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Everything Dirt Bike
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Yamaha
Bleeding Dry Line Tips
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<blockquote data-quote="RageD" data-source="post: 211886" data-attributes="member: 4512"><p>Alright, so I actually spent all of Wednesday night rebuilding the master cylinder and was busy Thursday; had the day off today so took a crack at this.</p><p></p><p>After 2 bottles of brake fluid and several hours of bleeding, I feel a bit defeated <img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/smile.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-shortname=":)" /> Where I sit today: the brake pads will grab and release the rotor but the lever is super weak. What I would consider a "normal" handful of brakes takes me all the way to the bars <img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/frown.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" data-shortname=":(" /></p><p></p><p>I started with the dry line and the bottom up approach. I initially wasn't paying much attention and made a mess on the garage floor with the reservoir overflowed <img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/frown.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":(" title="Frown :(" data-shortname=":(" /> That aside, I was excited to feel the brakes. At first, there was no lever. After pumping the brakes up I realized I got to a point where the pads grabbed the rotor, but it felt the same as it does now.</p><p></p><p>At this point, I began to alternate between the traditional "pump, crack, pull, close, release" method of bleeding and the vacuum pump. I never noticed any air bubbles coming out with either method: just fluid. I also tried various ways of reorienting the hose to make it easier for air to travel through including making the caliper higher than the master: no luck.</p><p></p><p>Right now, I've got the bike sitting with the lever zip tied to the bars. I'm sure that won't do much though as I'm feeling confident there is probably air hidden in that hose (or somewhere) still. Do you guys have any ideas? I just rebuilt the caliper and master cylinder. I reused the pistons because they didn't have any noticeable scoring. Similarly, I triple-checked that I put the seal cups on properly on the piston for the master cylinder. Any other areas that may be causing problems!</p><p></p><p>I'm going to check again tomorrow but one of my pistons looked a bit wet (though I just replaced the seals... and the other way bone dry) but I also spilled some brake fluid in that area. I'm going to let it dry off and check again, but is it likely a loose fitting seal could be the problem?</p><p></p><p>Thanks!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RageD, post: 211886, member: 4512"] Alright, so I actually spent all of Wednesday night rebuilding the master cylinder and was busy Thursday; had the day off today so took a crack at this. After 2 bottles of brake fluid and several hours of bleeding, I feel a bit defeated :) Where I sit today: the brake pads will grab and release the rotor but the lever is super weak. What I would consider a "normal" handful of brakes takes me all the way to the bars :( I started with the dry line and the bottom up approach. I initially wasn't paying much attention and made a mess on the garage floor with the reservoir overflowed :( That aside, I was excited to feel the brakes. At first, there was no lever. After pumping the brakes up I realized I got to a point where the pads grabbed the rotor, but it felt the same as it does now. At this point, I began to alternate between the traditional "pump, crack, pull, close, release" method of bleeding and the vacuum pump. I never noticed any air bubbles coming out with either method: just fluid. I also tried various ways of reorienting the hose to make it easier for air to travel through including making the caliper higher than the master: no luck. Right now, I've got the bike sitting with the lever zip tied to the bars. I'm sure that won't do much though as I'm feeling confident there is probably air hidden in that hose (or somewhere) still. Do you guys have any ideas? I just rebuilt the caliper and master cylinder. I reused the pistons because they didn't have any noticeable scoring. Similarly, I triple-checked that I put the seal cups on properly on the piston for the master cylinder. Any other areas that may be causing problems! I'm going to check again tomorrow but one of my pistons looked a bit wet (though I just replaced the seals... and the other way bone dry) but I also spilled some brake fluid in that area. I'm going to let it dry off and check again, but is it likely a loose fitting seal could be the problem? Thanks! [/QUOTE]
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Bleeding Dry Line Tips
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