I just replaced my throttle assembly on my rm250, as soon as I started it the rpms went through the roof, adjusting the cable didn't help.
RM250 Help! Throttle problems!
- Thread starter Teejmannix
- Start date
Same carb?? Just new cable
Sounds something is way out of adjustment
I'd check it at the carb were it is hooked up
U might have to take off rear subframe and look into carb as it sits on the bike,, you may be able to do the same off,, this is to check if all is moving as it should, and to see if it sets on the slide screw. And make sure the hand throttle is not tight against the bar end
Sounds something is way out of adjustment
I'd check it at the carb were it is hooked up
U might have to take off rear subframe and look into carb as it sits on the bike,, you may be able to do the same off,, this is to check if all is moving as it should, and to see if it sets on the slide screw. And make sure the hand throttle is not tight against the bar end
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The first thing i would do, is to make sure that I had play in the throttle cable, quite a bit in this case. i would want to be able to move the casing to the cable about 3/8 of an inch. If you can't tell if the slide is bottoming for sure, remove the carburetor hold it where you can see it and work the cable. You don't mention if you removed anything else, as in the carburetor itself.
If the throttle tube is what you replaced make sure the cam on the throttle tube is the same as what you had replaced. And welcome to the forum Tom.
Make sure the throttle tube is not sticking on the handle bars. If the tube was pushed too far on to the bars it can catch on the end of the handle bar. Loosen it up and move it out about 1/8" and see if works better. Also if you replaced the cable, then you may have it routed incorrectly or have a zip tie too tight on it causing it to stick.
Paw Paw
Paw Paw
or....the slide did not seat and is hung up in the carb. Open n close the throttle and listen for the slide to clunk as it hits bottom-similar to the above about having slack in the cable will also be a sign of this
Thnks for all the replies! So all I did was replace the throttle housing. I simply got a new one and put it on, as soon as I started it, it was almost redlining itself. I should also mention that the throttle housing came with the clamp that goes on the handlebars, and the tube.
OK, what was the housing intended for? IE is it a suzuki part made for that model. I mentioned play in the cable, ie have you got any play in the cable. (I don't care if you are out of adjustment or not.)
If you simply took an accessory throttle control and put it onto the end of your existing cable, you probably need to get the proper cable. Listen for the clunk, or just remove the carburetor and observe it's operation. A very small opening will allow one to rev really high.
If you simply took an accessory throttle control and put it onto the end of your existing cable, you probably need to get the proper cable. Listen for the clunk, or just remove the carburetor and observe it's operation. A very small opening will allow one to rev really high.
So the one I had was broken but still operable, so I replaced it. I had two options at the store and although the one I bought was considered "cr style" it was an exact replica of the one that was on there. Since I bought it used already, I wasn't sure if he tuned it to the throttle he had put on there. As for cable, it seemed not any looser then it should be. Now is it possible that he turned the idle so high to compensate and now since it's a new throttle that it just needs to be turned down ?
what you need to do is start at ground zero, and get familiar with all of it. you didn't actually answer the question on play, and my suggestion that you have at least 3/8's of an inch of it to go trouble shooting. if you have never heard it run before you replaced the part, it is DOUBLY important that you make sure that the slide is bottoming before you go ANY further. you may need to take the carburetor off and check it while you hold it in your hand and watch. None of this is time consuming, and none of it requires special tools. I would consider it a pretty light job on the grand scheme. Just note for beginners, none of us mind handing out advice, we do like seeing an attempt to apply it.
I hope you get to ride it today.
I hope you get to ride it today.
Ok so I have at least 3/8's to play with so I'm going to do tht, but I'm not sure what you mean by the slide bottoming ? I've also heard the bike run before replacing the part and it was idling fine.
Ok so the channel that it rides in, is on the actual throttle or the carb? I'm just confused bc I thought replacing the housing would be super easy and not really affect how it idles. Plus, it's not like the cable was overly loose and now tighter then ever since I replaced it. I literally thought you could do just a one for one swap.
tighter???! jeez. no wonder it's running away with itself. did you miss the part about how the cable is supposed to have PLAY in it! I am not sure where to start with you.
before you do another thing get an exploded view of your carburetor so you will at least know the parts we are talking about. if you can't find an online manual at least go somewhere like bikebandit.com and look. its never occurred to you that when you twist the throttle that you PULL the cable? and that pulling is making it go tighter? and that the end result is an accelerating engine?
Your supposition about the throttle being simple and easy is dead on. Like I said, a lightweight type of job. They hardly get simpler.
before you do another thing get an exploded view of your carburetor so you will at least know the parts we are talking about. if you can't find an online manual at least go somewhere like bikebandit.com and look. its never occurred to you that when you twist the throttle that you PULL the cable? and that pulling is making it go tighter? and that the end result is an accelerating engine?
Your supposition about the throttle being simple and easy is dead on. Like I said, a lightweight type of job. They hardly get simpler.
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No I'm saying that it's not like it was super lose before I replaced it and after I replaced it, that it's super tight. The tension/play is roughly the same before and after I replaced the throttle assembly.