Well i was raceing with YD today and was running 2 classes. At the end of the first moto i noticed that my clutch freeplay was too much. So i played with the adjustment on the cable and it was fine. At the end of the first race i noticed it was doing the same thing. My races were back to back so i had to go straight to the line. After the first turn i lost the clutch all together. I am out of adjustment and its a new cable, lever, pushrod, and actuator rod. So did the plates just get too worn? It didn't seem to slip before it gave out.
No clutch
- Thread starter Mojavekid18
- Start date
It could be something easy like a broken cable.
In my experience there are two things that can happen. The friction material can literally break off. The other is overheating and having the clutch fry. All it takes is a little slipping and the heat builds until the friction material more or less burns. Actually both are usually due to overheating, but there is a difference in the endpoint.
Open your oil cap and take a quick wiff. If it smells like a forest fire then its the fried clutch.
Usually all you need is a new pack of fiber plates and metal discs.
If you weren't experiencing any slippage or uncontrollable grabbing, I would say the actual fibres and steels are fine. It would take alot to smoke a clutch while racing on a racetrack. It's easier to do when you're not actually moving forward very fast... (mud, sand, tight switchbacks)
I would pull off the clutch cover, pressure plate, and re-adjust your pushrod/cup. Of course check the plates while they are out.
Everytime I have adjustment issues, the cup has spun out of adjustment, not the cable or plates.
-BIG DAN
Motion-pro
i know the cable is good as it still moves the actuator, i'll take a wiff of the oil
Thanks, this seems the most possible. I'll see what up with it this week
If you weren't experiencing any slippage or uncontrollable grabbing, I would say the actual fibres and steels are fine. It would take alot to smoke a clutch while racing on a racetrack. It's easier to do when you're not actually moving forward very fast... (mud, sand, tight switchbacks)
I would pull off the clutch cover, pressure plate, and re-adjust your pushrod/cup. Of course check the plates while they are out.
Everytime I have adjustment issues, the cup has spun out of adjustment, not the cable or plates.
-BIG DAN
I would pull off the clutch cover, pressure plate, and re-adjust your pushrod/cup. Of course check the plates while they are out.
Everytime I have adjustment issues, the cup has spun out of adjustment, not the cable or plates.
-BIG DAN
I dont think I have an adjustment for that.... please explain...
Went out an looked at it today. Took me all of 2 seconds to figure it out. My actuator bearing is so worn that the actuator jumped over the pushrod. Easy fix and fairly cheap which is always a good thing
James
Staff member
And that'll be when you hit that triple....I've redone/checked everyone thats not inside the cases. If any of those are going bad i'll just wait until it blows up
Im glad you figured it out easily. 
AND PALMER
There is a threaded cup that actually rides on the pressure plate to actuate it. This cup can be adjusted and locked into position with an external nut. Typically this threaded rod has a phillips or allen tip for ease of adjustment.
Hopefully these pictures help out. NOT ALL BIKES ARE MADE/DESIGNED THE SAME! Your bikes may not have this adjustment.
In this image,
(13) and (14) make up the "cup" assembly. One tip is cupped for the ball bearing (31), one tip is phillips or allen.
(15) and (16) are the adjustment nut and lock washer.
This image is how you adjust it.
-BIG DAN
AND PALMER
There is a threaded cup that actually rides on the pressure plate to actuate it. This cup can be adjusted and locked into position with an external nut. Typically this threaded rod has a phillips or allen tip for ease of adjustment.
Hopefully these pictures help out. NOT ALL BIKES ARE MADE/DESIGNED THE SAME! Your bikes may not have this adjustment.
In this image,
(13) and (14) make up the "cup" assembly. One tip is cupped for the ball bearing (31), one tip is phillips or allen.
(15) and (16) are the adjustment nut and lock washer.
This image is how you adjust it.
-BIG DAN
Im glad you figured it out easily.
AND PALMER
There is a threaded cup that actually rides on the pressure plate to actuate it. This cup can be adjusted and locked into position with an external nut. Typically this threaded rod has a phillips or allen tip for ease of adjustment.
Hopefully these pictures help out. NOT ALL BIKES ARE MADE/DESIGNED THE SAME! Your bikes may not have this adjustment.
In this image,
(13) and (14) make up the "cup" assembly. One tip is cupped for the ball bearing (31), one tip is phillips or allen.
(15) and (16) are the adjustment nut and lock washer.
This image is how you adjust it.
-BIG DAN
Thanks Big Dan
I actually have never seen an adjustment like that in my entire life...
