Let's get this straight

So, Palmer does have his set to idle then. I too usually dont idle mine for more than a minute or two. How long do you let it idle at first start of the day? Thats what a kill button is for, to shut it down whenever you like. Sounds like you do agree with us then. Good.
 
No, I don't agree or have mine set to idle. If it lasts a minute I am probably over exaggerating like my 10" is more like only 6". Cold start with choke out it will run, but I lightly brapp the throttle to keep it running. When warm, it's much less. When I am out riding, even waiting a moment for the kids and/or group to re-group I am popping it a little to keep it running. Or just shut her down completely, one kick and I am back in the game. My boys hate the fact they are set like this, they want to stop and let it run without throttle use and I don't have them set up like that. And yes, proper jets for 1500-6000 ft with pipe and V-force are installed. Carbs cleaned and inspected by good old George, said they are tits, piddle with the air screw if needed and run them as is. I do have a JD kit for mine, not needed until I move to AZ and start at 5400-8000. I say personal preference like Race Gas, I only run Sunoco, and VP is what others like. "WHATEVER"
 

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
Not sure how we got down this road... Hypotheticals and all...
A 2T can and will idle all day long if YOU want it to. Apparently some people don't... :noidea:

I personally shut the bike off after about 15-30 seconds of idling. No reason to waste fuel..
But if left alone, it would still be running when I came back to it.
Setting the idle circuit correctly will protect any rotating parts while the minimal amount of oil is being produced to the engine. But rest assured, oil is being provided if the bike is running. That's how the damn things work..

-BIG DAN:thumb:
 
I agree it is getting oil, however, it is not getting optimal lubrication at time of idle... You should realize that!

Does that make you warm and fuzzy?

Like I said, anyone of you can say and do as you wish to YOUR bike. I will listen too and take advice from A guru of bikes, motors, and racing before I listen to any internet babble.

So, :blah::blah::blah::blah::blah::blah::blah: Like the Peanuts teacher, in the Charlie brown cartoons.
 

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
I will listen too and take advice from A guru of bikes, motors, and racing before I listen to any internet babble.
FWIW, I'm far more interested in finding the (detailed) truth about such topics as these than being right. Not interested in arguing, just trying to understand.

In my mind,
You cannot change the ratio of premix once you've mixed it. Typically Factory Specified.
You cannot change how much fuel/air the engine requires to idle. A physical aspect of the engine.
These will be constants, whether the throttle is pinned or the throttle is shut.
Idle will receive the same volume of oil per volume of fuel as WOT.
Only the engine speed changes. The throttle opening increases the flow of fuel/oil to accomodate the faster spinning engine.

Typically if an engine dies at idle or ''loads up" then it is too rich, not too lean. Too lean would cause an increasing idle or hanging idle. This rich condition means extra fuel is spreading extra oil to the essential components. Probably a good thing.

Now where the dangers of idle throttle oil provisions are dangerously low would be shutting the throttle completely from a WOT top end run. The engine is still at max rpm with a shut throttle (Idle fuel/oil). That to me is FAR more dangerous then letting a bike idle for a minute or two.

Discussion! I refuse to just say, "oh, i heard it from so and so..." We have enough of that in our govt today.
-BIG DAN:thumb:

EDIT:
Another HUGE part of engine life, and why the thing needs oil in the first place, involves engine LOAD.
At idle there is very little load and a ton of residual oil all over the rotating components. I think the engine would need exponentially more oil while under a heavy load.
 
Last edited:
FWIW, I'm far more interested in finding the (detailed) truth about such topics as these than being right. Not interested in arguing, just trying to understand.

In my mind,
You cannot change the ratio of premix once you've mixed it. Typically Factory Specified.
You cannot change how much fuel/air the engine requires to idle. A physical aspect of the engine.
These will be constants, whether the throttle is pinned or the throttle is shut.
Idle will receive the same volume of oil per volume of fuel as WOT.
Only the engine speed changes. The throttle opening increases the flow of fuel/oil to accomodate the faster spinning engine.

Typically if an engine dies at idle or ''loads up" then it is too rich, not too lean. Too lean would cause an increasing idle or hanging idle. This rich condition means extra fuel is spreading extra oil to the essential components. Probably a good thing.

Now where the dangers of idle throttle oil provisions are dangerously low would be shutting the throttle completely from a WOT top end run. The engine is still at max rpm with a shut throttle (Idle fuel/oil). That to me is FAR more dangerous then letting a bike idle for a minute or two.

Discussion! I refuse to just say, "oh, i heard it from so and so..." We have enough of that in our govt today.
-BIG DAN:thumb:

EDIT:
Another HUGE part of engine life, and why the thing needs oil in the first place, involves engine LOAD.
At idle there is very little load and a ton of residual oil all over the rotating components. I think the engine would need exponentially more oil while under a heavy load.


Ok Big D, here is one for ya.

Current 2013 TE 250 93 hours on motor. When pinned and under a load you can smell the motor or oil or something. Time for new top end?

:smirk:
 

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
No, I think a measurement of the piston rings and piston/cylinder inspection is in order at or before 100 hours. But that is the only determinate for changing the top end.
If you are smelling something different in the exhaust, then there is possibly coolant or trans oil entering the mix. That would lead me to a bad seal somewhere.
Typically, once a bearing or clutch 'fries', the smell will STAY.
-BIG DAN:thumb:
 
As I have stated, good for you! Do as you wish.
And to say me listening to George instead of inter webers is not the same as the govt, are you fucking kidding me? Now I really think my mouth taste like shit! Later!!
 
Rack I believe(nobody told me) that a wide open extended load on a 2st, and then you smell a different burn smell, and usually more smoke from the exhaust, is the extra heat burning the excess oil that has built up in the pipe...from my years of racing, wrenching, motors, etc.
 
Ok Big D, here is one for ya.

Current 2013 TE 250 93 hours on motor. When pinned and under a load you can smell the motor or oil or something. Time for new top end?

:smirk:
Any 2 stroke, that is under load will smell like that after I while. I was riding a 2 st with only 2hrs on the motor and after a couple hills climbs and hillclimb drag races, I could smell the same thing.
93hrs though? Time to tear it down. I smell Father and Sons learning project...:thumb:
 
Any 2 stroke, that is under load will smell like that after I while. I was riding a 2 st with only 2hrs on the motor and after a couple hills climbs and hillclimb drag races, I could smell the same thing.
93hrs though? Time to tear it down. I smell Father and Sons learning project...:thumb:

2 hours and you could smell it? What were you doing, drag racing up the sand hills? Do you have any pics to post?
 
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