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Everything Dirt Bike
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Kawasaki
1994 Kawasaki KX80 oil leak
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<blockquote data-quote="ossagp" data-source="post: 202573" data-attributes="member: 1650"><p>Now after posting a very well worded question and a pictorial to back up the question you have two ways to go. Most of us believe that anyone who can phrase things as well as you do probably can read well enough to work on and adjust/reset what really is one of the simplest of carburetors you will find propelling a vehicle. Some of us even believe that if you can handle a clutch and shifting gears you are old enough to take on the responsibility of doing that kind of work yourself. It really isn't as hard as some people seem to think, and quite a few people since I have been on the forum here have learned how to do it themselves.</p><p></p><p>The things suggested in first answer to your post are pretty much free. If I had to add anything to what Dan posted is that I would make sure that I had a screwdriver that fits those tiny screws well, as they are easy to round out. If you decide to try the other approach the biggest thing I could warn you about is backing the air screw out too far. They fall out when you are riding once they reach the point that the spring has inadequate pressure to hold the screw in place. As springs age in a compressed position they "sack" or lose pressure as I am sure you already know.</p><p></p><p>The other thing that keeps me from wanting to go far away from the factory settings on anything is the age old "why do I need to do this in the first place?" question. In this case I am confident that answer is in Dan's suggestion to set the float while you are cleaning the carburetor. All things that are free past what you charge yourself for your own time. In the end it could save you lost parts and the possibility of having to replace the spark plug more often. The things to gain, like a bike that runs better, and knowing you can fix things yourself rather than "rig" them is what the real payoff is. (My opinion of course.)<img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/ride.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":ride:" title="Ride :ride:" data-shortname=":ride:" /><img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/ride.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":ride:" title="Ride :ride:" data-shortname=":ride:" /><img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/ride.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":ride:" title="Ride :ride:" data-shortname=":ride:" /><img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/ride.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":ride:" title="Ride :ride:" data-shortname=":ride:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ossagp, post: 202573, member: 1650"] Now after posting a very well worded question and a pictorial to back up the question you have two ways to go. Most of us believe that anyone who can phrase things as well as you do probably can read well enough to work on and adjust/reset what really is one of the simplest of carburetors you will find propelling a vehicle. Some of us even believe that if you can handle a clutch and shifting gears you are old enough to take on the responsibility of doing that kind of work yourself. It really isn't as hard as some people seem to think, and quite a few people since I have been on the forum here have learned how to do it themselves. The things suggested in first answer to your post are pretty much free. If I had to add anything to what Dan posted is that I would make sure that I had a screwdriver that fits those tiny screws well, as they are easy to round out. If you decide to try the other approach the biggest thing I could warn you about is backing the air screw out too far. They fall out when you are riding once they reach the point that the spring has inadequate pressure to hold the screw in place. As springs age in a compressed position they "sack" or lose pressure as I am sure you already know. The other thing that keeps me from wanting to go far away from the factory settings on anything is the age old "why do I need to do this in the first place?" question. In this case I am confident that answer is in Dan's suggestion to set the float while you are cleaning the carburetor. All things that are free past what you charge yourself for your own time. In the end it could save you lost parts and the possibility of having to replace the spark plug more often. The things to gain, like a bike that runs better, and knowing you can fix things yourself rather than "rig" them is what the real payoff is. (My opinion of course.):ride::ride::ride::ride: [/QUOTE]
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1994 Kawasaki KX80 oil leak
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