250 Rebuilding KX250

AdamRides87

AdamRides87

PALMER84ONE:
Yes, you can check movement if you push, pull back and forth, and pry one way then the other with a pry bar, large screw driver, etc. don't look directly at the crank but just off to the side on the case. That way you will see the slightest movement out of the corner of your eye.
Primitive, but it does work.
And those pics on the frame and front end are damn sexy.
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Alright. I will try that. Where should I be prying on exactly? And thanks. I got a little turned on myself looking at her frame :thumb:
 
PALMER84ONE

PALMER84ONE

Second picture, put a rag under the primary gear, pry up with pry bar, etc.
Flywheel side, same thing.
No need to replace cylinder or head studs unless they are broken, stripped, or worse.
 
AdamRides87

AdamRides87

PALMER84ONE:
Second picture, put a rag under the primary gear, pry up with pry bar, etc.
Flywheel side, same thing.
No need to replace cylinder or head studs unless they are broken, stripped, or worse.
Click to expand...
Alright. Great. Would you ever touch power valve components with a wire wheel? Someone told me they will be fine and clean up great but I'm very skeptical about this....
 
AdamRides87

AdamRides87

snowflake:
Crank bearings are rather cheap from what I've found, the main thing will be a little more work added.
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I'm not worried about the work. I got all winter to do it, just don't wanna buy a clutch holder, flywheel puller and crank puller if I don't need to. I'd rather put that money into a top end and gaskets
 
PALMER84ONE

PALMER84ONE

If there is no movement in the mains and big end on the rod, I would run it. No sence in spending and replacing what is not needed. But, everone has an opinion on that.
Do the math, 82 for mains, 170-300 for a crank depending on AF or OEM. If the bike was fine this season, get another one out of it, then rebuild it.
Get the tools to do the job over the next year and rebuild complete next season.
 
Mihylo33

Mihylo33

PALMER84ONE:
If there is no movement in the mains and big end on the rod, I would run it. No sence in spending and replacing what is not needed. But, everone has an opinion on that.
Do the math, 82 for mains, 170-300 for a crank depending on AF or OEM. If the bike was fine this season, get another one out of it, then rebuild it.
Get the tools to do the job over the next year and rebuild complete next season.
Click to expand...

Ebc clutch tool $16
Case splitter $50
Bearings for that bike around $40
Crank rebuild around $150 or hotrod for 200
It's a $400 rebuild for sure.
 
AdamRides87

AdamRides87

Mihylo33:
Ebc clutch tool $16
Case splitter $50
Bearings for that bike around $40
Crank rebuild around $150 or hotrod for 200
It's a $400 rebuild for sure.
Click to expand...
Alright. So I see the tusk clutch holder/flywheel holder for $17, the 27mn flywheel puller for $11. Do I need to get the case splitter AND crank puller? Or can I just get one of them?
 
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