceleration with out loosing too much top end. So your gonna have to spend some money on rear sprockets. I just hope you dont have expensive taste in aluminium sprockets. Buy two sprockets, one that is one tooth larger than what you have and one that is two teeth larger than what you have.
Its my experience that anything larger than 2 teeth up from stock is way to low for cruising type speeds. But is great for tight twisty trails and hill climbs. Truthfully there really isnt that good of a happy medium for good acceleration and maintaining some sort of top end by messing with the counter sprocket and rear sprocket. The only way to achieve what I think you want is to play with the internal gearing in the gear box, and thats really not cheap.
Its my experience that anything larger than 2 teeth up from stock is way to low for cruising type speeds. But is great for tight twisty trails and hill climbs. Truthfully there really isnt that good of a happy medium for good acceleration and maintaining some sort of top end by messing with the counter sprocket and rear sprocket. The only way to achieve what I think you want is to play with the internal gearing in the gear box, and thats really not cheap.
2 smoke thank you, ill let you know how it works out. and james yes i have an 04yz125, athena racing high compression top end 14.8/1 reed valves, throttle body spacer, fmf pipe. the bike is preppy alright, but i barely do motocross, only when i can get around to it, therefore i ride mostly trails, but these trails are wicked 
so i wanted more acceleration.
so i wanted more acceleration.
James
Staff member
2smoke pretty much nailed it.2 smoke thank you, ill let you know how it works out. and james yes i have an 04yz125, athena racing high compression top end 14.8/1 reed valves, throttle body spacer, fmf pipe. the bike is preppy alright, but i barely do motocross, only when i can get around to it, therefore i ride mostly trails, but these trails are wicked
This best option is to just try it, however it does have its added cost. I would suggest steel sprockets as they're cheaper and also last longer. True they weigh a little more but guys like you and me shouldn't be able to tell the difference. Just don't forget about your chain, remember if you add/remove to many teeth you might have to get a longer/shorter chain. The easiest fix is to just change your wheel base length (move the rear wheel forward or backward) however that will change the handling.BTW here's a nifty little calculator.
http://www.sprocketcalculator.com/
For trail riding steel sprockets for sure.
One thing about a MX bike is the close ratio trans. With stock gearing first can be too high for gnarly trails. You end up working the clutch harder than it likes. With some gearing down the tech sections will not need so much clutch. I even do this on my wide ratio big bore XR. When I'm hitting the tight stuff I put on a 13 tooth countershaft sprocket and I put the 14 stocker on for the desert or more open riding.
One thing about a MX bike is the close ratio trans. With stock gearing first can be too high for gnarly trails. You end up working the clutch harder than it likes. With some gearing down the tech sections will not need so much clutch. I even do this on my wide ratio big bore XR. When I'm hitting the tight stuff I put on a 13 tooth countershaft sprocket and I put the 14 stocker on for the desert or more open riding.
thanks guys, thanks alot, too bad its going back in the shop ): just finally got it out saturday, new crank bearings. i was riding today, and i already knew the carb needed to be adjusted, however, while riding it just stopped. weird? yeah. some smoke was coming out of the exhaust tip. i figured it was oil in the exhaust. but after it would not start. i kicked it over, but its hard. not seased up. i figured it could have been hydrolocked. so i went back to my house, took off the spark plug, its fine. still hard to kick. took off the head. still hard to kick. no knicks or any discoloration of the piston or sidewalls. so im stuck.