2 Stroke 1988 CR250R Wont start / Wet Plug
- Thread starter Stringer
- Start date
If you wanna use something like that, you can, it doesn't hurt but that particular stuff isn't necessary, you can use anything similar, when I use spray sealant I usually spray one side of the gasket, stick it on to the sealing surface and use maybe some kind of RTV, or probably my favorite is Permatex ultra grey on the other side of the gasket,but that's just my preference, everybody has they're own preferred way of installing gaskets. But I don't use anything extra on head gaskets, unless it's specified by the gasket manufacture or OE recommendation.
Last edited:
I never used sealer either, no leaks.
Not just motorcycle applications, but any in general, I will use glue spray. One reason is to hold the gasket in place as im Fastening it to where ever it came from. I'll also use different kinds of sealers for different reasons, if there is pitting on the sealing surface. Or if it bridges two separate parts of engine. I.e. Base gasket to where the case halves join. I've sealed thousands of gaskets, automotive and otherwise. Not scared to ask that tube of goo for help.
I've used grey and red rtv on my truck because that is what Ford uses especially on hpop cover and stuff.
I was able to get ahold of that permatex copper spray-a-gasket so I'll give it a shot. I went ahead and scuffed up the bore with the spring loaded hone and mobil 1 oil. Just a few passes, looks pretty good. The pro-x piston kit came in, along with a new wrist pin needle bearing. The piston kit was missing the circlips, and I refuse to use the old ones so I'll have to call around tomorrow and see if I can get them locally. Wrist pin is 18mm. Fuckers.
I soaked up the gas/oil mix that was settled at the bottom of the crankcase by operating the crank and soaking up what stuck to the crank using shop rags. Got it dry as I could and began "flushing it, sorta" by adding PJ1 Silverfire 2T oil to the crank, operated crank, soaked everything up, and repeated about 6 times. I left it lubed up pretty good. I got all gasket surfaces prepped really well. Studs cleaned with solvent, mild brass wire brush, scrubdown, and WD-40 wiped on. Cleaned up lower crankcase coolant paths (which end there) with solvent and tons of q-tips. Cylinder, cylinder head, and powervalve assemblies are ultra clean. Got an entire engine gasket kit ready to go, along with some high quality torque wrenches. Im feeling more confident now.
Just need those circlips now, and front brake rotor and master cylinder rebuild kit comes Thursday. New radiators come tomorrow. Got to figure out how to true wheels while on bike too. Still a lot of work to do, but I have a decent understanding of what to expect, with the exception of the front master cylinder rebuild kit. Trying to do as much as I can between working, and got a super busy day tomorrow. Lots of new little parts laying around that need to be installed. But everyday im able to get something accomplished with it, which is good!
I wouldn't have been able to do any of this without all this help! Can't tell you how much I appreciate it!
I soaked up the gas/oil mix that was settled at the bottom of the crankcase by operating the crank and soaking up what stuck to the crank using shop rags. Got it dry as I could and began "flushing it, sorta" by adding PJ1 Silverfire 2T oil to the crank, operated crank, soaked everything up, and repeated about 6 times. I left it lubed up pretty good. I got all gasket surfaces prepped really well. Studs cleaned with solvent, mild brass wire brush, scrubdown, and WD-40 wiped on. Cleaned up lower crankcase coolant paths (which end there) with solvent and tons of q-tips. Cylinder, cylinder head, and powervalve assemblies are ultra clean. Got an entire engine gasket kit ready to go, along with some high quality torque wrenches. Im feeling more confident now.
Just need those circlips now, and front brake rotor and master cylinder rebuild kit comes Thursday. New radiators come tomorrow. Got to figure out how to true wheels while on bike too. Still a lot of work to do, but I have a decent understanding of what to expect, with the exception of the front master cylinder rebuild kit. Trying to do as much as I can between working, and got a super busy day tomorrow. Lots of new little parts laying around that need to be installed. But everyday im able to get something accomplished with it, which is good!
I wouldn't have been able to do any of this without all this help! Can't tell you how much I appreciate it!
Sounds like you're doing it right.nice job!
