Number 1 mistake .... red rtv sealant . Rookie mistake ...... get the proper gaskets in a proper kit ....... get a service manual , or take it to someone who knows what they are doing ... I applaud you for trying , but get on UTUBE , OR other media for help ...
An old kawasaki dx250f won't start
- Thread starter Theazezo221
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- doesn't start problems
It not a good idea to use rtv on a float bowl. Too much on/off required and you have to be precise. In a pinch I’ve used fuel resistant Teflon tape and if worked well. So well in fact it came off and back on several times without leaking until the new gasket arrived. Good luck with the electronic issues I can be of no help there. To me ohm is what you voice while trying to calm the urge to burn motorcycle and buy another one.
The rtv I had said it is gasoline resistant so I think it's fine, and I did watch some videos but I followed the instructions in the package first and it did not work. I'm trying YouTube way now.
Will normal plumbing white Teflon tape work or does it have to spiecial kind? I did think about it first but thought rtv was a better way. I'll make sure to try it next. And as far as gaskets go I've never order or bought parts like these before how can I know the one I got is the right one.
I don't have a manual since I'm not sure of the model I have the best one I found was a kdx250sr Australian version which seems to my bike.
My carb is kehnin 33mm I think. So it's probably just stander gasket.
As far as electronics go I'm tempted to just cut all wires and keep the spark plug and the kill switch.
I really hate working with complicated electronics.
Anyway I'm looking forward to try it tomorrow hope everything goes will and I don't explode.
Gaskets , NOT FIX ALL CRAP ... GET AWAY FROM THE CHEAPER ROUTE ... DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT AT ALL.........
Well I just tried and the carb still leaks but the bike did start at half throttle. Then when ever I kik it it kicks back what causes that?
Depends on the mil thickness. There’s some super cheap stuff that can suffer and shred and the fuel resistant stuff is thick. Of course, it is meant as a temporary fix not a replacement for the gasket. Just when I was setting my float height before a ride day, and it started leaking I had to come up with a quick fix. Spool out a few layers and twist into rope. Like this.
# hack thread! 
Very interesting I'm waiting for my gasket to arrive and I wanna get everything ready for it.Depends on the mil thickness. There’s some super cheap stuff that can suffer and shred and the fuel resistant stuff is thick. Of course, it is meant as a temporary fix not a replacement for the gasket. Just when I was setting my float height before a ride day, and it started leaking I had to come up with a quick fix. Spool out a few layers and twist into rope. Like this.
About adjusting the float hight, my float and needle valve seem to work properly, when I blow in from the fuel intake and move the float up it is sealed pretty well. However when I attach it to the fuel tank it start to leak from the overflow tube. I'm guessing it has something to do with the float hight beign too high that it doesn't close the way it should?
# hack thread!
If it leaks from the overflow then yes, you are allowing too much fuel into the bowl for one reason or another. You can always get it to seal with enough pressure applied so blowing lightly while lifting on the float is a subjective test, its best performed while holding the carb at a 45* angle so it seals with its own weight. Appears to be some debate as to the reference of the float level high/low meaning, I have in the past have had a disagreement with a rather experienced gentleman regarding the float being set too high vs the fuel level being set to high.. ad nauseam.. but when I say the float is too high I mean the body of the device floating on the fuel being high not the attached tang/needle, although they serve the intended purpose as a single unit, the tang is adjustable whereas the float body is not and therein lies the perspective. By lowering the tang you raise the float once sealed and vice versa and a little goes a long way. Rule of thumb is keep the point at which the needle seals the seat when the float body is parallel with the bowl mating surface. Either way, if necessary adjust it with an online tutorial of which there are plenty.
I looked into it and it was the float being set to high, now that I think about it I probably raised it unknowingly when I cleaned the carb the first time, as I stated earlier I've set the float untop of the needle not attached to it, which made me have to force it down to set the pin.
I've adjusted it now and everything seems to work.
The bike starts with the choke and a little throttle in 2-3 kicks and idels fine.
There is still a lot of work to be done to get it ready though.
I'm just excited that I got it running and well keep restoring it soon.
Also should I keep the restoration update on this thread or should make a new one.
Thanks to everyone for replying and keeping up with my ignorance, you really kept me going on this and now I feel so proud that I got to fix it at home.
Fantastic. Pride and a sense of accomplishment will serve you well in other areas of the resto. To believe you can do is the first step towards doing. I applaud your effort and look forward to your stories of riding adventure.
And ignorance, is only the lack of knowledge not the ability to absorb it
And ignorance, is only the lack of knowledge not the ability to absorb it
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