65 Crank out of true symptoms?

I've had this kx65 for a while now and it still runs like crap. I've rebuilt top and bottom end with wiseco. Also had the cylinder replated and resurfaced by powerseal usa. New plug. New everything. When I crank it, it takes forever to get it to finally crank and once it's actually running, it has no power and is super slow and just doesn't run right. I finally got tired of figuring it out and took it to a shop. They set timing, did leak down test, compression test. He said that the crank is 0.008" runout and bound. He said that's my problem. Would that cause it to run like this? Compression is 155 psi.
 
You got a bad crank because you didn't check the runout before installing. Had you had mechanical skills and a manual a looooooooooooooooooooooooong time ago.....
 
You got a bad crank because you didn't check the runout before installing. Had you had mechanical skills and a manual a looooooooooooooooooooooooong time ago.....
I never knew about any of that until now. I thought the crank was good to go since I bought it brand new. So you think that's what's making it run so bad?
 
Timing-jetting-fuel, and it being out doesn't help the case/symptoms. But even a new OEM crank would need to be measured for trueness prior to install, they get banged around if not taken care of from assembly-packing-shipping-jobber-consumer.
 
No, right now it's not running good you said. But if you split the cases, true the crank, have it properly timed and jetted, new spark plug, no problems with any electrical, then it should run like a grape ape.
 
No, right now it's not running good you said. But if you split the cases, true the crank, have it properly timed and jetted, new spark plug, no problems with any electrical, then it should run like a grape ape.
Ok that's what I wanna hear. Ready to get this thing going since its been a nightmare from the moment I bought it over 4 months ago!!
 
I never knew about any of that until now. I thought the crank was good to go since I bought it brand new. So you think that's what's making it run so bad?
I think we all told you to get a manual, and it would have taken you through the "timing a dirt bike steps". You then would have found out that at top dead center, your timing marks wouldn't align, or your timing marks would, and it wouldn't be at top dead center.
 
Though uncommon sometimes a new crank will be untrue.
This only the 2nd one I have ever heard of in 44yrs if it is indeed untrue.

Like ossa said. Focus on the bind. To me that says unaligned cases or a bearing is pressed in crooked.
Again, we can not stress enough how important it is to have a paper manual to assist in this stuff.
 
:rolleyes:Change your name to manual and you'll never need one, because you are one! But don't work on bikes without the specific one needed.:prof: :smirk:

Though uncommon sometimes a new crank will be untrue.
This only the 2nd one I have ever heard of in 44yrs if it is indeed untrue.

Like ossa said. Focus on the bind. To me that says unaligned cases or a bearing is pressed in crooked.
Again, we can not stress enough how important it is to have a paper manual to assist in this stuff.
I have not found one out of spec myself. But on the other forum I attend there are a few. That's why wiseco gets such a bad name over there. Key way wrong, and out of spec. :rolleyes:
 
I have yet to find one that came out of the box so out of spec as .008. but far enough that I have trued them before using them, and in the past I have welded them and rechecked. (I have never found that welding them moved them in any way, but I get the occasional critic that tells me about his dad's best friend's cousin who knows the pope finding it all the time.) yep, you can change the balance welding them. if you want to know how I fix that I can type it out later.
 
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