Thanks! Well today in my travels I was able to find a Honda powersports store, and they had my OEM piston circlips in stock! I was able to get the piston, cylinder, and head installed and torqued to specifications. I used the copper gasket sealant on the base gasket so far, looked like a real good seal. New wrist pin and wrist pin bearing installed. They had Honda brand synthetic two-stroke oil that, according to the parts guy and label, is the best oil for CR's. So I got some of that and continued to flush the crank oil and replaced with this Honda oil, which is actually thicker. Also put a coat of this stuff on piston, rings, and cylinder sleeve before install. Brand new NGK plug installed with a tiny touch of anti-seize paste. Too dark here now, and flashlight went dead, so I'm done for the day.
My new radiators came in today as well! Havent had a chance to open the box though. Cant wait to bolt those up. Tomorrow if I have time I think I'll work on the HPP powervalve system.
SHIT
well it looks like the "rack" was not installed on cylinder before installation. I don't really see a way to install it without taking everything apart again. Is this the case? It looks like the cam spindle gets in the way of installing it. And Im sure, after using that sealant, I cant separate the cylinder from the case without tearing the gasket. Damn it looks like im screwed. Is there an easy way out???
well it looks like the "rack" was not installed on cylinder before installation. I don't really see a way to install it without taking everything apart again. Is this the case? It looks like the cam spindle gets in the way of installing it. And Im sure, after using that sealant, I cant separate the cylinder from the case without tearing the gasket. Damn it looks like im screwed. Is there an easy way out???
Ok I think I sprung back from that unfortunate incident. Since the cam spindle is attached to the case and only in the way a tiny bit, I backed off the cylinder base screws and tapped up on the cylinder with rubber mallet to release it and raise it only 1/8". Gasket remained intact, and this was just enough for me to slide in the rack (with a light coat of moly paste) into position! Now my original rack was bent, and I couldn't get it in... Thankfully the eBay cylinder came with one and it glided right in! Sweet!
I think I got that part of it under wraps. But I do find the remainder of the powervalve system a bit complex and I'm not sure how to proceed. I do have the Clymer manual, and I study it constantly but I still feel like I don't know wtf to do with this powervalve assembly. I have also googled it to death and wasn't able to come up with any real direction. After I was able to install that rack, the powervalve assembly was working in tandem, I open one side, the other side opens. Ok this looks like im on the right track. Then I engage the spring retainer shaft per manual (just under water pump), clockwise 90 degrees and now the valves have spring to them, as you open them under spring tension, and they snap back after you release it. But they no longer work in tandem. Could this be right?? Also I think I need to work on adjusting valves to close all the way better without snagging. Im just not sure exactly what to do with this, if what I have so far is correct, and what to do next??
Does anybody know???
I was able to open up my radiator box, and these things look nice! $83 shipped, im impressed. The radiator cap is a little cheap though, I may get another or use my old one. Also the $27.50 moose racing rotor and pro-x front master cylinder rebuild kit came in. So I have some part porn
But yeah I need help with this HPP system, if possible to get things rolling again!
I think I got that part of it under wraps. But I do find the remainder of the powervalve system a bit complex and I'm not sure how to proceed. I do have the Clymer manual, and I study it constantly but I still feel like I don't know wtf to do with this powervalve assembly. I have also googled it to death and wasn't able to come up with any real direction. After I was able to install that rack, the powervalve assembly was working in tandem, I open one side, the other side opens. Ok this looks like im on the right track. Then I engage the spring retainer shaft per manual (just under water pump), clockwise 90 degrees and now the valves have spring to them, as you open them under spring tension, and they snap back after you release it. But they no longer work in tandem. Could this be right?? Also I think I need to work on adjusting valves to close all the way better without snagging. Im just not sure exactly what to do with this, if what I have so far is correct, and what to do next??
Does anybody know???
I was able to open up my radiator box, and these things look nice! $83 shipped, im impressed. The radiator cap is a little cheap though, I may get another or use my old one. Also the $27.50 moose racing rotor and pro-x front master cylinder rebuild kit came in. So I have some part porn
But yeah I need help with this HPP system, if possible to get things rolling again!