150F/230F Some stuff to do to the bike

Hey ya'll, hope you're doing well.
I have some work I need to do on my bike... replace the brake lever, fort gator, change the oil and air filter and add some octane boost to the gas tank... Question is... Will the octane boost help or is it hazardous? Royal Purple is what was recommended. Regular gas was put into my 2003 honda CRF230F so that is a no no.

On the brake lever... I have the lever but not the spring... dang you crashing!! And any advice on fixing that, the gator and any other maintaince stuff

Where do you get your decals from? I need to get some numbers on my baby! Maybe it will bring some good luck... lol
 

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
If you need anything better than 87 octane for a 230F, then you have the baddest 230F I've ever seen.
Even the 11.1:1 piston will run on 91 octane all day, or so is reported.
Compression tests on 4Ts under 200psi will run on pump gas all day. (some advanced timing exclusions apply)

Octane of gas is only the resistance of the fuel to ignition.
Running too high of octane actually steals power, as the fuel is too hard to fully combust in a lower compression motor.
-BIG DAN:thumb:
 
I havent tried all the octane boosters lately, but in the past they have been pretty much a waste. yours would run fine on our local pump premium which is only 90 cornfree octane. I do use a product from Klotz called Hitrate that is a concentrated fuel mix. you use 1 gallon to 9 of pump premium to duplicate certain race gases, and again, those are not required for a low stressed engine and you gain nothing by their useage.

unless you broke the brake pedal they can generally be saved for at least backup useage even if they need to be heated to get them back in a useable shape.

i would go to bikebandit.com etc to get a spring if it isnt in the shop local. then take it to a real stocking hardware store and buy two more similar ones to keep in your tool box. the gator should be avail at bb too but you may want a color keyed upgrade that will probably be cheaper as a pair than the oe is in single
 
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If you need anything better than 87 octane for a 230F, then you have the baddest 230F I've ever seen.
Even the 11.1:1 piston will run on 91 octane all day, or so is reported.
Compression tests on 4Ts under 200psi will run on pump gas all day. (some advanced timing exclusions apply)

Octane of gas is only the resistance of the fuel to ignition.
Running too high of octane actually steals power, as the fuel is too hard to combust in a lower compression motor.
-BIG DAN:thumb:
I havent tried all the octane boosters lately, but in the past they have been pretty much a waste. yours would run fine on our local pump premium which is only 90 cornfree octane. I do use a product from Klotz called Hitrate that is a concentrated fuel mix. you use 1 gallon to 9 of pump premium to duplicate certain race gases, and again, those are not required for a low stressed engine and you gain nothing by their useage.

I figured I wasn't running the bike hard enough to do jack but I will get the premium from now on. It's been using the low octane, 86 or what ever it is. Still doesn't seem to be any major issues with it, yet... The shifter sticks and doesn't like to go into first which is challenging at first but ya know, I can work around it.

unless you broke the brake pedal they can generally be saved for at least backup useage even if they need to be heated to get them back in a useable shape.

i would go to bikebandit.com etc to get a spring if it isnt in the shop local. then take it to a real stocking hardware store and buy two more similar ones to keep in your tool box. the gator should be avail at bb too but you may want a color keyed upgrade that will probably be cheaper as a pair than the oe is in single

I broke broke it hehe. I'm super special like that. I ordered some gators that are suppose to fit but you know how that goes. I shouldn't have used amazon!
 
If you need anything better than 87 octane for a 230F, then you have the baddest 230F I've ever seen.
Even the 11.1:1 piston will run on 91 octane all day, or so is reported.
Compression tests on 4Ts under 200psi will run on pump gas all day. (some advanced timing exclusions apply)

Octane of gas is only the resistance of the fuel to ignition.
Running too high of octane actually steals power, as the fuel is too hard to fully combust in a lower compression motor.
-BIG DAN:thumb:

I figured I wasn't running the bike hard enough to do jack but I will get the premium from now on. It's been using the low octane, 89 or what ever it is. Still doesn't seem to be any major issues with it, yet... The shifter sticks and doesn't like to go into first which is challenging at first but ya know, I can work around it

I havent tried all the octane boosters lately, but in the past they have been pretty much a waste. yours would run fine on our local pump premium which is only 90 cornfree octane. I do use a product from Klotz called Hitrate that is a concentrated fuel mix. you use 1 gallon to 9 of pump premium to duplicate certain race gases, and again, those are not required for a low stressed engine and you gain nothing by their useage.

unless you broke the brake pedal they can generally be saved for at least backup useage even if they need to be heated to get them back in a useable shape.

i would go to bikebandit.com etc to get a spring if it isnt in the shop local. then take it to a real stocking hardware store and buy two more similar ones to keep in your tool box. the gator should be avail at bb too but you may want a color keyed upgrade that will probably be cheaper as a pair than the oe is in single

That looks like a good place to get stuff. I'm going to swing by the local Honda shop if I can make it during business hours, but I will be ordering extra of it all!! I broke the brake bad, in 2 pieces, not including the attachment. IDK how I managed that but I'm special like that
 
Go out and grab some asv levers from Rocky Mountain or Motorsport. No need for an octane booster but maybe run some Stabil with your gas. It will help keep the effects of ethanol at bay.
 
Now I have a "sticky" shifter. It fights with me to go down in first, especially after I fall down... Which I've been doing a lot of since I'm going faster now. I also want to make sure the forks can handle some small jumps, nothing like a double or anything but I'm starting to push my comfort zone. I also need pointers on when to shift. I know the sound of the bike is a big clue but am I suppose to shift up when I get to the climax of the hill? or just let it ride out sounding high? and corners... damn 180 corners get me
 
Well your shifter could be bent. That will cause a sticky shifter feeling especially if it's rubbing against the case cover. Take a pic and post it.

You don't need to be all wound out before shifting. It takes practice but you'll get used to it. Listen to your car when it shifts. Same principal.

Check out Gary Semics MOTO videos. He's been teaching for years.
 
Well your shifter could be bent. That will cause a sticky shifter feeling especially if it's rubbing against the case cover. Take a pic and post it.

You don't need to be all wound out before shifting. It takes practice but you'll get used to it. Listen to your car when it shifts. Same principal.

Check out Gary Semics MOTO videos. He's been teaching for years.

I'll try to take some pics tonight. It's hard since it gets dark so freaking early. I hate day light savings time
 
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