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Everything Dirt Bike
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Suzuki
90 rm 250 questions
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<blockquote data-quote="2smoke" data-source="post: 150775" data-attributes="member: 563"><p>The first thing I would do is put fresh fuel with the correct pre mix in it. 32 to 1 is pretty standard. Then I would put a fresh spark plug in it. Then I would pull the carb and clean it thoroughly with carburetor cleaner. Before you pull the carburetor I would get a manual. Because while you have it apart it is a good idea to make sure that the floats are adjusted correctly. 15-16 mm should be pretty close. This job isnt hard to do. But the manual will give you pictures and better description than I can at this point. I would also clean and re oil your air cleaner. Or better yet replace it they dont cost much. Once youve reassembled the carb install it. You may need to make some adjustments on the carb. First will be the Idle screw. This will typically have a jam nut on it. Loosen the jam nut and run screw in till it bottoms out. Then back it out about 2 full 360 degree turn. The next adjustment will be the air screw. This should be on the same side as the idle screw. Run it in till it stops and then back it out 1 and a 1/2 turn. This should get you started. Ahhh but there is more. Once youve got it running she isnt ready to ride yet. You need to ensure its jetted correctly. You should have taken them out during the carb cleaning they will be found inside the carb bowl with the floats. I dont know what sizes they should be but with a little research at your local bike shop you should be able to find the right sizes. If none of this works, I would then go on to the reeds. Those are mounted on the back side of the cylinder and infront of were the carb goes into the intake boot. But since you dont know what condition they are in you may as well replace them while you have the carb out for cleaning. But worn reeds will make the bike very hard to start and if you can start it. Its gonna run like crap anyways. These are pretty easy to do and if you start the job say on a saturday morning. You could be riding in a couple of hours afterwards. These are all simple jobs.</p><p> </p><p>Now if none of this works it could be time for a new stator, but only if your not getting spark. Or worse yet a new top end. Not hard to do but kind of expensive. At or about $200. Or even more worse a replate on your cylinder. But we wont go there just yet. Lets hope for the best and see what happens.</p><p> </p><p>OK disregard most of what I just said. Because I went back and read you whole post. Especially if your going to have the motor rebuilt. The whole motor right? Not just the piston and rings. If you want a good running engine it will be worth your while since the shop is going to have it to have them do the bottom end also. Just for piece of mind. Have them go through the carb too. However..... you could do all of this yourself if you have all the right tools and only pay for parts. Not labor. That will be a huge savings on your wallet and its good to know how to work on your own bike. As for your plastics. Pretty much any of the online parts warehouses should have plastics for your bike. However you may have to look around a little due to the age of your machine. But they arent hard to find and should come in a variety of colors to choose from. But I would stick with yellow fenders white number plates and yellow radiator shrouds. Thats about as close to factory colors as you can get.</p><p> </p><p>As for class of racing........... At the bottom typically novice or D class. But Im not a good source of info on that. Im a desert and trail rider. But have fun with it. I had a 92 RM 250 and it was a joy to ride.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="2smoke, post: 150775, member: 563"] The first thing I would do is put fresh fuel with the correct pre mix in it. 32 to 1 is pretty standard. Then I would put a fresh spark plug in it. Then I would pull the carb and clean it thoroughly with carburetor cleaner. Before you pull the carburetor I would get a manual. Because while you have it apart it is a good idea to make sure that the floats are adjusted correctly. 15-16 mm should be pretty close. This job isnt hard to do. But the manual will give you pictures and better description than I can at this point. I would also clean and re oil your air cleaner. Or better yet replace it they dont cost much. Once youve reassembled the carb install it. You may need to make some adjustments on the carb. First will be the Idle screw. This will typically have a jam nut on it. Loosen the jam nut and run screw in till it bottoms out. Then back it out about 2 full 360 degree turn. The next adjustment will be the air screw. This should be on the same side as the idle screw. Run it in till it stops and then back it out 1 and a 1/2 turn. This should get you started. Ahhh but there is more. Once youve got it running she isnt ready to ride yet. You need to ensure its jetted correctly. You should have taken them out during the carb cleaning they will be found inside the carb bowl with the floats. I dont know what sizes they should be but with a little research at your local bike shop you should be able to find the right sizes. If none of this works, I would then go on to the reeds. Those are mounted on the back side of the cylinder and infront of were the carb goes into the intake boot. But since you dont know what condition they are in you may as well replace them while you have the carb out for cleaning. But worn reeds will make the bike very hard to start and if you can start it. Its gonna run like crap anyways. These are pretty easy to do and if you start the job say on a saturday morning. You could be riding in a couple of hours afterwards. These are all simple jobs. Now if none of this works it could be time for a new stator, but only if your not getting spark. Or worse yet a new top end. Not hard to do but kind of expensive. At or about $200. Or even more worse a replate on your cylinder. But we wont go there just yet. Lets hope for the best and see what happens. OK disregard most of what I just said. Because I went back and read you whole post. Especially if your going to have the motor rebuilt. The whole motor right? Not just the piston and rings. If you want a good running engine it will be worth your while since the shop is going to have it to have them do the bottom end also. Just for piece of mind. Have them go through the carb too. However..... you could do all of this yourself if you have all the right tools and only pay for parts. Not labor. That will be a huge savings on your wallet and its good to know how to work on your own bike. As for your plastics. Pretty much any of the online parts warehouses should have plastics for your bike. However you may have to look around a little due to the age of your machine. But they arent hard to find and should come in a variety of colors to choose from. But I would stick with yellow fenders white number plates and yellow radiator shrouds. Thats about as close to factory colors as you can get. As for class of racing........... At the bottom typically novice or D class. But Im not a good source of info on that. Im a desert and trail rider. But have fun with it. I had a 92 RM 250 and it was a joy to ride. [/QUOTE]
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