2 Stroke 1998 CR80R

Yes, it spins too much.
So we are back at the 'send it off' to wherever stage...
No problem. Zach hasn't seen the bike yet, but once he does and sits on it (Wed), I am sure he will be all about taking it apart and getting it running. This will be a great primer for his intro to basic mechanics.
He's been wanting this, so I will use it for his consumption.
Any advice on the rebuild process is appreciated of course...pretty sure I can get a whole top and bottom kit from Motosport for around $280.00, but need to know more about the Nikasil thing, and what not to do...



You should be able to rebuild that bike for under $60. Head gasket, base gasket and piston used to cost me $55 for my kids rm85. Wiseco makes a special deglazing hone brush for nikasil. It's awesome. Scotchbrite and some PB Blaster works well also.
 
Nikasil can be out-of-round. So you should measure the bore in many directions to get a good reading.
I never really needed one before but since I seem to be acquiring more and more bikes it's becoming obvious that I should have the correct tool to do this.
Where can I pick up a decent tool to do this?
I dont even know what they're called...
 

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
Telescopic Gauges and a set of Micrometers that measure out to the .0000"
Harbor freight T-Gauges have worked really well for me. Micrometers on the other hand can be quite pricy for the good ones. A digital Vernier Caliper can stand-in when micrometers are not available. -BIG DAN:thumb:
 
Wiseco makes a special deglazing hone brush for nikasil. It's awesome. Scotchbrite and some PB Blaster works well also.
When the kiddo arrives tomorrow I'll have him rip it apart and we'll get a look at things first, but if the cylinder is usable I will definitely pick up that $65.00 piston, thanks Mike.
Telescopic Gauges and a set of Micrometers that measure out to the .0000"
Harbor freight T-Gauges have worked really well for me. Micrometers on the other hand can be quite pricy for the good ones. A digital Vernier Caliper can stand-in when micrometers are not available. -BIG DAN:thumb:
Awesome, I have a Harbor Freight near me, thanks Dan.

I cant wait to see the smile on his face when he comes back from his first lap on this thing :jawdrop:
He said he wants to keep the XR100 (sentimental value) but once he rides the CR he wont want the XR anymore I'm sure.
 
Last edited:
When the kiddo arrives tomorrow I'll have him rip it apart and we'll get a look at things first, but if the cylinder is usable I will definitely pick up that $65.00 piston, thanks Mike.

Awesome, I have a Harbor Freight near me, thanks Dan.

I cant wait to see the smile on his face when he comes back from his first lap on this thing :jawdrop:
He said he wants to keep the XR100 (sentimental value) but once he rides the CR he wont want the XR anymore I'm sure.


No problem man.
I bought a slide caliper from harbor freight. Worked great until the digital read out crapped out on me. Still works very well as a slide lol
I also bought their telescopic micrometers or inside micrometer. They work really well especially when checking for out of round cylinders.
 
No problem man.
I bought a slide caliper from harbor freight. Worked great until the digital read out crapped out on me. Still works very well as a slide lol
I also bought their telescopic micrometers or inside micrometer. They work really well especially when checking for out of round cylinders.
HFT does have some good items. They are the IKEA of tools. You need to look out for their crap for sure.
 
Update:
The bambino showed up today. We got him on the CR, and it fits him perfect. Then he got it running. Funny I wasn't able to get it running but he was. Anyway, it didn't run great and the engine made a dry/scraping noise.
So I showed him how to take it apart.

Good news: I think the cylinder is good, and cannot feel any scratches with my fingernail. The piston looks okay. Has a 1.0 stamped on it...
Not so good news: the connecting rod has a lot of side play on the crank, and at the wrist pin.
I am thinking the dry scratchy sound was the main bearings.

So this one is slated for total rebuild. Gonna come out this Saturday.
Anyone got any links to a decent rebuild kit?
 
Update:
The bambino showed up today. We got him on the CR, and it fits him perfect. Then he got it running. Funny I wasn't able to get it running but he was. Anyway, it didn't run great and the engine made a dry/scraping noise.
So I showed him how to take it apart.

Good news: I think the cylinder is good, and cannot feel any scratches with my fingernail. The piston looks okay. Has a 1.0 stamped on it...
Not so good news: the connecting rod has a lot of side play on the crank, and at the wrist pin.
I am thinking the dry scratchy sound was the main bearings.

So this one is slated for total rebuild. Gonna come out this Saturday.
Anyone got any links to a decent rebuild kit?


I always recommend a total rebuild.
I use wiseco/hotrod cranks and oem bearings and gaskets only. You send the crank out to a local reputable shop and they will rebuild it and true it for about $125. You will still need to buy the gaskets and seals.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172459539929
 
Okay,
I brought the cylinder in to work today and sat down with a guy that is a "certified motorcyle mechanic and Harley Davidson specialist" according to his business card, and we measured the cylinder. He is pretty smart from what I gather, and a good ol' boy. He even sent me home with his Blue-Point telescoping gauge set and micrometers to take additional engine measurements.
Cylinder is in decent shape and measures 46.99 to 47.02mm.

I personally would rather not get into the minutia of this, and just order a whole rebuild kit and not deal with me getting involved with the measurements and making poor decisions.
I spoke with Wiseco, they'll send me everything I need for around $400.00++.
I would really like to do this for less than 300 if possible and looking for easy...
Anyone got any thoughts on how to do this for that price?
If I could find a kit with a 1 over piston for under $300 I would order it tonight.
 
Look for crank alone (hot rod 138.00 on RMATV/wiseco/or rod prox 68.00 on RMATV and send your crank out), try get gaskets and seals in a kit 62.00 RMATV (try and get OEM crank bearings and seals), then get a piston separate. You might be able to piece it together from the veriouse places on-line. Ebay, RMATV, etc.
 
I need some help with some measurements so I can decide what/how to do the top end;
Here are the specs from the service manual;
Screenshot at 2017-01-13 15-05-35.png
Here is what I have (mm/in.);
Cylinder -
Top from intake to exhaust : 46.99/1.850
bottom intake to exhaust : 47.02/1.851

Top from side to side : 46.99/1.850
bottom side to side : 46.96/1.849

Piston -
Top from intake to exhaust - 46.74/1.840
Bottom intake to exhaust - 46.96/1.849

Top side to side - 46.69/1.838
Bottom side to side - 46.84/1.844

Ring end gap - .018".

It had 134 psi compression. Its been awhile since I've looked at numbers like this, not sure what to make of it...
 
Last edited:
I need some help with some measurements so I can decide what/how to do the top end;
Here are the specs from the service manual;
View attachment 30215
Here is what I have (mm/in.);
Cylinder -
Top from intake to exhaust : 46.99/1.850
bottom intake to exhaust : 47.02/1.851

Top from side to side : 46.99/1.850
bottom side to side : 46.96/1.849

Piston -
Top from intake to exhaust - 46.74/1.840
Bottom intake to exhaust - 46.96/1.849

Top side to side - 46.69/1.838
Bottom side to side - 46.84/1.844

Ring end gap - .018".

It had 134 psi compression. Its been awhile since I've looked at numbers like this, not sure what to make of it...


This is a question for 1 of 3 ppl
@SRAD97750 @ossagp @2strokesteve89....
You are already bored .1 over. I'm guessing steel sleeve cylinder.
My advice is to take it to a local shop and have them measure it and bore it/hone if needed. As a courtesy buy the piston kit from them.
 
Top