2 Stroke Help with 85 CR250 clutch

[divemaster5734]

Ok, so I picked up a older cr250 just for the smell of it.
It's been modified with 1991 forks, and rear disk brakes.
The clutch didn't work worth a dang so I ordered a complete new EBC.
Swapped out the friction and spacer plates and springs.
When I pull the clutch I can see the rod push out on the pressure plate, but there's no disengage action.
Have tried adjusting the cable.
A previous repair was a weld on the right case, and the springs that were in it were not the factory spec.
I got a new rod bearing and couldn't find anything missing.
There's about 1/8" of throw movement on the actuator rod.
Any suggestions?

 

[SRAD97750]

Ok, so I picked up a older cr250 just for the smell of it.
It's been modified with 1991 forks, and rear disk brakes.
The clutch didn't work worth a dang so I ordered a complete new EBC.
Swapped out the friction and spacer plates and springs.
When I pull the clutch I can see the rod push out on the pressure plate, but there's no disengage action.
Have tried adjusting the cable.
A previous repair was a weld on the right case, and the springs that were in it were not the factory spec.
I got a new rod bearing and couldn't find anything missing.
There's about 1/8" of throw movement on the actuator rod.
Any suggestions?

Have a picture? The rod should be pushing on the pressure plate. If the pressure plate moves, then it's disengaged. Any movement will be enough. -BIG DAN

 

[divemaster5734]

No pictures but you can see the plate flex when you pull in the clutch, except the clutch doesn't disengage.
On all other bikes I've worked on with the case off you can pull in the lever and watch the operation.
I soaked the new plates in oil over night before installing and dipped them in the deep oil side of the pan before installing.
The oil was pouring out as I torqued the springs.
When I pull the lever the center of the pressure plate will flex out, but that doesn't have any effect on the plates.
Could the pressure plate just be so worn out it just distorts under pressure and doesnt pull at the springs?

 

[SRAD97750]

Possibly, but I have never been able to get new plates to slide by hand or by pushing it around. The bike has to be running to get the plates moving. Especially when new. They are like velcro.

Most of the time (in my experience) with a fresh set of clutch plates you have to adjust it once it's got a few hours on it.
Get it running and jam it in gear with some throttle.
-BIG DAN

 

[divemaster5734]

OH Nooooo.... the person I got the bike from had it for a year and got never did anything to it. He didn't know crap, and after watching him ride it in the parking lot it was obvious he was a danger to himself and anyone close by.
When I opened the case it there was a fresh gasket, and the friction plates looked new.
The springs were shorter and wider than the ones that came in the EBC kit, but that would only cause a different pull pressure and engagement speed.
I changed them all out just because I didn't know any history other than 5 minutes of the previous owner.
He did say he only rode it twice in the year and that's why he was selling.
I wonder if the clutch was still so new it was still stiff?
I only started it at home and rode it 1 block before tearing it apart.
How long will a new clutch be stiff?
It's been years since I did a clutch, and I never analized one before, just put it in and rode it, but don't remember if I noticed screwy performance to start.

 

[SRAD97750]

Just the first heat cycle or so. After that it'll be normal. You just want to break it in and knock off all the imperfections that cause it to drag.
If you can see the pressure plate move visually, then it's disengaging. Just the plates are sticking together. -BIG DAN

 

[cleonard]

Was the basket worn with deep notches like this?

 

[divemaster5734]

I don't remember seeing anything on the sides. There were at least a couple of the stands with a slightly beveled end.
Could I just pull the basket and use a grinder to remove any groves or will that create too big a gap for the friction plates to grab?


update: After cleo's post I checked out pictures of a good basket. Never even thought about that.
Going to go open it up and take a look.
Thanks to both you guys for the advice.

 

[divemaster5734]

Wow... never thought to look, but haven't ever owned a bike that's so old.
gonna try to find a used one at bent bike.

 

[SRAD97750]

Sorry to hear of your loss. The grooves prevent the plates from disengaging from each other. You can file down the notching but it makes the clutch package slop back and forth between forward acceleration and engine braking. Not a huge deal, but can groove even faster with the slop.
Here's one on ebay that's not too bad, but still starting to notch. You could get alot of good usable hours out of this replacement.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-1985-H...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5cb9d47d&vxp=mtr
-BIG DAN

 

[SRAD97750]

Still notching but better.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-Honda-CR...:1985|Model:CR250&hash=item2a2d84ce4b&vxp=mtr
-BIG DAN

 

[divemaster5734]

I was looking at those also.
Did file down the fingers today.
Have snapped three of the six bolts off at the head trying to tighten them on the basket.
There were two other case bolts missing, had to tap those to 7mm and drill out the case.
It would make sense the guy I got it from was the hack, and he just lied his ass off for the sale.
Discovered the exhaust was only held by the manifold springs and a band clamp at the muffler.
I love working on bikes, and enjoy riding after a build, but fixing some lazy faggots crap work is frustrating as hell.
At least I got it fairly cheap, and it has excellent compression.
Maybe he wasn't lazy, just dumb as a freaking rock.
Once I got the clutch pressure plate back on I could see the friction plates moving when pulling the lever.
So it's going to work, at least until I order one of the baskets.

 

[divemaster5734]

no good deed goes unpunished.. talk about cheap hardware, couldn't even torque to 10lbs.