250 2 stroke clutch problems??
- Thread starter jhudd83
- Start date
I think I answered this in another post, but your clutch is grabbing, make sure the clutch cable is not too tight, should be adjusted with a little free play, if this checks out, try changing the transmission oil. Other than these things you are probably looking at either sticking clutch plates or notched clutch basket, either way you'll need to pull clutch cover ,pull clutch plates and inspect for wear.
What bike? Age? Any past history on the clutch IE replacement recently.
It's a 96 ktm 250 exc. I have no past history on bik. I recently bought the bike. It rides good changes out fine. It just dies out when I come to a stop. I trail ride and it makes it extremely hard in the woods to ride it will idle fine but as soon as I put it into gear,it tugs a little and acts like it wants to roll but if I don't blip the throttle it will go dead same as when coming to a stop.
basket could be worn, warped plates, clutch cable adjustment unless it has the hydraulic clutch....
http://youtu.be/G7FB8KyPLGg
it should be a cable clutch, the lever should have a just a little play when all the way out, I have had several KTMs and have had to file the notches off the basket on the older ones, never had plates go bad on one yet, but it could be plates as well...look thru the oil fill hole with a flashlite and you can see the edges of the clutch basket, you may be able to see a waviness to the fingers of the basket...if so take it apart and evaluate the basket, many times you can file the waves out one time...next time it needs to be replaced
Also, auto trans synthetic fluid will make it shift better, reduce clutch drag and find neutral easier
Also, auto trans synthetic fluid will make it shift better, reduce clutch drag and find neutral easier
When a clutch starts wearing it seldom is even wear. Springs go out along with plates. when you get uneven spring tension you get more drag than usual. any wet clutch is going to drag some, even at first. the dry ones which are few and far between almost act like the rig goes into neutral when the clutch is disengaged. but as soon as wear begins they will drag too.
If you really want one that drags the least you can either change parts constantly or adjust the spring tension and or replace spings. Or you live without one that lets you put your bike into gear with the bike at idle, or sit and idle with the clutch disengaged.
Spring adjusting now consists usually of the use of shims. back when we had ones where the spring studs were longer than now it was easier. I have found few spings in aftermarket kits that were all equal length or tension. easy to measure the length with calipers and shimming them. the problem is that in 20 hours or less they lose the adjustment.
If you really want one that drags the least you can either change parts constantly or adjust the spring tension and or replace spings. Or you live without one that lets you put your bike into gear with the bike at idle, or sit and idle with the clutch disengaged.
Spring adjusting now consists usually of the use of shims. back when we had ones where the spring studs were longer than now it was easier. I have found few spings in aftermarket kits that were all equal length or tension. easy to measure the length with calipers and shimming them. the problem is that in 20 hours or less they lose the adjustment.
Cute video, is that you?
I hope you didnt mean me.
After watching that video I had to chuckle. He was confused about the perch. 7/8, 1 1/8 bars makes no difference at the grip area. He had a perch that required the plastic sleave to make it work. It looked like the ones I use, made by Longhorn with the nice adjuster and plastic sleave to help move it a get off, AKA loss of talent. Definitely grinding the stopper off the leaver was the way to go. 